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USB WIFI - Adapters

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I used one of those on an old laptop when the built in WiFi failed. It worked better than the built in one ever did.

Another vote for power line if you can't run Ethernet cable.

It's surprising how many niggly little issues have disappeared since we knocked lots of holes in the walls and ran network into every room that needed it.

Granted not what most people want to have to do ;)

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Not something i'd be able to do either as I'm renting my place.

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Powerline are ok.  It drops every now and again, so I just powercycle them. Enough to stream netflix etc. They are a set of tp link ones. I forget the model, not the cheapest, not the most expensive.

 

 

I've got the drill bit for a 2' wall... just not got SWMBO clearance for making a mess.

I've used Develo 200 units when I can't run cables (link to the garage), but where ever possible I run in a couple of lengths of cat 5e to each room (easy when when renovating), coupled with a cheapish rack mount 24port gig switch in the loft.

It really depends on how good the signal from the BT box is at the location you intend to have the new PC. I have a similar one I bought as an emergency replacement, which gave me barely 36Mbps throughput on a router capable of 300Mbps; the problem is that there is no room for a decent antenna.

 

For less money (but much longer delivery - from AliExpress), I got an "EDUP" USB dongle, 2 x ~8" antenna and a 1m extension cable; in exactly the same position as the tiny TLPlink, it gets 224Mbps throughput. If you go down this route, DO NOT use the supplied software driver - it is carp, let Windows detect and install a generic one.

 

Dont get me wrong, I love TPL stuff, my Fibre router is a TPL, but all of those tiny dongles have the same problem, no antenna.

 

Neither are as good as the old TPL PCI card though, before it died it ran at the full 300Mbps (with 12" antenna added to replace the originals).

I've that USB adapter -it's OK but needs a strong WiFi signal. I would go for a powerline adapters as well.

Powerline are ok.  It drops every now and again, so I just powercycle them. Enough to stream netflix etc. They are a set of tp link ones. I forget the model, not the cheapest, not the most expensive.

 

 

I've got the drill bit for a 2' wall... just not got SWMBO clearance for making a mess.

 

The PITA I find is that it's always the adapter on the router that flakes out. I only have one plug there so I use a pass-through adapter and I have to power cycle the router as well. Takes 5min to come back up.

Powerline are ok.  It drops every now and again, so I just powercycle them. Enough to stream netflix etc. They are a set of tp link ones. I forget the model, not the cheapest, not the most expensive.

 

I get exactly the same issue with TP link ones. Good for 30 mins - few hours then it drops out for maybe 30 seconds. Though mine comes back by itself after.

I get exactly the same issue with TP link ones. Good for 30 mins - few hours then it drops out for maybe 30 seconds. Though mine comes back by itself after.

 

I find if I disable then enable the ethernet on the PC it'll usually sort itself out. But every so often I have to switch off the one at the router.

Not something i'd be able to do either as I'm renting my place.

Ask your Landlord if he has 'Direct Line' insurance.

 

If he does, and you want holes in your wall, I can help :wall: . Lol.

 

Disclaimer.....Other insurance companies are available. :giggle: .

Question is Where is the BT master socket. Does the master split the line and BB, or is a filter involved,  and if so, can you route the 2w line from bedroom over ( the presumed internal house wiring ) to downstairs. My last BT BB had/has the BT master in the lounge downstairs, with my PC upstairs in a spare bedroom. My solution- route the landline from BT master using two wires in the house cabling direct ( without wiring passing in contact with a phone socket) to a slave socket in the PC room. Fit a filter and split BB from phone line. BB to close by PC, and phone line to a master socket and hence to the other phone sockets ( all slaves) in the house.

 

(other variations are possible, such as if phone line enters down stairs, then master socket "could" be relocated closer to downstairs PC. )

Edited by VWD

If you aren't overly fussed on speed; you can tether your laptop to your phone, disable mobile data, turn on wifi and use your phone as a dongle.

If you aren't overly fussed on speed; you can tether your laptop to your phone, disable mobile data, turn on wifi and use your phone as a dongle.

 

Good idea, it doesnt work with all phones and OS options though, as I found on my first trip to China. My current phone wont talk to my PC after the latest OS update, a bug unfixed since early January, although it still shows up as a MSD.

Why wouldn't you install on motherboard with an external aerial?

Get an app on your phone that shows wifi signal info and put your phone where the PC is going to go. It will give you a rough idea of how strong the signal is there.

 

If it's pretty strong then that adapter will be fine. If it's on the weak side you can get other USB adapters with external antennas on that may be better.

 

Also what are you intending on using the PC for?

 

If it's just streaming videos etc then I can highly recommend an Amazon Fire TV (4k).

 

It has built in wifi (dual band) and you can install Kodi (media centre software) on it that will stream any video file your throw at it and even capable of decoding ultra HD 4k stuff too.

 

I've also signed up to Netflix and their 4k content is very impressive and the wifi is plenty fast enough to cope with it (Virgin super hub with 70mb broadband).

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