So this happened after the last oil change. I tried using 5W40, instead of 10W40. There are no bubbles in the expansion tank with a hot engine and the cap off. Well, not at idle at least, I couldn't rev the engine by myself. I already ordered a k seal bottle of 236ml since I already have a radiator leak. I am not sure if I want to take the engine apart though. A rebuild head might never be the same as before ever. I could buy a new head, but I don't know what else this would mean. A new engine would be ideal, but it's not the time now. Do I risk anything if I run it like this as usual?

I'd like to think that my car was well looked after, but it's 16 years old with 130k on the clock.

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You will probably find if the head was removed that it's corroded to the point the gasket can no longer seal. Just a guess, but an educated one.

Risk wise emulsified coolant obv won't cool correctly.

You make a good point. I will take it apart as soon as I will can. Should I try to rebuild the head or go straight to replacing it?

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Depends on what you find when its taken off. A second hand head may well end up being in a worse state.

And so it begins

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I wouldnt replace the engine becaue it needs a head gasket.

The new engine could need a head gasket after 500 miles... 

Bad news: 

 

You cant fix it from your computer, get the spanners out!!

The car is (temporary) in good shape. There are no bubbles in the expansion tank, the oil level is stable, so is the coolant level. Since the tolerance is tight, I have my doubts on taking the engine apart. I'll just replace the coolant and oil (for my mental peace) and I hope everything will stay clean.

Be aware that there is loose cylinders on this engine. Get or create two metal pieces of flat iron, about 12 - 14 mm holes for bolts to ensure that no cylinder can move  up. You must not rotate the engine without having some holder for the cylinders, so they can't move upward. - Follow with pistons. otherwise, it may be leak in the bottom of the cylinders and coolant leak into the sump. If you put them right it is enough with two that hold two cylinders each.

Edited 7 April, 201610 yr by Torbo

The leak isn't around the cylinder's area, it's somewhere near oil/coolant ports . It's only allowing oil to get into coolant. It's not good, I might have to replace a few rubber pipes if oil did it's job and corroded something in it's way, but I'm safe and the engine is running good. I'm going to replace the HG next weekend though.

Live

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Ooh, not too much oil-change love lavished on that in its past.

I replaced the oil each 6000miles or 6 months. I can't tell how she has been treated by the previous owner.

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Good news: I will need a new cylinder head.

P.S.: what else will I need to order now? Valves? Guides?

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Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by Alexandru

What has happened to this head?

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Good news are that valves, pistons and spark plugs are looking uber good. It is a great engine, it does show it's age but ... it worths each and every spent penny.

Is there anything else I should take care of since I have it like a Lego at this moment?

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Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by Alexandru

What has happened to this head?

 

A LOT of running without enough/any corrosion inhibitor.

Alex, don't turn the engine without some bolts and washers to hold the cylinder liners down as they may dislodge otherwise.

I would cut the top cover 0.5 - 0,7 mm - planed it, 

It is probably enough to seal tightly round cylinder.

Corrosion beside the bolts is no problem I think. 

I would also take out some aluminum around the intake valves, if you are afraid of to high compression.

Not nessesary I think, but.... 

 

My be get a head from a used engine. 

 

If you use 50/50 coolant mixture then its is not any problem with corrosion, anyway.

Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by Torbo

Here is a nice head from one af my engines :

More space around the valves an planned 2.5 mm. More flow an more power...

And with a 285 degrees cam, huge racing valves and some other thing it worked well. 

Just a example. 

 

You can probably take ut to 1 mm, but then you have to take some material off around the valves. 

Or use 98 octane, if that exist now where you are?

Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by Torbo

It seems that the valves has lived a good life. I would only grind them, or my be changed the valve guides if then engine has gone more than 200 000 km.

I you cam move the valves 0,15 - 0,2 mm sideways you "most" change guides. 

Change valve seals is always a goo idea. Most important! 

It is also a good aiea to check the valve clearance  after grinding. 

The manual says 0,2 mm, I use 0,3 mm and let the adjuster take the rest. No sound with that.

Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by Torbo