54 minutes ago, meaty101 said:

Some great info here chaps and although All of this is way above my skill set I'll add my findings. I bought my vrs late last year and on the drive home was very underwhelmed having just sold a Leon FR with the same engine. A few searches here came up with a faulty DV. Slightly different to the op here though but mine was still on the original unit ( B or C iirc ). I was fully expecting the diaphragm to look like a tetley tea bag but no rips or damage anywhere. I debated leaving it and looking elsewhere for the problem but as the car was jacked up and the low cost of the valve I just replaced it anyway. The car was transformed night and day. I was lucky really as I didn't run any logs for boost etc just gambled. So even though these units can look ok it could be still causing problems.

 

You've just convinced me to change mine mate.

 

Probably a daft question, but like with spark plugs, does the engine have to be cold before replacing the DV? Obviously I don't want to do it hot as to not burn myself, but I'm guessing doing it on a warm turbo is OK as it's not aluminium? Will an hour's cooling be enough?

Edited 21 June, 20178 yr by planehazza

Mine had been 5 miles when I did mine as we changed it at my son's Garage although it was November hence the reason we done it indoors. It wasn't that hot iirc. 

36 minutes ago, meaty101 said:

Mine had been 5 miles when I did mine as we changed it at my son's Garage although it was November hence the reason we done it indoors. It wasn't that hot iirc. 

 

Well I forgot I was out at the parents' tonight anyway so it'll have to wait until the weekend now anyway.

Still haven't gotten around to changing this as wasn't feeling too great at the weekend.  Could the fuel filter be another culprit, or would I likely get lean faults?  My stuttering/loss of power is bring up no codes/CEL so it's doing my head in trying to find the culprit.

 

Going to disconnect the MAF on the way home tonight.  I take it it's OK to run the car for ~10 miles with the MAF disconnected?

Edited 26 June, 20178 yr by planehazza

4 hours ago, planehazza said:

Still haven't gotten around to changing this as wasn't feeling too great at the weekend.  Could the fuel filter be another culprit, or would I likely get lean faults?  My stuttering/loss of power is bring up no codes/CEL so it's doing my head in trying to find the culprit.

 

Going to disconnect the MAF on the way home tonight.  I take it it's OK to run the car for ~10 miles with the MAF disconnected?

 

Drove home with the MAF unplugged, and it seemed better but it could just be placebo.  In other news, I looked under the car to see if I could get a PN of the fuel filter and was greeted by this **** poor bodge job.  I asked for the fuel filter to be changes not long after I got the car, but I'm now not convinced it was done, or at least not properly:

 

https://goo.gl/photos/4WDwPgis6iXbo19n6

 

For the sake of £20 I'm tempted to change the filter anyways.

Yes, that looks like it has been there a while. But it has definitely been touched so maybe it was replaced!!! I did do mine last year.  For such a basic DIY it is a bit of a PITA just doing it underneath the car.. The plastic bracket has a security flap where the screw mount is. Which allows it to separate just enough to slide out. That is assuming you can release the two fuel line tabs that are impossibly located on the underside of the car, top side of the filter. There is probably a VAG tool but I didn't have it.

 

I ended up just cutting the security tab to give a little bit of movement to allow me to release the fuel line tabs and then I just re-screwed the bracket together.  I didn't need to cable tie or anything. Seems like yours has been cut straight through the main part of the bracket. You could probably replace the bracket at minimal cost.  You have to be careful not to crush the plastic rigid fuel line to the fuel tank by moving the filter down (the pipe bends and crushes) if it is not released before doing so, when removing the filter as well.

 

I doubt it is your problem, I'd expect the fuel flow to be consistent and more of a problem at full throttle and worse as revs rise but it eleiminates another maintenance item cause. 

 

Edited 26 June, 20178 yr by TheClient

25 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Yes, that looks like it has been there a while. But it has definitely been touched so maybe it was replaced!!! I did do mine last year.  For such a basic DIY it is a bit of a PITA just doing it underneath the car.. The plastic bracket has a security flap where the screw mount is. Which allows it to separate just enough to slide out. That is assuming you can release the two fuel line tabs that are impossibly located on the underside of the car, top side of the filter. There is probably a VAG tool but I didn't have it.

 

I ended up just cutting the security tab to give a little bit of movement to allow me to release the fuel line tabs and then I just re-screwed the bracket together.  I didn't need to cable tie or anything. Seems like yours has been cut straight through the main part of the bracket. You could probably replace the bracket at minimal cost.  You have to be careful not to crush the plastic rigid fuel line to the fuel tank by moving the filter down (the pipe bends and crushes) if it is not released before doing so, when removing the filter as well.

 

I doubt it is your problem, I'd expect the fuel flow to be consistent and more of a problem at full throttle and worse as revs rise but it eleiminates another maintenance item cause. 

 

 

Yeah as I say, it was requested but I lost faith with particular garage a while back.  It is exposed to all the gunk on the road so it does have a hard life.  I guess the visible dirt etc is expected for that part after ~17k miles.  I'll order one to fit in the near future.  I still want to replace the DV; I'm not convinced I have a problem, as it looked OK when I took it off last time, but I didn't replace it.  

 

I hope it's something as simple as the MAF.  The bad part is that they're certainly not cheap, but at least it's easy to diagnose and replace. If I'm happy that the MAF is suspect, I'll check all the pins and wiring before splashing out.

Mmmm only 17k miles.  Mine didn't look like that on the outside after 35k miles. So I am also not too sure it was done when you paid for it.  It is underneath and exposed but if fitted properly, seems to avoid most of the road gunk on mine.  I've still got the original part I removed somewhere, I was going to cut it open and see what it was like.....

5 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Mmmm only 17k miles.  Mine didn't look like that on the outside after 35k miles. So I am also not too sure it was done when you paid for it.  It is underneath and exposed but if fitted properly, seems to avoid most of the road gunk on mine.  I've still got the original part I removed somewhere, I was going to cut it open and see what it was like.....

Well as I say, it's worth doing; only £19 for VAG part on ebay, unless you think getting a MANN filter instead would be best?  Yeah I'm tempted to cut mine open too, but I watched a video of guy using a dremel with a cutting disc... Is that good idea?! The potential for sparks and combustion seems quite a risk to me?

 

Do you think it's possible that it is indeed the MAF causing my stutter/hesitation/lack of power?  It did seem better in terms of stuttering/hesitation but I won't know until I can get out on an open road to test it again.  I have no codes and have never had any MAF codes except for when I've disconnected it for testing purposes.

 

Another train of thought is the N75 BCS? Again though, these are all parts that I'd expect to generate codes. It's really frustrating me that I have this power issue and no codes whatsoever.  I just have a feeling it's going to be something fundamentally wrong with the cylinders or pistons themselves :(

3 hours ago, planehazza said:

Well as I say, it's worth doing; only £19 for VAG part on ebay, unless you think getting a MANN filter instead would be best?  Yeah I'm tempted to cut mine open too, but I watched a video of guy using a dremel with a cutting disc... Is that good idea?! The potential for sparks and combustion seems quite a risk to me?

 

Do you think it's possible that it is indeed the MAF causing my stutter/hesitation/lack of power?  It did seem better in terms of stuttering/hesitation but I won't know until I can get out on an open road to test it again.  I have no codes and have never had any MAF codes except for when I've disconnected it for testing purposes.

 

Another train of thought is the N75 BCS? Again though, these are all parts that I'd expect to generate codes. It's really frustrating me that I have this power issue and no codes whatsoever.  I just have a feeling it's going to be something fundamentally wrong with the cylinders or pistons themselves :(

 

I don't think the filter brand will matter, too much. There are a lot of similar pattern VW filters with differing regulator values. You need the 6.6bar item.  I used a MANN WK69. The genuine item removed from my car was a VW Genuine - UFI made item - I just had a look at it, it had 6.6 bar stamped on it pt 1K0201051K.

 

Have you cleaned the MAF?  I really don't know, if that is going to be it. My instinct says probably not but that is not definitive.

 

The N75 is the boost controller solenoid?  I'd expect your demanded boost relative to actual boost to be out. It wasn't when we looked at plots a while back.

 

Trouble is, I can't tell you what it is.  It would be a little easier if it was more consistent fault and producing some DTCs! Go back and make it more faulty. Almost like it needs to get worse before we can make it better... Has any of your trusted garage professionals offered anything lately?

 

Edit: If I was going to cut open the fuel filter, I'd drain it of all liquid fuel as far as possible and leave it with any caps off, so the fuel evaporates for two days or more. Check it before starting, eye protection always a good idea, gloves.... Don't work on it with the caps on. There is always some danger but that should help mitigate.

Edited 26 June, 20178 yr by TheClient

Well today I smiled (wouldn't normally) when a CEL came on. I was disappointed though to find that it was just the car reporting that the MAF was unplugged when I started the car.  

 

If there is a MAF fault logged with the MAF plugged in, does it still stay in the preset air flow value that is used when the MAF is not detected?

 

I saw under readiness that O2 and Cat Converter were Failed or Incomplete, but that was due to me clearing the DTCs according to Ross Tech's site.

 

I also saw that knock sensor voltage was slightly different over the four cylinders. They read as 1.092v, 1.248v, 1.248v, 0.936v (1,2,3,4). I understand that knock sensors sense the vibration from the piston to judge TDC etc for ignition timings etc., which will probably account for why the voltages are different, but thought it best to check.

 

Am I correct in saying that with a faulty MAF unplugged, the car will run smoother but with less power?

Edited 27 June, 20178 yr by planehazza

Today, driving along when cold, I heard a metallic rustly sound.  It stopped happening when up to temp, but it's a sound I've never heard on this car before.  

 

It didn't sound like a rattly chain sound and the 'rustling leaves' sound is quite common on Google. I wonder if I do in fact have problems with the turbo or wastegate. If so it's very strange that I've never had a code for boost pressure etc.  

OK, so my car is a lot smoother now after fitting the DV, but I still a stutter/hiccup where it feels like power is droppping and coming back on over a split second around 2500rpm.  Been reading up and testing a lot and it only happens on partial load and it's always around 2500 rpm.  This has lead us to the intake flaps and from my searching it's not unheard of.  My local garage suspect the check valves in the vacuum lines between the turbo and IM, and less likely, the control solenoid that controls the intake flap runner valves.  Others have suggested it was a software issue which would also make sense as mine is an early TSI.  If this new check valve does not fix it, I'm going to try zip tying the running flap open; obviously this won't fix it, as it will introduce other drivability issues, but if the 2500rpm stutter goes, we'll know we're on the right track.  If it is software, then perhaps Shark can tune it out on Tuesday when I visit.

Worth a try. Intake manifold operation faults frequently throw codes though..

 

I think the flaps fully open at 3800 rpm, closed at idle  and I thought it was a hard changeover not gradual opening, so it could be outside your RPM range of concern..  I'm not 100% I'd have to go and rev the car to double check the changeover! You having VCDS could check in measuring block group 143 I think, runner flap position actual along side RPM.

Edited 21 July, 20178 yr by TheClient

OK, so updates, but no fix.  Car was mapped yesterday, and it ran a stock 202bhp just fine.  On the new map, it will only peak at 220bhp, with 370Nm torque.   After doing some logging, it appears there is a significant boost leak.  I've asked if they'll send on the log files but the 2500-3000rpm stutter is at fault.  The stutter is a massive loss of boost pressure followed by a quick climb with a slight overboost and subsequent substantial underboost of between 200 and 300 psi.   The BHP curve mirrors this.

 

They suspect the DV, but it's just been changed.  They have recommend the D revision over the G, and by the way the car is driving, it certainly feels like it could be split, or there is a split pipe somewhere.  I think I can hear air escaping too, but it's hard to tell.  He mentioned that it could also be N75, albeit less likely.  From the specified stats and what he's seeing elsewhere, he's confident that it's doing what it should be (telling the turbo to hold xy boost) but the pressure is escaping somewhere... 

 

We also don't think it's intake runner related, not directly related anyway.  We zip tied the flap arm open and did more runs and the problems persisted.  

 

So, I need to check/replace the following:

 

• DV (again, but rather than replace it, I might give the GFB DV+ a go)
• Check valve (item 31 in attached picture)
  • This is my current priority.  It hooks into the DV, so I'm wondering if my recent PCV failure could have caused this to fail and leak? £15, worth a shot. Would possibly also account for the oil smell I get sometimes if it's leaking oily vapours from the PCV?
• N75 

I'll try to think about this a bit.  Strange that it is running stock boost levels ok, no signs of seepage or escape but you still have this stutter. No boost escape evident on logs in standard map?  Is it now (the stutter) more noticeable driving with the remap?

 

Mine seems to have the G diverter valve, some people seem to prefer them over the D.  G is (improved) diaphragm and D is piston from what I understand. D may have a longer service life but yours is brand new...

 

 I doubt that is the problem having changed it without improving the situation. But it is a bit of a difficult one this problem solving on your car,....

Edited 26 July, 20178 yr by TheClient

20 minutes ago, TheClient said:

I'll try to think about this a bit.  Strange that it is running stock boost levels ok, no signs of seepage or escape but you still have this stutter. No boost escape evident on logs in standard map?  Is it now (the stutter) more noticeable driving with the remap?

 

Mine seems to have the G diverter valve, some people seem to prefer them over the D.  G is (improved) diaphragm and D is piston from what I understand. D may have a longer service life but yours is brand new...

 

 I doubt that is the problem having changed it without improving the situation. But it is a bit of a difficult one this problem solving on your car,....

 

The way I understand it perhaps the system is able to withhold the pressure for the stock map, but the extra boost needed for the map has made the leak more apparent.  The stutter is worse now, yes.  I'm of the opinion that whilst the G is prone to splitting due to it being a diaphragm, it does not leak from new like the D is prone to.  I could have simply replaced the old with a faulty new part, you never know.   I'll climb under and inspect it and check for any split pipes around the turbo, DV, and N75 BCS.

Here's a fresh code:

 

Quote

1 Fault Found:
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation 
               P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100000
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 128234 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 17:55:47

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 6384 /min
                    Load: 87.8 %
                    Speed: 173.0 km/h
                    Temperature: 96.0°C
                    Temperature: 56.0°C
                    Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
                    Voltage: 13.462 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

 

 

 

Quote

These will be due to having the rear wheels stationary on the dyno, so can be ignore

 

Address 03: ABS Brakes (-----)       Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
   Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AN    HW: 1K0 907 379 AN
   Component: ESP MK60EC1   H45 0107  
   Revision: 00H45001    
   Coding: 163B601C092700FA681406EB901B00812C00
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000
   VCID: 7EF33033E9F556B19B-802A

3 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 16:50:52

             Freeze Frame:
                    Count: 1
                    Count: 2
                    Count: 12288
                    Count: 8194
                    Count: 43264
                    Count: 1
                    Count: 0
                    Count: 0

00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44) 
            003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 16:50:52

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 
            003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100011
                    Fault Priority: 1
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128204 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 16:32:20

             Freeze Frame:
                    Count: 320
                    Count: 2
                    Count: 4608
                    Count: 67
                    Count: 49167
                    Count: 1
                    Count: 0
                    Count: 0

 

 

Quote

Not sure why this has occurred?

Address 08: Auto HVAC (J255)       Labels: 5K0-907-044.clb
   Part No SW: 3T0 907 044 AK    HW: 3T0 907 044 AK
   Component: Climatronic   H14 0302  
   Revision: 00005001    
   Coding: 0000000000
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000
   ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatronic A01001
   ROD: EV_ClimaAutoBasis_SK35.rod
   VCID: 7BF53927F2E74399BC-802E

1 Fault Found:
13701376 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) 
          U1111 00 [008] - -
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Date: 2017.07.25
                    Time: 16:50:51

 

 

Quote

This, I assume, is simply from the ECU being flashed?
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519)       Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb
   Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 D    HW: 1K0 937 087 D
   Component: BCM PQ35  H   103 0541  
   Revision: 00103 AE    
   Coding: 46180AB8B073B1C040080080150081E4072000AE425D8960800440040000
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 12345
   VCID: 326BD4036D2D42D12F-8066

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1Z2 955 119 C  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
   Component: Wischer 06100  22  0601 
   Coding: 00DFB7

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1Z0 951 171 
   Component: Innenraumuebe  008 5101 

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1K8 951 605 
   Component: LIN BACKUP HO  H09 9002 

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 16:50:52

             Freeze Frame:
                        Term 15 On
                    Voltage: 12.15 V
                        ON
                        ON
                        Term 50 Off
                        OFF
                        OFF

 

Quote

More odd codes?

Address 17: Instruments (J285)       Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb
   Part No SW: 1Z0 920 903 C    HW: 1Z0 920 903 C
   Component: KOMBI         H21 0110  
   Serial number: 00000000000000
   Coding: 410B00
   Shop #: WSC 73430 031 12345
   ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04040
   ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_VW25.rod
   VCID: 3561EF1F944355E90A-8060

1 Fault Found:
12648448 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) 
          U1111 00 [008] - -
          Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Date: 2017.07.25
                    Time: 16:50:51

Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 1K0-907-530-V4.clb
   Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 AA    HW: 1K0 907 951 
   Component: J533  Gateway   H16 5223  
   Revision:   H16       Serial number: 4120K09A0109B2
   Coding: E9807F06000202001303
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000
   VCID: 66C378535165EE7173-8032

 

Quote

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100100
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 38
                    Mileage: 128212 km
                    Time Indication: 0

 

Quote

Address 44: Steering Assist        Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb
   Part No: 1K0 909 144 H
   Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 74     2901  
   Revision: 00H17000    
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000
   VCID: 2F6DDD77BE1F6F3940-807A

2 Faults Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module 
            013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101101
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 3
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128222 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 17:23:07

             Freeze Frame:
                    Voltage: 13.63 V
                        DU
                    Temperature: 51.0°C
                    RPM: 1894 /min
                    Speed: 16.0 km/h
                    Speed: 16.0 km/h
                    Count: 0

01314 - Engine Control Module 
            004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101101
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 3
                    Reset counter: 39
                    Mileage: 128222 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2011.12.16
                    Time: 17:23:07

 

 

Edited 26 July, 20178 yr by planehazza

Hi, I have had a similar issue recently with my vrs with a slight stutter / hesitation around 2500 rpm, which I thought might have been one of the coils going . No engine management light. Took it to the garage and they changed purge valve N115 and some hose as it was leaking (parts around £75) and so far it has worked. 

1 hour ago, Woza said:

Hi, I have had a similar issue recently with my vrs with a slight stutter / hesitation around 2500 rpm, which I thought might have been one of the coils going . No engine management light. Took it to the garage and they changed purge valve N115 and some hose as it was leaking (parts around £75) and so far it has worked. 

Interesting, thanks. That ties in with my lines of thought too. I'll see if I can't try soapy water /bubbles trick to find a leak. 

I'm not sure about all those missing message codes accross HVAC and Instruments and int no ecm communication.   Did Shark see them after the map and clear them? Almost like coding is incorrect or incompatible / unexpected part pairing is in use.

 

Must have been caused with the process to flash the car.

 

If you have cleared them and they stay away and the car is functioning normally, instruments working, car starts, climatronic operates, then probably not worth getting too involved with.

18 minutes ago, TheClient said:

I'm not sure about all those missing message codes accross HVAC and Instruments and int no ecm communication.   Did Shark see them after the map and clear them? Almost like coding is incorrect or incompatible / unexpected part pairing is in use.

 

Must have been caused with the process to flash the car.

 

If you have cleared them and they stay away and the car is functioning normally, instruments working, car starts, climatronic operates, then probably not worth getting too involved with.

 

Yeah that was what I was thinking. I do have the odd coding change (mid ccm for MFSW etc) as well as a few VCDS tweaks.  Having said that, it's not like coding on every car is going to be different, and all the tweaks (tear drop, lock/unlock beep etc.) still work. I've cleared them and I checked again when I got home and they have not resurfaced.  

 

Do you think (until I get it smoke tested) the squirty soapy water bubble trick will detect any leaks?

3 hours ago, planehazza said:

 

Yeah that was what I was thinking. I do have the odd coding change (mid ccm for MFSW etc) as well as a few VCDS tweaks.  Having said that, it's not like coding on every car is going to be different, and all the tweaks (tear drop, lock/unlock beep etc.) still work. I've cleared them and I checked again when I got home and they have not resurfaced.  

 

Do you think (until I get it smoke tested) the squirty soapy water bubble trick will detect any leaks?

You'll be able to investigate vacuum pipework leaks with some soapy solution. Not sure how far you'll get on the boost leaks you are looking for.

 

Definitively inspect and check the fit of all the charged air connections in rigid plastic pipework from turbo to intercooler, intercooler to throttle body etc.

Thanks mate.  I can only guess that by the power loss/stuttering I'm getting I'd be loosing boost from a main pipe, not a smaller vac line.  I can't see anything from the top of the car, so I think this weekend's job is going to be getting under and inspecting the DV again and all the surrounding pipes.  Urgh, this car...

No progress as yet as haven't had time to climb under the car.  I've ordered GFB DV+ so no more split DV diaphragm woes.  I can't see any cracked/split pipes up top, but will inspect the IC pipes and vac lines around the turbo when I fit the DV+ mod.  

 

When doing measuring on boost, should the n75 boost control shall 2.0% constantly?  I thought that was the actuation of the solonoid? If so, would a constant value of 2% indicate a failed/failing N75 BCS? 

 

Not a super detailed curve and not the complete range, but this is what I got in a 2nd gear sprint.  It's smoother as even with the 'turbo!' feautre, there aren't lots of stats to go from.  What the f00k  is going on with my car...

 

 

Edited 2 August, 20178 yr by planehazza

I see from my logging that the BCS isn't sat at 2% all the time, so it's definitely responding to commands.  I don't know enough about it to say whether it's working correctly, but seeing as I'm fitting a DV+ and the BCS is only £25, I'll fit a new one whilst I'm checking all the pipes etc.  Are the clamps reusable?