Which sensor exactly did you unplug?

 

If there was actually a problem with the ECU you wouldn't get any fuel injection and therefore no smell of fuel.

I unplugged the sensor with attaches on the back of the ECT, which plugs into the plastic thermostat. Hmmm i dont know what to do now..

So if the smell of fuel indicates there cant be a problem with the ecu, could it be the key that needs recoding?

Oh and i don't have access to do a diagnostic on the car again, unless i pay a mobile mechanic,which after the last one, i dont really want to do

Edited 17 August, 20169 yr by Azzy12

Could it be worth checking the immo pins on the cluster?

 

You actually need some diagnostics done plain and simple. Assumption and guess work will get you no where.

You may not be able to do it yourself and will have to pay someone to sort it.

Start with the basics and work forward before jumping in pulling dash clusters apart etc.

Well damn me for suggesting a free, fifteen-minutes-work check!

Edited 17 August, 20169 yr by Wino

Okay, i had the car diagnosed yesterday which showed the fault codes, what else needs to be done, in terms of running a diagnostic on the car??

I just dont want to pay another mobile mechanic to run another diagnostic which again just will tell me fault codes

If you really do need to get this car running properly again, I'd just go along with Tech1e's sound advice, this ask/help pingpong match could have quite some time to run, which if you need this car running is not the way to do things!

Spoke to midlandsvw, who are vw specialists, and they stated they can look at the car, to diagnose the fault is £45 per hour and they wouldnt be able to state how long itll take. They are extremely busy with big jobs so could be in the garage for weeks. My sister now wants to sell the car, so i shall put an ad up. Cheers all

I unplugged the sensor with attaches on the back of the ECT, which plugs into the plastic thermostat. Hmmm i dont know what to do now..

So if the smell of fuel indicates there cant be a problem with the ecu, could it be the key that needs recoding?

Oh and i don't have access to do a diagnostic on the car again, unless i pay a mobile mechanic,which after the last one, i dont really want to do

 

Hmmm, are you sure that's the ECT sensor and not the fan thermo switch you unplugged, ECT sensor is under the air filter housing on the right hand side of the cylinder head, it faces upwards and the thermostat is further back in a different housing and almost inaccessible.

 

Edit: The key doesn't need recoding since the car would start and then cut out if there was an immobiliser fault. Also you sister is pretty faint-hearted wanting to sell a car because of a minor fault, all cars go wrong.

Edited 17 August, 20169 yr by sepulchrave

You'll know you've got the ECT, it's a fiddle getting to it around the EGR pipe.

And I'm not so sure on it not being an immobiser issue. If you try to start so many times and it fails the engine ECU blocks for a period of time. This can be checked in one of the value blocks. This could explain a few communication issues. Do you have another key to try?

No unfortunately my sister only has the one key. The car has done this in the past, failed to start but after a few tries, it fires up. However this time, as ive stated it just turns over.

Im glad that this can be checked in the value blocjs as youve stated tech1e, however the garages around my area just about know how to use a diagnostic so im not too confident theyll know exactly where to look and what to find :-/

So was it a two-wire plug you disconnected, or three-way (radiator thermoswitch)?

Two wire plug. It was definitely the ECT sensor, as i had to take the clip which holds the coolant sensor in, out, in order to turn the sensor itself, to unplug it

Fair enough.

Update:

Had the key checked at an auto locksmith, they have confirmed the transponder is fine.

I have a basic Fault Reader at home and using the Torque App, the fault code P0501 appears; vehicle speed sensor.

Well that certainly wouldn't stop it starting.

I was just speaking to someone who had a Golf which had the same error code, ECM No communication, and they stated that they sprayed connection cleaner in the ECU plugs and left for 10mins or so, reconmected and it started.. would this be recommended to try?

Give it a whirl if you like.

Well that didnt work

Would be easier to take it to a garage to get the problem solved?

Tends to be expensive when the car can't be driven there.

Why not check out the immo connections in the cluster? Free, not difficult, nothing to lose?

Back to first principles then.

 

Which engine is it, AUA or BBY? Look at the sticker under the boot carpet to check.

When you crank the engine is it turning at normal speed or is it sluggish?

Does the engine fire at all or does it just turn over?

Are there any lights on the dash when you try and start it?

When you unlock the car does the LED next to the door lock stop flashing? Is it remote locking or manual?

Is the fuel smell strong when you crank the engine and is there plenty of fuel in the tank?

Well that didnt work

  

Can't say I'm surprised

Tends to be expensive when the car can't be driven there.

Why not check out the immo connections in the cluster? Free, not difficult, nothing to lose?

Whilst I dismissed this earlier on in the thread I would certainly now follow Wino's advice and give it a go. It could have started out an immobiliser issue and has now had a hissy fit and locked out.

If it's an AUA-code engine, can they have a coilpack fault without throwing a fault code?