Hi, 

 

Can anyone tell me if these are good results?  The VW documentation says between 11 and 14 bar, which is 161psi and 206psi respectively.  On my dry tests, I 'scored' 162/162/165/165, and on the wet tests, I got 175/170/170/172.  This is not 100% accurate as it was hard to guage exactly what the needle was saying but it gives a good indication.  

 

Are those figures acceptable for a 70k mile 2.0TSI engine?

 

11 bar is 159.5 psi. 14 bar is 203 psi.

Your results are within spec. What more do you want?

Edited 16 May, 201610 yr by xman

They look pretty even. No faults to show id say. What is the problem to make you do a compression test ?

I thought initially that I was going through oil very quickly, and with all the pistons/rings issues with the early TSIs I got myself all worked up.

I still have an issue somewhere though, either with oil sensor or a pipe, as my oil light came on again tonight when I reconnected the batter. Again, the level is fine, bang on the max line...

What colour is it, yellow or red? (The light, not the car).

Silver :P

Yellow light, wavey line underneath. It's definitely oil level, according to the manual anyway. It behaves like the manual says. It's not flashing so it doesn't suggest sensor in the sump, but it could be. I've been driving without the under tray for about 2 months so it's not impossible that it's been knocked. I'll get under and check tomorrow night. I'm just worried it's more than a sensor as I'm doing 10 miles a day...

How much oil are you using to miles ? Any sign of blue smoke on start up or when driving ?

Have you had an oil change recently? Maybe the sensor hasn't reset if you replaced the oil.

If not, you can check the connection under the sump, undo it and reconnect. It should reset.

I reckon its the sensor if it doesn't go out. Can you clear the code? If not, just change the sensor.

Last check, the bonnet switch recognises the bonnet is shut right?

How much oil are you using to miles ? Any sign of blue smoke on start up or when driving ?

I can't answer that yet, as I'm currently documenting that. I carefully got it to the max line and noted the mileage, 70056.  I'm currently on about 70220 or something, so I want to do another 800 miles or so so that I can say it's used x amount of mls in in 1000miles.  

 

Have you had an oil change recently? Maybe the sensor hasn't reset if you replaced the oil.

If not, you can check the connection under the sump, undo it and reconnect. It should reset.

I reckon its the sensor if it doesn't go out. Can you clear the code? If not, just change the sensor.

Last check, the bonnet switch recognises the bonnet is shut right?

 

Not a change, but a while back I did have an oil leak from the sump bolt.  Turns out that a garage didn't understand torque ratings, so they've over tightened it and stripped the threads. We had the oil out so we could inspect it but I didn't have new oil on hand so we had to run it back into the car through a filter. The oil was pretty fresh anyway, as it had been changed only 4 months earlier and I'd had to top it up a couple of times due to the leak.

 

Regarding the sensor, I'm going to check it tonight as it's not impossible that's it's been knocked.  There is no code, even when the light is on the dash (solid amber).  Yeah, as far as I can tell the bonnet switch is working.  As suggested in my other thread, I checked the wipers (I already knew they're working thanks too all the pollen about) and they're fine. Also, if turn the engine off, take out the key, open the bonnet and leave it open for >30s, the light goes out.  It will however, come back on next time I disconnect the battery, and presumbaly again in 100Km it it doesn't recognise an increase in oil level.   

 

Is it possible that it is slight overfilled? Would that trigger the same light?

Very little difference between test readings, which is all very good for any engine..no sign of the cylinder head gasket blown.

So if you are physically losing oil,  you should be able to spot it weeping out somewhere, I can say you are not losing oil through the cylinder bores. 

Suggest keep an eye on oil level, and make a note as you are, of mileage and the amount of oil loss..

 

Sensors can be a real pain, as one sensor or poor connection in the wiring, can easily trigger a fault somewhere else..

An auto electrician is the way to go is my suggestion, rather than hopefully guessing..

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by giandougl

I don't think there is a light for overfilling. I think your sensor has gone. From the sounds of it, it is acting up and not taking a correct reading. The only other thing now would be a low level only in that region and I think that's just being silly.

I would say clean the electrics contacts on the sensor plug. That's your best bet right now short of removing it entirely. You don't have an oil leak otherwise you'd notice it under your car. I doubt you're suddenly burning lots otherwise you'd smell it or see clear blue smoke out the tail. You know the level is physically good. Its the sensor.

PS maybr fit a quick drain valve? Now would be a good time if you remove your sensor. I have one on mine and it hasn't ever leaked. It will stop garages undoing and redoing the nut. You could add a little gasket paste to the face of drain where the valve meets the sump to take precaution.

Very little difference between test readings, which is all very good for any engine..no sign of the cylinder head gasket blown.

So if you are physically losing oil,  you should be able to spot it weeping out somewhere, I can say you are not losing oil through the cylinder bores. 

Suggest keep an eye on oil level, and make a note as you are, of mileage and the amount of oil loss..

 

Sensors can be a real pain, as one sensor or poor connection in the wiring, can easily trigger a fault somewhere else..

An auto electrician is the way to go is my suggestion, rather than hopefully guessing..

 

 

I don't think there is a light for overfilling. I think your sensor has gone. From the sounds of it, it is acting up and not taking a correct reading. The only other thing now would be a low level only in that region and I think that's just being silly.

I would say clean the electrics contacts on the sensor plug. That's your best bet right now short of removing it entirely. You don't have an oil leak otherwise you'd notice it under your car. I doubt you're suddenly burning lots otherwise you'd smell it or see clear blue smoke out the tail. You know the level is physically good. Its the sensor.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking/hoping; hopefully they're not too expensive.  There is steam coming out of the exhaust at idle, but it's just water vapour as best I can tell.  I've ran a rag round the tip of the exhaust and there's just water and carbon, no oil. I've never once seen a blue plume come out the car at start up or during a drive.  I won't really know how much oil I'm using until I hit 1000miles so I can properly get stats.

 

I'll get under the car tonight and clean the connector. I have some PCB cleaner spray - will that do? I'll get the car into the garage on Sat - I need to fit the sump pan anyway so I'll just ask them to do that, change the oil and check the sensor and replace if need be.

 

I'm confused becuase I as snooping through VCDS and I found a load of oil level figures, and the live level stat whilst the engine was idling at operating temp was 70mm which I think is correct for a full oil level?

Yeah I think Low Level is at 50mm, level at max with car off is about 75-76mm, level at engine on when fully topped up is 65-70mm.

 

What is strange is that the sensor is detecting the correct level yet it is giving the yellow light on the dash.

 

Use the cleaner, maybe with a couple of cotton buds to do it properly. We need to see what else can cause that light to come up. Has your oil pressure sensor been affected? Also in VCDS, is there a line showing the average oil level (oil level between 100km)?

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by UdayP

Yeah I think Low Level is at 50mm, level at max with car off is about 75-76mm, level at engine on when fully topped up is 65-70mm.

 

What is strange is that the sensor is detecting the correct level yet it is giving the yellow light on the dash.

 

Use the cleaner, maybe with a couple of cotton buds to do it properly. We need to see what else can cause that light to come up. Has your oil pressure sensor been affected?

 

I'm not entirely sure about the sensor itself, but I have never once see the red oil pressure light come on, and I've never seen a log/error on VCDS to suggest it's been on in the past.  What I'm worried about the most is that it could be a blocked pipe somewhere and oil flow is being affected. It's hard to tell, but my engine does seem noisier than normal, however it could be entirely in my head.  

 

I did an intake manifold replacement and valve carbon buildup removal about a month ago, but I was VERY careful with the hand tools, especially around the valves and valve stems. I don't think I did anything wrong, and I would like to think I would remember if I was heavy handed enough to damage a line anywhere...

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by planehazza

Can you give us a snapshot of the VCDS reading on the oil level stats please. Once when cold and once hot whilst running please? I'm wondering if it throws a yellow light if the oil level doesn't change when running as it reckons no oil is being picked up. Although the oil pressure sensor would typically pick this up.

Can you give us a snapshot of the VCDS reading on the oil level stats please. Once when cold and once hot whilst running please? I'm wondering if it throws a yellow light if the oil level doesn't change when running as it reckons no oil is being picked up. Although the oil pressure sensor would typically pick this up.

 

 

Will do mate. I'll take a reading tonight when I get in, then jack the car up to inspect the sensor. It'll be a few hours until I can take the cold reading.

 

I'm going to get the car in this weekend to have the new sump pan fitted so might be worth having them inspect the sensor properly too.

Right, car is booked in this weekend to have the pan fitted. I've asked them to look into this sensor issue, so there's £59 just to say there are no VCDS faults like I already know :( I'll do some fault print outs and take them with me.

Right, car is booked in this weekend to have the pan fitted. I've asked them to look into this sensor issue, so there's £59 just to say there are no VCDS faults like I already know :( I'll do some fault print outs and take them with me.

I'm glad you have stopped scaring yourself silly and booked the car in.

Give the garage as much detail as you can at that time, they are the right people to have a chat with about your problem..

I'm glad you have stopped scaring yourself silly and booked the car in.

Give the garage as much detail as you can at that time, they are the right people to have a chat with about your problem..

 

Yeah I totally agree, I just like to get as much info here as I can so I don't go in and say "it has an oil problem", mean while they're charging me £60 for every hour I could have spent here  At least now I can show them that there are no codes, the sensor appears to be fine and these are the reported oil levels from VCDS

Have you tried readapting the oil level sensor?

Have you tried readapting the oil level sensor?

Nope not heard of that before. Is it basically a case of retraining it?

Edit: reading up on it now. Basically coding it out and back in again I guess?

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by planehazza

Maybe you just access ch039 in instruments but don't take my word for it. It may be that when you adapt, it calibrates automatically based on the current oil level.

Perhaps you accidently triggered this when you coded your MFSW.

I don't think refilling it with oil drained into a pan was a very bright thing to do, possibity of grit and rubbish introduced and maybe some contamination got into the sensor.

You said you never seen the red oil pressure light. Not even before starting or after stalling the engine?

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by xman

Maybe you just access ch039 in instruments but don't take my word for it. It may be that when you adapt, it calibrates automatically based on the current oil level.

Perhaps you accidently triggered this when you coded your MFSW.

I don't think refilling it with oil drained into a pan was a very bright thing to do, possibity of grit and rubbish introduced and maybe some contamination got into the sensor.

You said you never seen the red oil pressure light. Not even before starting or after stalling the engine?

Understood, but it was a brand new, clean plastic canister. I rinsed it out thoroughly first to ensure there were no particles etc. I also had no choice as the leaking pan bolt was quite bad and I didn't have enough oil to do a change at the time. The sump pan, oil, and oil filter are all being changed on sat.

I'm not entirely sure how my coding could have affected it as I didn't go into the instruments section. The only thing that springs to mind isthat I reset the service indicator using vcds but that was weeks ago and I followed a guide - may have even been a Ross tech guide...

When I say I've never seen it, I meant that that light has never come on to indicate a fault. From, memory, it comes on when the dash does its test on ignition.

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by planehazza

Yeah I think Low Level is at 50mm, level at max with car off is about 75-76mm, level at engine on when fully topped up is 65-70mm.

 

What is strange is that the sensor is detecting the correct level yet it is giving the yellow light on the dash.

 

Use the cleaner, maybe with a couple of cotton buds to do it properly. We need to see what else can cause that light to come up. Has your oil pressure sensor been affected? Also in VCDS, is there a line showing the average oil level (oil level between 100km)?

 

OK, results are in after letting the engine cool this evening.

 

Engine off, and cold (well, 26C):

 

 

Engine running at idle, operating temp:

 

 

I had a snoop through the instruments adaptation section. It was getting dark and late, so I didn't go too far but I saw two items of interest:

 

ESI: Oil Quality

Poor Oil Quality

 

(3)0ESI: Code service interval extension-oil level

oil level evaluation

 

I'm entirely guessing, but I'd assume "Poor Oil Quality" refers to me not being on long life oil?

 

EDIT: The plot thickens. I wonder if I've perhaps chosen the wrong service indicator reset? Presumably I'm on fixed servicing, but when I used VCDS SRI it said my car did not support it, and I had to use 'ESI - resetting ESI' from the instruments adaptation page. I I wonder if my car is set for fixed servicing, but because I've used Extended Service Indicator (without knowing that's what ESI stood for at the time), I've got a wrong value somewhere...

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf/Golf_Plus_(5K/52)_Instrument_Cluster

 

Reading it suggests I've not quite set up the values for the service reminder, which might be why the light keeps coming on

Edited 17 May, 201610 yr by planehazza