Elegance 2.0i 111,000 miles - what can go wrong?

[Mike Austin]

Bought from new, 11 years old and 111,000 miles, no major problems over the years. It is due for cam belt / water pump replacement costing about £450. Is it worth it? What else is likely to go wrong soon? Would like to keep if not too much of a gamble. Newish VW Polo is my other option as Mk3 Fabia is too big for garage (and slightly smaller on inside).

[sepulchrave]

The engine and gearbox are very reliable, £450 for the belt and pump change is much too expensive, shop around you should be able to get it done for less than half that price, there's nothing tricky about the job and the parts are cheap.

[Mike Austin]

The engine and gearbox are very reliable, £450 for the belt and pump change is much too expensive, shop around you should be able to get it done for less than half that price, there's nothing tricky about the job and the parts are cheap.

Thanks. At the fourth service in 2009, the dealer included a new cam belt (at only 44,000 miles!) at the total cost of £448. I go local now, so I should expect less. Repairs and maintenance over the 11 years and 111,000 miles has only been £2000, which I think is good. Here are my running costs:

 

I am just aware that the repair costs could begin to tilt upwards at this sort of mileage.

[sepulchrave]

Certainly there are components which fail, alternators, starter motors, radiators etc. but these repairs are inexpensive compared to the depreciation alone you'll suffer on a newer car, if your Fabia has been regularly serviced and is in good condition then you have no reason to change it for at least another three to five years. Fabias don't rot out and the drivetrain in the 2.0 is particularly reliable, don't let the service schedule slip though, it's a very common mistake to cut corners on maintaining higher mileage cars because the costs are high compared to the market value, instead value the utility and the savings you continue to make by not buying a much more expensive newer car. Remember that annual service costs are very similar whether a car is 5 years old or 15 years old. MOT reports are a far better indicator of a cars condition than mileage or age.

[Breezy_Pete]

I'd agree with the above, new cars are for those who value appearance over utility.

 

If it hasn't already failed, the motor that moves the recirculation flap (or more exactly, the potentiometer associated with the motor) will probably fail soon.  In practice, this is not really noticeable as long as it doesn't fail stuck in the recirculating position, but that could easily be overcome.  The gimmick of it closing to outside air every time reverse is selected was not accompanied by a robust enough motor/pot unit when designed.  Unless you drive past a pig farm on a regular basis, I don't think it's worth mending.

 

If they haven't already been (well) repaired, some or all of the door carrier seals will probably need attention to keep the interior from being gradually filled with rainwater. 

 

Console bushes are probably overdue replacement if original (unlikely).

[Mike Austin]

I'd agree with the above, new cars are for those who value appearance over utility.

 

If it hasn't already failed, the motor that moves the recirculation flap (or more exactly, the potentiometer associated with the motor) will probably fail soon.  In practice, this is not really noticeable as long as it doesn't fail stuck in the recirculating position, but that could easily be overcome.  The gimmick of it closing to outside air every time reverse is selected was not accompanied by a robust enough motor/pot unit when designed.  Unless you drive past a pig farm on a regular basis, I don't think it's worth mending.

 

If they haven't already been (well) repaired, some or all of the door carrier seals will probably need attention to keep the interior from being gradually filled with rainwater. 

 

Console bushes are probably overdue replacement if original (unlikely).

I think the recirculation flap sticks from time to time - but not a problem. I have no leaks in the car as far as I can see. Console bushes were replaced at 73,000 miles. I have my second new heater resistor pack to fit (the previous one failed on fan speed 1 after two years). So, fit a new cam belt / water pump and roll on the next 111, 000 miles then?

[sepulchrave]

I think the recirculation flap sticks from time to time - but not a problem. I have no leaks in the car as far as I can see. Console bushes were replaced at 73,000 miles. I have my second new heater resistor pack to fit (the previous one failed on fan speed 1 after two years). So, fit a new cam belt / water pump and roll on the next 111, 000 miles then?

 

Let's say five years, you'll definitely have had your money's worth by then and the MOT will start to get harder to pass each year much past that.

[poiuytre111]

Certainly there are components which fail, alternators, starter motors, radiators etc. but these repairs are inexpensive compared to the depreciation alone you'll suffer on a newer car, if your Fabia has been regularly serviced and is in good condition then you have no reason to change it for at least another three to five years. Fabias don't rot out and the drivetrain in the 2.0 is particularly reliable, don't let the service schedule slip though, it's a very common mistake to cut corners on maintaining higher mileage cars because the costs are high compared to the market value, instead value the utility and the savings you continue to make by not buying a much more expensive newer car. Remember that annual service costs are very similar whether a car is 5 years old or 15 years old. MOT reports are a far better indicator of a cars condition than mileage or age.

In another post I referred to this particularly well documented car   http://www.briskoda....ng-costs/page-2  post number 46 & 50. In this case it might have been cheaper to buy a new car at 110k miles and again at 200+

I accept that the car that is the subject of this thread has a more reliable gearbox.

[Mike Austin]

In another post I referred to this particularly well documented car   http://www.briskoda....ng-costs/page-2  post number 46 & 50. In this case it might have been cheaper to buy a new car at 110k miles and again at 200+

I accept that the car that is the subject of this thread has a more reliable gearbox.

Yes, I had seen that. I have just put Nigel's SDi in graph form:

 

He has a better average per mile cost (3.8p vs my 5.1p), but it is shooting up after 240,000 mile (9.0p vs my 6.7p). So I had better start watching out after the next 129,000 miles!

[del-gti]

I'd agree with the above, new cars are for those who value appearance over utility.

Well that's a silly comment! If people didn't buy new cars how would second-hand ones become available? Also, the OP bought the car from new!

Anyway, back to the original question. I asked myself the same one just a few weeks ago. My 2006 1.9tdi was approaching 108,000 miles and a timing belt change. I was wondering if I should get rid and go for something new or newer. Not sure if you'd call the diesel engine a bit more complex compared to the to the 2.0i petrol but it does have a turbo, dmf, egr valve etc to contend with, so those were the sort of things I was concerned about.

Other things I thought about were more general stuff - rotten exhaust, worn shocks, bushes, brakes (handbrake cables in my case), clutch etc and rust, as has recently been mentioned in another post.

I ended up getting the timing belt, water pump etc changed (£260 btw, so your quote does seem pricey) and I'm going to keep it. Hopefully for about another two years. I'm just gonna keep on top of the maintenance and try and keep it in tip-top condition. If I was you I'd do the same.

Hope that helps.

[Breezy_Pete]

Fair cop!

[poiuytre111]

I'd agree with the above, new cars are for those who value appearance over utility.

 

If it hasn't already failed, the motor that moves the recirculation flap (or more exactly, the potentiometer associated with the motor) will probably fail soon.  In practice, this is not really noticeable as long as it doesn't fail stuck in the recirculating position, but that could easily be overcome.  The gimmick of it closing to outside air every time reverse is selected was not accompanied by a robust enough motor/pot unit when designed.  Unless you drive past a pig farm on a regular basis, I don't think it's worth mending.

 

If they haven't already been (well) repaired, some or all of the door carrier seals will probably need attention to keep the interior from being gradually filled with rainwater. 

 

Console bushes are probably overdue replacement if original (unlikely).

I would say that new cars may be cost effective for those who get all their maintenance done at a main dealer or similarly priced specialist and that running a high mileage car "cost effectively" requires some diy skills, luck and the use of fora such as this to keep the bills low.

[Mike Austin]

I just had cam belt, water pump and alternator belt fitted plus a service at my local garage (non-dealership). Parts £222.38, labour £260 plus VAT - total £574. I asked for the old belts and pump, just out of interest. There was no noticeable waer on cam belt or pump. The bearings were not loose and the blades were not pitted. The alternator belt had a cut across most of the ridges, but it looks like damage caused when removing it.

The car has done 111,460 miles. The last cam belt replacement was by the dealer at 44,000 (probably much too soon). The lack of any signs of wear indicates to me that these cam belts are durable and long lasting.

[sepulchrave]

I just had cam belt, water pump and alternator belt fitted plus a service at my local garage (non-dealership). Parts £222.38, labour £260 plus VAT - total £574. I asked for the old belts and pump, just out of interest. There was no noticeable waer on cam belt or pump. The bearings were not loose and the blades were not pitted. The alternator belt had a cut across most of the ridges, but it looks like damage caused when removing it.

The car has done 111,460 miles. The last cam belt replacement was by the dealer at 44,000 (probably much too soon). The lack of any signs of wear indicates to me that these cam belts are durable and long lasting.

 

The whole car is durable and long-lasting compared to many other makes and models.