sticking rear brake caliper

[Deano386]

ok so getting alot of heat from my rear caliper and sticking so im going to try replace the sliders and seals so has any got links to these kits dont want to order the wrong ones and have the car off he road? thanks in advance these are what iv found? p.s there for the rear vrs 56 plate tfsi  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-SLIDER-PIN-KIT-GUIDES-SKODA-OCTAVIA-TRW-VERSION-/321929668037?hash=item4af480e5c5:g:Tr4AAOSwv-NWVDfB

 

[wiilydog]

Have you tried winding back the rear pistons to see if they are not seized?

[Deano386]

Have you tried winding back the rear pistons to see if they are not seized?

no not yet i was going to order this sliders while i was there or does that sound daft? 

[wiilydog]

Unless the boots are torn, the pins just normally need a clean and regrease. Hence the question about checking the pistons first before replacing any parts.

[FatblokeVRS]

The rears are seemingly prone to the seals swelling inside and seizing the pistons.

I had bother with mine and got two new ones (OEM TRW) to replace them off eBay.

[meta55b]

The rears are seemingly prone to the seals swelling inside and seizing the pistons.

I had bother with mine and got two new ones (OEM TRW) to replace them off eBay.

I got them to, worked out cheaper than re-cons.

[xman]

Remove the caliper, pull out the pads, and clean and dress everything up, particulary the carrier and pads. You will need a small file. The build up of corrosion and solidified brake dust cement on the carrier and pad edges stops the caliper moving freely. Tap off /scrape off rust around the disc edge.

Wind the piston back a bit, reinsert pads, lubricate the sliding surfaces on the carrier/pads with ceratec brake grease lightly. Refit the caliper.

Its a 20-30 min job that should be done every major service.

Edited 19 September, 2016 by xman

[Deano386]

Remove the caliper, pull out the pads, and clean and dress everything up, particulary the carrier and pads. You will need a small file. The build up of corrosion and solidified brake dust cement on the carrier and pad edges stops the caliper moving freely. Tap off /scrape off rust around the disc edge.

Wind the piston back a bit, reinsert pads, lubricate the sliding surfaces on the carrier/pads with ceratec brake grease lightly. Refit the caliper.

Its a 20-30 min job that should be done every major service.

I'll jump on that to day! Thank you

[Deano386]

The rears are seemingly prone to the seals swelling inside and seizing the pistons.

I had bother with mine and got two new ones (OEM TRW) to replace them off eBay.

can't seem to find a cheap..ish pait I think the best iv seen is £175 for both rears on ebay. May have to pick them up if this clean/service of the rear doesn't work out

[Deano386]

does anyone know if this kit will fit please? cheap enough just to replace for good measure  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-SLIDER-PINS-REPAIR-KIT-CARRIER-SKODA-VW-AUDI-SEAT-/271825643997?hash=item3f4a1229dd:g:2OwAAOSwBLlVHATv

[Guest]

Reconditioned calipers ready to bolt on £39.95 from CarfactorsUK Birmingham (eBay)

£10 refund when you return your old caliper in prepaid bag.

Bargain :-)

[CWARD]

 

 

Remove the caliper, pull out the pads, and clean and dress everything up, particulary the carrier and pads. You will need a small file. The build up of corrosion and solidified brake dust cement on the carrier and pad edges stops the caliper moving freely. Tap off /scrape off rust around the disc edge.

Wind the piston back a bit, reinsert pads, lubricate the sliding surfaces on the carrier/pads with ceratec brake grease lightly. Refit the caliper.

Its a 20-30 min job that should be done every major service. 

 

+1. Might add to use a dust mask when doing this job.

 

Always amazes me on this forum that the answer is to replace the caliper when 9 out 10 times it is just good clean that is required. They really aren't complicated. Even if the parts needed replacing it will be the seals which isn't a big job either and you could do the job within 2-3 hours taking your time to do so and that includes removing the caliper and bleeding after refitting.

[Guest]

@CWARD

I totally agree but not everyone is keen to DIY or has the time and facilities.

I just wanted to give the best price I found for a direct swap involving minimum effort.

[Guest]

@CWARD

I totally agree but not everyone is keen to DIY or has the time and facilities.

I just wanted to give the best price I found for a direct swap involving minimum effort.

[CWARD]

MicMac, wasn't having a go at you it just surprises me with the general replace rather than fix attitude.

[xman]

With the back brakes, I found the problem was with the pads sticking on the carrier, so changing the caliper wont help.

[CWARD]

That was the sane problem with mine. Filing the edges off the tabs on the pads worked a treat and as you said above a 30 min job.

[Tilt]

I'll jump on that to day! Thank you

Let us know how you get on then bud, and if it sorts your issue.

 

Cheers.

[phil5556]

I've recently changed both the rear calipers on mine. The dust seals on the pistons had both come out of the calipers and the Pistons were badly corroded.

I couldn't be bothered to service them so bought a pair of calipers and swapped them over.

[Tilt]

I couldn't be bothered to service them

 I like your honesty.  .

[phil5556]

I like your honesty. .

I'm getting fed up working on cars at the moment, anything I can do to shorten the job the better.

Took an hour a side including changing backing plates, I would have been into the next day if I'd serviced them myself. I would have had to clean them up and repaint too as the red was flaking off and looked terrible.