Hi folks,

 

Im looking at a new headunit, I have a couple of questions I hope you can help with

 

How is the original headunit removed?

 

Do I need any extra leads bar what comes with the unit? (Looking at https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011SG09QO/ref=s9_simh_gw_g23_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=3YGA8KJSCPCBCT1M147G&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=26de8ef0-2ad7-412c-8634-6cd03b7b73e2&pf_rd_i=desktop)

 

I understand the aerial is amplified on the Octavia - how is this powered on the new one, do I need an amplifier?  Ive seen a few but what works best?

 

Cheers!

Edited 10 July, 20169 yr by Liverpool-Lad

Out of curiosity are you going DAB+?

You will need an amplifier and iirc swap the lives in the new plug harness as the permanent and ignitions are the other way aroundcompared to vw issue.

Thanks, just standard FM is fine for me really.  How is the original headunit removed?

I was wondering why my reception was terrible!

I had no idea that the aerial was amplified.

Yes if you swap the headunit it needs a powered feed

does anyone know where the (normally blue) wire from the signal booster plugs into in the harness? 

You need a PC5-90 aerial lead:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC5-90-SKODA-OCTAVIA-AMPLIFIED-ISO-DIN-AERIAL-REPLACEMENT-ADAPTOR-MAST-ANTENNA-/180769149680?hash=item2a16ae52f0:g:vUQAAOSwZQxW6C5O

Or maybe a PC5-52 lead? See posts below.

 

"The blue cable supplied on adaptor needs to be connected to any 12V ignition line. We suggest connecting to the amp remote cable on loom for your after-market unit."

 

I can't remember exactly which pin I connected mine to - but the head unit manual should list what all the pins are so you can choose a 12V ignition one.

 

The standard head unit removes quite easily with the right removal keys. Can't remember which ones I used, have a search and you should find the ones you need.

Edited 14 July, 20169 yr by vrsTom

I've ordered that exact one but neither it, nor my aftermarket head unit came with any installation instructions. The annoying thing is that, where I live I get signal (but not in other places) so I can't play around with it trying to pick up a signal. 

Pin descriptions are here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio#Power_.28A.29

 

You want to connect the blue wire from the aerial lead to the +12V switched pin (A7). A7 and A4 are reversed on these cars unless you are using a PC2-69-4 lead which should undo the reversal.

Edited 14 July, 20169 yr by vrsTom

ooh thank you!! what a useful guide, I'll go and try it now

I did it! had to splice and solder the blue wire from the stereo to the blue wire on the booster (and tested it first, of course) Image below. Only problem is now the radio doesn't want to go back in tight with all the junk that's behind it, not a biggie though 

 

http://imgur.com/7pcaXol

Carp, I ordered this one...wrong one?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251309742089?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I did it! had to splice and solder the blue wire from the stereo to the blue wire on the booster (and tested it first, of course) Image below. Only problem is now the radio doesn't want to go back in tight with all the junk that's behind it, not a biggie though 

 

http://imgur.com/7pcaXol

It should go back with a bit of persuasion. I found it easier to remove the glovebox to give easier access to the area behind the HU.

 

Carp, I ordered this one...wrong one?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251309742089?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Ah - just searched through my e-mails and the PC5-52 is actually the one I ordered... strange they are both listed for the Octy though. I can't remember if I needed another adapter to connect it up though.

haha yeah well I 'persuaded' it with both arms but there just wasn't space at the back - I'm not that bothered though, it isn't worth removing the glovebox for. Thanks again for your tips, very much appreciated

I have an adaptor so used that, just need the keys.  Is there enough room to fit it all back in with the adaptor?

 

Any gotchas?

haha yeah well I 'persuaded' it with both arms but there just wasn't space at the back - I'm not that bothered though, it isn't worth removing the glovebox for. Thanks again for your tips, very much appreciated

 

It's an absolute piece of **** to remove the glovebox - I think the whole unit is held on with about 5 or 6 screws - literally 60 seconds work!

V true

Just don't forget to take the glovebox lamp wire off before you pull the box right out.

Chaps, do I need an ISO adaptor too?

 

The list is endless!

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-69-4-Skoda-Fabia-Octavia-ISO-Stereo-Head-Unit-Harness-Adaptor-Wiring-Lead-/180734435046?hash=item2a149c9ee6:m:muisyqLIZtmzt6wYgHQVkeg

 

?

I didn't when I fitted my Alpine unit, but I suppose only someone who has fitted a Pioneer can comment for certain. I just had to swop the lives on the radio loom and connect the aerial amp live to the loom.

Thanks Phil.  The Pioneer lead just has the 2 standard ISO block inputs.

 

Hopefully the Skoda has the other side as standard?

Sounds the same as my Alpine - I checked mine against an ISO pin out to be sure, but aftermarket loom was not necessary for me.

 

PS - if you get stuck for radio keys, a hack saw broken in 2 makes a good substitute if you cant get the correct item. you only need to start it sliding, then the blade halves just come out leaving you to slide out the radio. I know it sounds very crude, but it works in a push if you get stuck.

Edited 16 July, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Thanks

I've got the head unit fitted now.  Oddly I did not need the adaptor and I can pick up lots of station with perfect quality?

 

Im wondering whether the very early cars (mine is a Y reg) did not have an amplified aerial?

 

Anyway, all sorted!!