Hi guys, my vrs gets used 7 days a week so really need, but tonight on the way home from work it developed a lack of power and a misfire. A few weeks ago it had a eml on and a misfire, a quick change of all four coil packs and plugs everything was ok. This time it has no eml on just a lack of power and a misfire. Can somebody give a clue on were to start, as the coils and plugs would be normally were I would start but have been done.

Scan it. Could be lots of things. Would be tempted to try unplugging the MAF though, it's free and if it runs smooth (although it will be a bit less spritely than normal as ecu will go to a default reading) then it's highly likely that's your issue.

How is the temp gauge reading and cold start? Anything weird going on there?

I am just in the process of installing vcds on my laptop, so that will be the first thing I will do once it's complete. Will have to wait till its cooled down to start from cold to look at the temp gauge as it's not been stood that long yet. I will scan it first and then try taking out the maf. Are these common for the maf, not really read much about them being faulty. Cheers for the response yellowcar

No worries, yes MAF is a reasonably common issue, especially if ever replaced with a non gen one at any point. These cars are so dependent on air being accurately measured even slightly iffy readings of a maf will cause issues.

Reason I ask about temps is that the coolant temp sensor is another common one which can lead to incorrect fueling, hence running issues. A scan should tell you what you need to know or at least get you on the right path. I'm not exactly a whizz with logging but there are a few here good at interpreting data. Will help where I can though, let us know how you get on.

Thanks again. Well at the min I am smashing my head against the wall trying to install this vcds lite. Installed the software ok but can't my laptop can't get the drivers for the obd cable. Looks like a taxi to work in the morning as I don't want to drive it with a misfire, could cause more damage than is already. Awesome.

Well sorted the laptop out ☺ a few codes relating to misfire on cylinder 2 and an open circuit on cylinder 2, which I asume will be relating to the coils that I have replaced seeing as I didn't clear the codes from when the eml was on. Cleared the codes and started and now its missing all the time on tick over and smells very fuely (if that's a word) from cold. Temp gauge seems as normal but didn't want to run it too long. Will have to wait till I finish work tomorrow now to faff around with the maf. **** me why does everything go wrong at once.

Oh forgot to add, no codes came back on second scan after starting and clearing the codes

I know you've already replaced them, but I gotta say, my money's on coilpacks. That's exactly what I get on my vcds lite when I have a failed coilpack (at least once a year I reckon...and that's with genuine parts)

 

Did you replace for new? What brand / where from?

 

Wouldn't be the first time an electronic bit is faulty from the box...

It could be a air leak. A pipe on mine under the inlet manifold split and it misfired like a b17ch. Worth a look.

I replaced with new ray a full set of lucks ones. The more I think about it, the way it went I am hoping it's a hose.... but finding it may be a issue as you all now (space) will have to put all jobs off tomorrow and spend some time on this. Gutted cos the man cave is nearly built (another project that is on the go at the min)

Lucus ones. Sorry predictive tablet fault

Thanks for that Lee, will have to dig around

Which pipe went on yours Lee.

I'm with Ray it still sounds like coil packs now, it's not beyond the realms of possibility that even new ones play up, especially non genuine. How's the wiring loom for the coils? Worth checking that for fatigue. Going by what you've said I don't think it's MAF related, still keep it in mind though.

Air leak as mentioned would cause a jumpy idle, always worth checking pipework as a matter of course. Somethings not sparking right though, hence the unburned fuel.

Edited 20 April, 201610 yr by YellowCar

Which pipe went on yours Lee.

It's a "S" shaped pipe that runs to the inlet manifold. It's just like a thick vac line. A bit fiddly but easy manageable.

Cheers Lee. After spending a full day at work yesterday and a very expensive taxi ride, I managed to have a mess around and to my disbelief it turns out it was a faulty coil pack, luckely I didn't through my old ones out and numbered them when I took them out as I didn't have vcds then. Can't belive that in 2 weeks the coil had failed, and it was number 4 that's under that box thing. Anyway it's still not running 100% but is running now so will have a good route around all pipes at the weekend.

Thanks you guys for the help again a bunch of top people on here always willing to help cheers peeps

Glad you're getting there. Coil packs are a funny thing, for such a vital part their quality is very hit and miss even with genuine ones. I did however have some Beru ones in my Toledo for over a year with no issues, probably just lucky. Anything ignition related I always go genuine now. In the Saab I had it runs a direct ignition cartridge with all the packs built in, and it uses the spark plugs as sensors so there is a pressing need there to use the specific NGK ones with the correct gap...just as an example.

I have Beru coilpacks in my octy and they've been brilliant. 

If your coilpacks are still oem ones, rather than aftermarket replacements, then you may still be eligible for the coilpack recall at your local skoda dealer.

 

In which case, put the coilpacks that you have in to get you near to the garage, then swop them out round the corner for the faulty oem ones and get your nice shiney new set through the recall campaign.

Edited 21 April, 201610 yr by kentphil1