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hi anyone ever fitted the racechip for the 280 4x4 if so is it possible for me to fit it myself or is it a professional job any help appreciated as i am not mechanically minded ..and are the results worth it thanks all

Yes - second best update I fitted after the Response Control.

A remap is always best as it can be much more finely tuned to your specific engine but it will void your warranty if anything goes wrong with the engine. It also interferes with the VAG analyser used by Skoda workshops.

The Racechip Ultimate box works very well and, though my dealer has no concerns about it,  it can easily be removed without leaving any tell-tale signs.

It's fairly straightforward to fit. The only tools required are a decent jack and a torx screwdriver - optional, but makes it easier.

See my post #910 in the 280PS Thread.

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I agree with the OP's concerns about the full remap.  After spending so much on a top-end car I would really think twice about doing anything that would compromise the warranty. Part of paying the premium on a new car is to have the benefit and peace of mind from a warranty IMO.

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hi anyone ever fitted the racechip for the 280 4x4 if so is it possible for me to fit it myself or is it a professional job any help appreciated as i am not mechanically minded ..and are the results worth it thanks all

 

Have a look at DTUK.

 

I was always a tuning box sceptic, but the new ones are really good - I've got one of their newest systems fitted to my Octy 3 L&K diesel.

 

There are loads of people that have them fitted to their O3 vRS petrols, with strong results. Also they yield good results with Golf R's (closer to your engine spec) by the looks of their posts on social media etc.

 

Also, the customer service is really good and they will provide good impartial advice on what's best.

 

http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-skoda_superb-(2015-)_2.0-tsi-280-ps 

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Thanks Billy Jim for your reply firstly did you have any problems with the engine management light coming on as this is something they say can happen and secondly any chance of some photos of what goes where and so on if not thanks for your reply

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Thanks Billy Jim for your reply firstly did you have any problems with the engine management light coming on as this is something they say can happen and secondly any chance of some photos of what goes where and so on if not thanks for your reply

I have had zero problems with the Ultimate fitted. There are two flavours - with or without bluetooth phone app. I have the without version.

There are just two sensor connectors that need to be "intercepted" with the non-app version. I believe the app version has a third connection but I can't help with that.

One is directly on top of the engine and very easy to access. Just pull up on the plastic engine cover to reveal it in all its glory.

post-74330-0-03881700-1478806047_thumb.jpg

The other is near the bottom and front of the engine just beside the A/C pump and this is the fiddly one (hence easier if you jack the front end and unscrew the plastic sump guard).

post-74330-0-48461000-1478805356_thumb.jpg

***Photos are from the PDF that was sent by Racechip and whilst it shows an Audi engine it is exactly the same as the Superb 280***

 

I should mention I had an issue with the Racechip Response Control (and I know of one other member who had the same problem). It caused an intermittent error of various systems linked to ECS and put the car in limp mode.

It has been replaced under guarantee and there's been no recurrence since.

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BillyJim has already covered it comprehensively and informatively as usual.

 

Only to add: yes, the app version has a third connection – also on top and easy to reach. I’m a sucker for gadgets so ‘had to’ have it, but have meanwhile pretty much forgotten it’s there. I just leave it on the ‘blue’ setting – some claim about efficiency – as I’m not sure the other two add anything noticeable.

 

The perceived increase in performance is as big as it’s on paper. AND: I have a strong feeling – but no measured evidence – that fuel consumption is indeed also improved! On a run recently of mixed slow A road and motorway cruising at an indicated high 70s the car showed 35mpg!! That’s not far from what I was getting with the 190ps diesel (also 4x4) I had for a while before this one. I was tempted to take a photograph. I never got near that before; 32 on a ‘good’ (boring) day.

 

One thing to add: if you’re like me and not happy about getting under a jacked car, these are excellent: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M1I05P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 – for which I paid just £39.99. The standard metal ones that everyone sells are useless for a Superb.

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BillyJim has already covered it comprehensively and informatively as usual.

Only to add: yes, the app version has a third connection – also on top and easy to reach. I’m a sucker for gadgets so ‘had to’ have it, but have meanwhile pretty much forgotten it’s there. I just leave it on the ‘blue’ setting – some claim about efficiency – as I’m not sure the other two add anything noticeable.

The perceived increase in performance is as big as it’s on paper. AND: I have a strong feeling – but no measured evidence – that fuel consumption is indeed also improved! On a run recently of mixed slow A road and motorway cruising at an indicated high 70s the car showed 35mpg!! That’s not far from what I was getting with the 190ps diesel (also 4x4) I had for a while before this one. I was tempted to take a photograph. I never got near that before; 32 on a ‘good’ (boring) day.

One thing to add: if you’re like me and not happy about getting under a jacked car, these are excellent: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M1I05P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 – for which I paid just £39.99. The standard metal ones that everyone sells are useless for a Superb.

The way the boxes work will artificially inflate your MPG on the readout - guarantee you won't be getting a lot more than 30. Best is to calculate it filling up at the pump / mileage covered.

Mine often tells me I'm getting over 60 mpg on the computer, but that turns out to be 54 in reality.

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I may be swapping from a RaceChip to a ReMap soon.

If so I will let you know the difference, if noticable.

(RaceChip is currently disconnected and the drop in performance back to stock is quite noticable. Although you then reasilse how smooth stock is :) )

 

Installation of the Racechip is a doddle.

You just need the front of the car up by about 10cm to easily install/uninstall, I made some ghetto ramps from Scaffolding boards to get underneath.

The Ramps I had were too steep to get the car up without hitting the front mouldings.

Hardest bit is routing the loom neatly, but this just requires a bit of fore-thought and 5 min of wiggling cables around.

 

o5MpgFT.jpg?1

Edited by Brenticles
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As said, don’t worry – it’s fine. Give it a go and enjoy the blast. In D it feels just as smooth and docile – if you want – as stock 280 to me; you only really feel the difference in S.

 

Nobody expects a ‘mere’ Skoda to be able to do what the car then can. :happy:

 

PS: Very plausible point about MPG readings, ‘vtec to vrs!’. It isn’t exactly a priority anyway.

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there are a lot of discussions over on vwroc about tuning boxes etc for the ea888 engine

 

consensus is that the burger jb-1 is the best option. user adjustable, and easy to install, and controls fuel too, so does not rely on the ecu compensating for more boost (so doenst run lean at any point)

 

lots more info over here 

 

http://www.vwroc.com/forums/forum/59-modifying-your-golf-r-mk7/

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Hi guys sorry to be a pain again but read the installation guide for the race chip ultimate just now as I was thinking of fitting it tomorrow but mowhere does it mention jacking up the car and removing any part to connect a cable ...now wondering if this is the wrong box any help or ideas greatly appreciated

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Hi guys sorry to be a pain again but read the installation guide for the race chip ultimate just now as I was thinking of fitting it tomorrow but mowhere does it mention jacking up the car and removing any part to connect a cable ...now wondering if this is the wrong box any help or ideas greatly appreciated

You're right, it doesn't mention jacking the car anywhere.

Removing the sump guard is indicated in the second photo of my previous post, where it says "Remove underbody cover!"

You can only get unrestricted access to the bottom sensor from below with the sump guard removed - which means getting under the front of the car - which means raising the front.

I guess RaceChip feel there was no need to state the obvious.  ;)

 

The PDF you should have received by email from RaceChip, which in my case was sent before the box had been shipped, only includes three pictures showing sensor locations (non-bluetooth version). Two of those were already included in my previous post. For convenience I've added the third, which is just a close-up of the same top sensor connection shown in the first photo...

post-74330-0-56884100-1479252211_thumb.jpg

If you don't have the bluetooth version then, combined with my post in the 280 PS thread, you already have all the information you need without having to even open the flimsy generic manual.

If you have the bluetooth version with the third connection (and I don't mean the end that plugs into the box) and haven't got the relevant PDF, then either get in touch with RaceChip or maybe someone in the Briskoda community can help.

Edited by BillyJim
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Thanks Linni took your advice and tried to fine tune the box but when I opened it there were no adjusters there I sent an e mail to racechip customer services but have heard nothing and as the enginemanagement light is still on and also ERROR STOP START FAILURE all thevery second the chip was connected I am really disappointed as its sold as a plug and play box ......any answers greatly appreciated

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The problem may arise from the fact that you purchased it from a third party.

If it comes direct from RaceChip they will pre-configure the box to the optimal settings for your engine/model before shipping.

It's possible that the vendor you used either did not configure it or used incorrect settings. It's only plug & play if it's been pre-configured correctly for your engine/model in the first place.

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Contact Racechips, ask for factiry settings (should be a combination of two symbols - letter and or digits).

Somewhere on motherboard should be two dials:

maxresdefault.jpg

 

Set default factory code and if warning light still goes on, fine tune the chip  by these dials according to instructions. There is a whole chart for different settings.

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