Coming back up from a few days away, swmbo driving, she put the headlights on , when it was clear she put high beam on, and the dipped side went off leaving a dark area directly in front,

while she went to get a drink from the services, I had a look , and yes the dipped side of the bulb does go out, when selecting high beam, leaving the area that the dipped side had lit dark.

Can this be coded out , so that both parts are on at the same time to give better lighting

As far as I was aware both low and high beam should be on together on high beam.

I know that both my dipped beams stay on when on main beam. I get a dark area between the two that irritates me although I can get rid of it by adjusting the height, I then get flashed all the time. I'll get it sorted one day....

Can this be coded out , so that both parts are on at the same time to give better lighting

 

Just to confirm, is this a halogen or xenon equipped car and are you saying the dipped beams turn off when the main beams are on?

 

Got an autoscan to take a look at?

Just to confirm, is this a halogen or xenon equipped car and are you saying the dipped beams turn off when the main beams are on?

 

Got an autoscan to take a look at?

Normal H4s I think they are, and yes the dipped turns off,

I'm now confused. (not difficult!)

If you have a 15 plate Yeti then as far as I understand it is not equipped with H4 bulbs, but H7 bulbs, one for dip, one for main. In other cars I have had both bulbs have remained alight on main beam.

Any member here with a similar car who can check theirs?

I would suggest going back to the dealers and getting them to check.

It might be codeable, but you will need to find someone who knows what the coding will be.

Mine is an L&K 2016 so the main normal bulb is an H7, I know because I recently changed the OEM to a Nightbreaker

Normal H4s I think they are, and yes the dipped turns off,

If you have a 15 plate 2ltr 150CR SE Buisiness then someone has changed the lights.

It should not be fitted with H4 bulbs and all should be on on high beam.

Have you turned high beam on and walked to the front and counted the lights that are on?

 

Edited 22 November, 20169 yr by Urrell

Normal H4s I think they are, and yes the dipped turns off,

 

If this is a pre-FL Yeti, then yes, it's normal for the dipped beams to turn off when mains are used.

 

A H4 bulb has two filaments and they aren't designed to be used together for any significant length of time. If you do, it's going to overheat the bulb and cause it to fail prematurely...

 

If it's a FL, then I'd expect two separate bulbs and the dipped to stay on.

Sorry I forgot to mention its a 12 plate, so possibly a pre facelift, now considering the facelift uses H7 bulbs, would the wireing loom be the same, so that FL headlights could be retrofitted

Sorry I forgot to mention its a 12 plate, so possibly a pre facelift, now considering the facelift uses H7 bulbs, would the wireing loom be the same, so that FL headlights could be retrofitted

 

You're going to need more than just new headlights as they are completely different front ends I'm afraid :(

 

Pre-FL:

 

FL:

Sorry I forgot to mention its a 12 plate, so possibly a pre facelift, now considering the facelift uses H7 bulbs, would the wireing loom be the same, so that FL headlights could be retrofitted

 

I think the confusion has been compounded by what cars are shown in your details! One says a 15 plate 150SE but no model, the other says a Superb.

Pre-facelift has the "bug-eyes", post doesn't.

 

If it is a "bug-eye" then the wiring loom will not be the same, and to change to the new headlights would be quite complicated and would need a modified mounting panel, as the whole front is different.

I think the confusion has been compounded by what cars are shown in your details! One says a 15 plate 150SE but no model, the other says a Superb.

Pre-facelift has the "bug-eyes", post doesn't.

 

If it is a "bug-eye" then the wiring loom will not be the same, and to change to the new headlights would be quite complicated and would need a modified mounting panel, as the whole front is different.

 

I have the superb in my profile, SWMBO has the Yeti, might have to become a fog light geek , IE running them with dipped beam, to make up the difference

Shouldnt leave a huge dark area switching between high and low beam even though the lows turn off. Maybe the alignment is out on the high beams.

Thanks.

A couple of things to check.

 

1/ Have the bulbs been changed and not put in properly?

2/ Are the lights correctly adjusted?
3/ Have they been "wound" down too far on the internal adjuster?

 

1 and 3 are easy to check yourself, 2 needs the car putting against a beam setter.

 

My pre-facelift certainly did not do this.

Will check all connections, and adjusted.

while we are on the subject of lights , has anyone tried LED H4s  do they work and give good lighting low and high  

while we are on the subject of lights , has anyone tried LED H4s

Don't bother, they will be rubbish.

 

They will be completely unfocused given loads of foreground light be very little distance light where you actually need it as I mentioned here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/417084-time-to-upgrade-headlamp-bulbs-anyone-tried-these-yet-led-h7/?p=4754452

 

Stick with good quality halogens

Don't bother, they will be rubbish.

 

They will be completely unfocused given loads of foreground light be very little distance light where you actually need it as I mentioned here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/417084-time-to-upgrade-headlamp-bulbs-anyone-tried-these-yet-led-h7/?p=4754452

 

Stick with good quality halogens

The pre FL only has normal headlights not projectors, standard H4 s

Edited 23 November, 20169 yr by skippy41

The pre FL only has normal headlights not projectors, standard H4 s

 

You'll have the same issues as a projector and also a poor cutoff causing excess glare

The pre FL only has normal headlights not projectors, standard H4 s

....and they might actually be affordable too.

Will check all connections, and adjusted.

while we are on the subject of lights , has anyone tried LED H4s  do they work and give good lighting low and high  

 

As others have said, they are not good. The  biggest problem is that LED "bulbs" need a completely differently designed reflector and front lens to produce an adequate and legal beam pattern, so just fitting a set of replacement "bulbs" into your normal lights produces ill-defined patterns with potentially lots of scatter. I know a few rally drivers who have tried them and also found that they do not produce much range. They have gone either back to normal bulbs or good quality HID's.

Fit Nightbreakers, job done!

Mine is an L&K 2016 so the main normal bulb is an H7, I know because I recently changed the OEM to a Nightbreaker

 

Surely if you have an L&K you also have Xenon lights?

Mine is an L&K 2016 so the main normal bulb is an H7, I know because I recently changed the OEM to a Nightbreaker

 

Surely if you have an L&K you also have Xenon lights?

The high beam is an H7, dipped and high beam is covered by the the Xenon.

Mainly because Xenon high beam is a bit slow to get to full brightness for flashing.