How difficult is it to do a full brake and clutch flush and fresh fluid.

A think mines well over due a fluid change that's all thanks

Not difficult at all.

Not difficult at all.

As long as the bleed nipples haven't bloody welded themselves into the caliper. Serviced mine earlier in the week and went to do a brake fluid change. Fronts no problem at all, went to the rear and absolutely no way are either bleed nipple going to open. Got an 11mm flare spanner on order and will try and undo the hard pipe that comes into the caliper and do it that way (figure I should be ok with a pressure bleeder). If that doesn't look like it's going to work (the hard pipe is well known to shear off rather than undo on these) then I'm basically screwed as far as doing a brake fluid change.

Did u not need vcds to open the abs up to bleed them

Did u not need vcds to open the abs up to bleed them

No.

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Good so there's noneed for computer just pressure bleed in the correct order and all done.

Nope. You only need VCDS if the system is empty.

Best bit of kit I bought.

That's what ave got thanks.

Silly question but do a not need to drain the hole system of the old fluid first before a put new fluid in.

No, don't do that will create no end of problems.

Cheers just thought a would ask .

So basically just push new stuff through

Yup

That's what ave got thanks.

Silly question but do a not need to drain the hole system of the old fluid first before a put new fluid in.

Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir first and top up with fresh, otherwise your going to be pushing a mixture of new and old brake fluid through the lines

Always work furthest from brake reservoir and you will see the clean fluid come through your bleed pipe, so long as it is bubble free close the nipple and move onto the next one.

Hatchy, you will struggle attempting it that way. If you haven't rounded the bleed nipples off put a flat sided (not a mutli point) socket on and use that.

I always apply a spot of penetrating oil to the nipples before I start.

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Edited 2 April, 201610 yr by trundlenut

Thanks for the replys

Always work furthest from brake reservoir and you will see the clean fluid come through your bleed pipe, so long as it is bubble free close the nipple and move onto the next one.

Hatchy, you will struggle attempting it that way. If you haven't rounded the bleed nipples off put a flat sided (not a mutli point) socket on and use that.

According to Haynes, on the mk II you start at the left front,right front then go to rear in the same order. Been there already with the six point socket on the bleed nipple and applied way more more force than I was comfortable with,I know where it was going to end and that is even after giving it a good few hours soak with Plusgas. It is a stupid design where they have the bleed nipple as you can't get a wire brush in there to give it a good scrub.

Interesting, I've never had a car that is specified in a different order. You normally start furthest away as that uses the most fluid flushing the reservoir of old and replacing with new. Never had issue with Haynes either. Just googled the sequence on the Golf and that specifies it as shortest route to longest starting at clutch and finish rear right too.

Try again but with some heat around the bleed nipple.

Excellent thanks as long as a don't need no computers to do this little operation.

So to flush out all the old fluid basically is

Symphon brake reservoir

Top up fresh fluid

Bleed clutch then wheels obviously in sequence.

Edited 3 April, 201610 yr by Taximan1978

Did u not need vcds to open the abs up to bleed them

Only if you've let air into the system.

 

It's good practice to cycle the ABS on a closed system occasionally (to freshen the brake fluid in the ABS block) but not essential.

For the confirmation of the untypical bleeding order, see also: the Mk 2 Haynes Manual and a detailed post on the subject dated 2010 on this forum (it lacks the source, though).

Can anyone pls. comment on using the partial stroke while pedal-bleeding, in order to preserve the integrity of seals along the unused/corroded part of the master cylinder?

Has anyone got a photo of the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and a description of access for the 2.0 TDI engine?

Edited 15 April, 201610 yr by zzonyx

I always apply a spot of penetrating oil to the nipples before I start.

 

What about the car?

 

Can anyone pls. comment on using the partial stroke while pedal-bleeding, in order to preserve the integrity of seals along the unused/corroded part of the master cylinder?

 

Indeed, you shouldn't bottom the pedal. During my first year in the trade I changed a few master cylinders for free before somebody pointed out what the issue was. 

 

It's probably not as bad now as most cars get the fluid changed every 2 years and there is less likelihood of corrosion.  Back then we only changed the fluid if a part was replaced.

Indeed, you shouldn't bottom the pedal. During my first year in the trade I changed a few master cylinders for free before somebody pointed out what the issue was. 

 

It's probably not as bad now as most cars get the fluid changed every 2 years and there is less likelihood of corrosion.  Back then we only changed the fluid if a part was replaced.

Thank you brad1.8T, your feedback is invaluable because from your own experience and based on sound reasoning. The second sentence makes a lot of sense, too.

I'll make that part of my procedures from now on. One can always learn something new - Haynes might take a note or two, too...

Best bit of kit I bought.

 

 

I did mine with this,fiddly but do-able.12psi i used worked a treat.If your changing a caliper put a bag over filler hole and pop the cap back on.It hold's brake fluid in the pipe.

Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by vrsRo55