My Dad took the lambda sensor out (the one above the cat???) and it seemed ok, but we thought there was only 1 sensor on it (thats what we were told)

Is the fan resistor on a fuse or need a replacement?

 

My mpi has two lambda probes so yours might too.

That's the wrong lambda probe. And you won't see an issue with the heating element.

The one above the cat would list in codes as "bank 1" not bank 2. Wrong one.

Edit: see later post, "sensor" not bank in sentence above

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

Here's a video guide to replacing the blower resistor...

 

I will have the wiring checked tomorrow and also try and take the oil pump off an see what happens from there.

Thank you everyone for your time.

 

I will post back when i have done the oil pump and let you know how it went and if anything has happened (flashing warning lights staying on or going off)

 

Thank you once again for your time.

The one above the cat would list in codes as "bank 1" not bank 2. Wrong one.

Only one bank. Sensors will be 'bank 1 sensor 1' (pre cat) and 'bank 1 sensor 2' post cat.

Sorry my bad, knew they were labelled 1 and 2, been a while since I saw those codes :/

Techie, TMB and Wino on the thread at the same time you got the A team tonight.

Edited 21 March, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

You forgot yourself Peter.

Pfft, I've only owned two Fabias I defer to the techs

You forgot yourself Peter.

 

Was going to say that too

The fault codes remain the same regardless of engine configuration. When the engine is in a V configuration bank 2 is the other side.

The fault codes remain the same regardless of engine configuration. When the engine is in a V configuration bank 2 is the other side.

Knew the codes were standardised, but the V bank thing was news. Learn something new every day. Shame not a lot of V6s pass through my household

Just wait until you get to W engines lol

The flashing oil light might be a faulty oil pressure switch (or its wiring).

I agree with this, I've got a 1.4mpi 8v estate and the oil light did the same, changed the sensor and its been fine ever since, and that's with a bodge job because the connector plug snapped

Just wait until you get to W engines lol

 

It's still only a V, bank 1 and bank 2, no banks 3 and 4, crummy head design, only any good for forced induction really. Gimmicky packaging constraints.

It's still only a V, bank 1 and bank 2, no banks 3 and 4, crummy head design, only any good for forced induction really. Gimmicky packaging constraints.

I know there isn't bank 3-4. I just meant up to 8 probes to puzzle over and on the back ones normally the engine has to come out.

Well just a quick update.

I have removed the oil sump (no easy task as the previous owner had sealed it with silicone rather than gasket sealant), got to the strainer and took that off with the gear cover, there is supposed to be a gasket there but has been taken out and now trying to find one, not even Skoda themselves sell the gasket alone, been told ive got to buy the strainer and cover all together.

If i need a new oil pump, Skoda have discontinued that line and cant be bought as a full unit, all needs to be bought as seperate pieces.

Does anybody have an idea of where i could find this gasket, It is the gasket between the gear cover and the gears.

I am struggling to have any joy, or even where i can buy a new oil pump instead and just replace it all without it costing me massive amounts.

Going to speak to an auto electrician at some point to see if i can have that checked to make sure it isnt the wiring.

Why not mount a oil pressure meter? That says a lot. In my sons Volvo PV:

Can i get an oil pressure meter from any car spares shop or is it a specialist part?

How can i check if the oil pump is working? I have heard that i can test it by putting everything back together and filling the engine with oil and then removing the rocker cover and turning the engine on an seeing if the oil comes to the top (covers me in oil), is this true?

 

I want to try everything to see if it works before replacing it.

 

How much would someone pay to have the electrics checked to the oil pressure sensor?

Is it quite expensive or should it be reasonably price?

You have to check the pressure regulator, I think. Normally it is inside the oil pump. In some other engines, eks. that in the youtube film, it is separate.

 

If that fasten in bottom position you can not get pressure from idling to 1500 - 2000 r/min. 

An oil pressure meter you can by many places - and the fitness is normally standard. Im not sure about the treads, but I think it is 3/8 UNF? or close...?

May be it is metric on that car? An engine workshop can tell i think.

got to the strainer and took that off with the gear cover, there is supposed to be a gasket there but has been taken out and now trying to find one,

 

Pretty sure there is not supposed to be a gasket there! Just metal to metal. Will double check that out for you....

No gasket...

 

From what I can gather, a gasket is only ever fitted if there is insufficient endfloat on the oil pump gears.

 

9?

Does this tell anything?

Wiredsoftware asked this earlier; but it's not clear to me that it was answered.

This 'oil warning light', what does it look like? Definitely a red picture of an oil can with a drip falling out of the spout?

 

I think checking the wire to the oil pressure switch is as simple as looking for volts at the connector when disconnected, with engine running (at more than 1500rpm), but will test this myself in a bit and confirm.