That is a big boost delivery vs ask gap. It wasn't like that when you looked at it a while back with standard maps, if my recollection serves me correctly. The remap has obviously pushed the required boost up, widening the gap, but looking at that boost delivered, it doesn't look like it would be even meeting stock levels of boost.

 

Looks dire between 2k-3k. No wonder it feels terrrible.

 

Did they think the actuator is ok / moving freely / proper range? Did they test operation? 

 

I can't recall the clips on the boost solenoid, are they just mini spring clips, should be ok to reuse as long as one doesn't break. Always useful to have a couple spare if you have to pick up genuine parts anyway.

 

Edit: is there an output test to cycle the N75 before potentially replacing a functioning item?

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by TheClient

14 minutes ago, TheClient said:

That is a big boost delivery vs ask gap. It wasn't like that when you looked at it a while back with standard maps, if my recollection serves me correctly. The remap has obviously pushed the required boost up, widening the gap, but looking at that boost delivered, it doesn't look like it would be even meeting stock levels of boost.

 

Looks dire between 2k-3k. No wonder it feels terrrible.

 

Did they think the actuator is ok / moving freely / proper range? Did they test operation? 

 

I can't recall the clips on the boost solenoid, are they just mini spring clips, should be ok to reuse as long as one doesn't break. Always useful to have a couple spare if you have to pick up genuine parts anyway.

 

Yeah it's quite a gap.  I suspect that, as you say, the map is requiring higher boost so the difference is more noticeable.  I have a new N75 and the check valve ready to go in, and I'm picking up my DV+ today also.  The N75 looks impossible to reach so I think I'll just ask my trusted garage to fit it for me.  At least tonight when I fit the DV+ (if the rain ever stops) I can visually check the pipes. I'm let to believe that banjo bolt between the turbo and N75 is prone to unscrewing so I'll inspect that if I can see it.  Will I need to remove anything to inspect the waste gate arm and actuator from under the car? I seriously hope it's not that.

 

They didn't mention the turbo or actuator directly.  Unfortunately most of the day was spent trying to get the STS device to work, still a WIP, and because I didn't know my car had this problem until the end of the day, there was no time to properly test it.  Their logs matched mine. He doesn't think the N75 is at fault as it appears to be doing what it should be doing, but obviously the pressure is going somewhere...  The n75 clips look to be mini spring clamps but as I say, getting tools in there looks to be a nightmare so I might just get the garage to do it.

Your garage should be able to test the Actuator movement with Vacuum.  And there "should" be an output test or basic settings to test the N75 without replacing. I say should, as I don't have VCDS but I'm pretty sure I've read others who have used the function.  

19 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Your garage should be able to test the Actuator movement with Vacuum.  And there "should" be an output test or basic settings to test the N75 without replacing. I say should, as I don't have VCDS but I'm pretty sure I've read others who have used the function.  

 

You're correct: there is an output test for the N75 but for some reason when I try to run it it says the requirements have not been met so I need to research that one.  

 

I'm not concerned that the actuator itself has failed;  I should have said the wastegate, my bad.  I know there is a recall for the Golf Mk 6 where there is a clip that goes on the wastegate/actuator linkage but I believe that's just to stop the link between the wastegate arm and the actuator arm from rattling and being an annoyance.  The wastegate itself is prone to developing slop/play, and given that mine is 2009, every early fault possible is probably on my car.  It certainly feels that way...

 

What I need/want to do is get my arm in and get ahold of the wastegate lever (the external bit that the actuator attaches to) and see if it wiggles around. If it does, then it indicates the wastegate is leaking which means new turbo time...

 

This is what I'm freaking out over:

 

 

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

Mmm. What about basic settings for N75?

 

I hadn't heard about the wastegate [edit: removed] arm causing leaks. But here is a youtube clip that suggests so.

 

 

 I am not sure I would know how to judge it just from wiggling it!

 

I fitted the wastegate clip from underneath the car and it was a pita to get it on. As the clip was tight and getting your hand around the top side to force it down while lying on your back was not the easiest.  You can just about get your arm / hand up there and a bit of a feel around if you remove the driveshaft shield.   There is not a lot of manoeuvring room though. Maybe not so bad just to feel the arm.

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by TheClient

18 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Mmm. What about basic settings for N75?

 

I hadn't heard about the wastegate (or is it more correctly a VNT mechanism?) arm causing leaks. But here is a youtube clip that suggests so.

 

 

 I am not sure I would know how to judge it just from wiggling it!

 

I fitted the wastegate clip from underneath the car and it was a pita to get it on. As the clip was tight and getting your hand around the top side to force it down while lying on your back was not the easiest.  You can just about get your arm / hand up there and a bit of a feel around if you remove the driveshaft shield.   There is not a lot of manoeuvring room though. Maybe not so bad just to feel the arm.

Yeah I saw that video and could do with getting that clip, although it can't/won't do anything for a leak I don't think?  £12 for a clip... I wonder if TPS/VW/Skoda stock it?

 

Is the drive shaft seal an easy thing to remove? I'm not too fussed about that clip, but I really want to check the arm for play. If it's rocking/wobbling around then it means the wastegate itself is not seating properly.  

 

EDIT: Yeah looks pretty easy to remove the shield: 

 

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

Yeah, the clip won't help a leak. Just when I got my car I noticed the terrible rattle a low revs / high boost situations.

 

It is easy to remove the driveshaft shield per the link / photos you have found and you will see wastegate arm and rod. Edit. judging what is acceptable movement might be harder esp in situ.

 

Looking at other posts the actuator air line may need to be pressurised rather than vacuum, to test movement and then see if it holds position without movement. If the Wastegate is closed by default I suppose it is unlikely to be causing underboost unless wastegate sticking or pretension spring not holding. 

 

PS. again from memory, there are only 3 vacuum lines to the N75 and an electrical wiring clip. One of the vacuum lines goes to the actuator. 

 

Edit: Photo added. Shows some visibility of the N75 and lines. You may find better with searches. 

 

 

 

 

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by TheClient

This is better.  The photo is orientated upside down to how it is actually mounted in the car though. 

On 26/07/2017 at 20:27, Woza said:

6 minutes ago, TheClient said:

This is better.  The photo is orientated upside down to how it is actually mounted in the car though. 

 

 

Thanks. I'm happy with the location and how to remove it, it's just going to be a bitch of a job to do... Ha. 

 

I'll only have time tonight to do the dv+,  plus tbh I may not even get that done as I won't have enough time for the turbo to cool down enough to be safe. 

Yes ok. It wasn't so much to tell you what it looks like or even where it is, it was more about actual connection detail and where any mounting hardware is. I just find it easier to have prepped before hand and have an idea where everything is because, as you say access is so bad and it is dark and difficult to see.

 

Like you say it may be better to let the Garage toil with it as even if you get the old one out, the new one back in installed maybe even tougher..

 

I don't think it will take that long to cool, the fittings you will be dealing with are on the compressor side, 30 min may do it but sense check all surrounding parts before starting any work.

49 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Yes ok. It wasn't so much to tell you what it looks like or even where it is, it was more about actual connection detail and where any mounting hardware is. I just find it easier to have prepped before hand and have an idea where everything is because, as you say access is so bad and it is dark and difficult to see.

 

Like you say it may be better to let the Garage toil with it as even if you get the old one out, the new one back in installed maybe even tougher..

 

I don't think it will take that long to cool, the fittings you will be dealing with are on the compressor side, 30 min may do it but sense check all surrounding parts before starting any work.

 

Much appreciated mate, thanks.  I'm not sure I'll have time to tackle the N75 tonight, but I'll be fitting the DV+ and taking the shield off to inspect the wastegate.  I might swing by TPS to get that clip too...

 

 

EDIT: Nevermind, TPS want £17+VAT!!! Ebay it is!

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

OK, DV+ fitted.  New Rev G DV was not split, just as I thought, however I'm seeing several areas of oil seepage all over the engine :/ Couldn't see or find any splits on any hard or soft pipes anywhere, but obviously that's not enough to rule out a leak. At least now with the DV+ fitted I need never worry about a split DV diaphragm again! 

 

Heat shield is missing a bolt too!!  So I need to order and fit that.

 

Next job over the weekend is to replace the N75 valve and that check valve and go from there.  The sooner I get a pressure/smoke test done the better...

 

Actually, you can see the check valve in the first picture you linked mate.  Where the black pipe at the top of the image meets the foil heat protection is where the check valve is.  You can't get them on their own according to TPS, so I've got the valve and heat shielded pipe.

 

Looking at the same image it may be easier to disconnect the bottom N75 pipe from the turbo, and remove the N75 with all the pipes attached.  This way I can much more clearly inspect them for splits.

Edited 3 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

13 hours ago, planehazza said:

 

Next job over the weekend is to replace the N75 valve and that check valve and go from there.  The sooner I get a pressure/smoke test done the better...

 

Actually, you can see the check valve in the first picture you linked mate.  Where the black pipe at the top of the image meets the foil heat protection is where the check valve is.  You can't get them on their own according to TPS, so I've got the valve and heat shielded pipe.

 

Looking at the same image it may be easier to disconnect the bottom N75 pipe from the turbo, and remove the N75 with all the pipes attached.  This way I can much more clearly inspect them for splits.

 

The N75 fit  looks simple enough on the bench! It does look a bit of a pig in the car.  Whatever way you go, you are going to have to remove the three lines at either the N75 or remote ends. It is a question of what works best.  I reckon the least accessible is going to be the actuator end connection, so I'd leave that on the actuator end if you can, remove at the n75 end instead.

 

The other two i'd probably remove at the far ends if you can and leave on the N75 you are removing (then swap over on the new n75). One of the remaining connections is just above the diverter valve, looks accessible and the final one just down from the air inlet pipe junction may pull down especially if you have a hand pushing it from above as well.

 

That is how it looks to me but of course often you have to adapt when doing the job.

 

There is scant room in there for pliers hands etc. Good luck!

 

 

 

1 hour ago, TheClient said:

 

The N75 fit  looks simple enough on the bench! It does look a bit of a pig in the car.  Whatever way you go, you are going to have to remove the three lines at either the N75 or remote ends. It is a question of what works best.  I reckon the least accessible is going to be the actuator end connection, so I'd leave that on the actuator end if you can, remove at the n75 end instead.

 

The other two i'd probably remove at the far ends if you can and leave on the N75 you are removing (then swap over on the new n75). One of the remaining connections is just above the diverter valve, looks accessible and the final one just down from the air inlet pipe junction may pull down especially if you have a hand pushing it from above as well.

 

That is how it looks to me but of course often you have to adapt when doing the job.

 

There is scant room in there for pliers hands etc. Good luck!

 

 

 

 

Yeah I see what you mean.  A two second job off the car, but a pig's ear on it.  Need to book a trip back down to Shark to A) chase up that STS device again, and b ) get the car leak/smoke tested.

Check valve replaced.  I pray I never meet the inventor of spring band clamps and crimp clamps...  The 10-16mm jubilee clamp wasn't much better so in end I secured the check valve with zip ties.  I had to remove the intake pipe from the top of the turbo and I don't have the right tool for spring clamps so that's held on temporarily with zip ties.  Need to get a jubliee clamp for that.  

 

The whole process was pointless anyway as the blowing from mouth test seems to suggest the old check valve is good anyway...

I forgot to measure it when I had it apart. Does anyone know the diameter of the small rubber intake pipe? It's the one that attaches to the top of the turbo and joins the main intake pipe to the airbox.  Part number 11. I think it's 70mm as that's what the description for the spring clamp says, but I don't know if that's the max or min size of the clamp.  I don't want to buy a 70mm jubilee to find that that's the max it opens to and I can't fit it on...

 

I don't know for sure. 70mm sounds about right. Can you get a size either side?  If you asked me to guess, I reckon that is tensioned size, so would need to be a bit bigger to fit over for fitting.

 

Are you sure a jubilee clip in there will be better?  A cable release spring clip tool works quite well in there. Would be a bit worried about jubilee clips on unsupported pipework in case they are torqued up too much. It may be hard to judge the right torque before deforming pipework. Presumably the spring clips are designed around correct clasp force.  Having said that, the lower one fits over the metal turbo pipe charge air intake doesn't it?

 

Edited 8 August, 20178 yr by TheClient

Car's in the garage, as I don't have any tools to put pressure through the vac/boost lines to check for leaks. I fitted the check valve, and it made little difference. Whilst it's in, I've asked them to fit the new N75 BCS.  I doubt the old one is faulty, so it's probably money and time wasted, but I figured it might as well go on whilst doing it to rule it out entirely.

 

The garage have said they can hear air escaping so fingers crossed I'll have more good news.  Trust me, at this point being told they can hear air is a very good thing to me as it's progress...

Just been sent a video pointing at the top of the plastic chain cover on the left of the engine.  I'm assuming that that's pointing to a leak in the head some where?  I'm not sure how that would be a boost leak though? And if I was leaking compression to the point I was loosing performance would a code not be chucked?

Sounds curious. Not much related to boost in there. Camshaft timing control valve and of course the timing chain!

Chain cover replaced and car back. The power definitely seems smoother but it doesn't feel like 260bhp to me. I'll get it back to shark when I can. 

 

So far the hesitation at 2500-3000 definitely feel at least a lot better if not gone so far. I'll know for definite tomorrow when I go to work starting from a cold engine. 

Edited 15 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

Engine vacuum leak? Maybe fix your oil leak around that area.  Wouldn't have thought it will solve the boost deficit delivered vs demand.  Good that it may have solved the stutter though and of course an oil leak.... 

1 hour ago, TheClient said:

Engine vacuum leak? Maybe fix your oil leak around that area.  Wouldn't have thought it will solve the boost deficit delivered vs demand.  Good that it may have solved the stutter though and of course an oil leak.... 

 

Strangely, it felt 'different', almost less powerful, after fitting the DV+.  I followed the instructions to the letter, as well as smearing oil on the piston for lube, so I'm not sure how I could have done it wrong...

25 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

Strangely, it felt 'different', almost less powerful, after fitting the DV+.  I followed the instructions to the letter, as well as smearing oil on the piston for lube, so I'm not sure how I could have done it wrong...

 

Doesn't surprise me as smoother running or quieter cars always seem less powerful. Check acceleration times as a guide.

well here's some data from some 3k 3rd gear pulls. Seems to be matching spevcified better now...

 

 

LOG-boost 160818 2.xlsx