Hey you lovely Skoda helpers!

 

I have had a problem for a couple of months where I can drive 14 miles to work and the needle for my car temp (On dash) only gets to between 70-80 degrees. never hits 90 C anymore unless it sits in traffic.

 

I have plugged my phone into it and it looks like the temp reading im getting back is 8 degrees lower roughly than what it shows on my dash. where does the car get the ecu temp reading from?

What would you suggest I check/ do first?

I am getting a bit of white gunk under oil cap but I can only assume with the cold weather recently and not getting hot enough to burn off any condensation build up that's why im getting this... Any other theories, please don't say the dreaded head gasket ha-ha.

Coolant is clean looking and doesn't appear to be dropping.

How do I know if my car is actually getting to temp or if it is just a temp sensor making temp look low? Also I have heard people talk about in-line thermostat and main thermostat.

What should I replace if we do suspect thermostat?

 

I did a scan of my car and the only error code that comes up is: P0196 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (G8), Implausible Signal

Any ideas on what that can be also? And if its related to my issues. Also if there is a known fix for this code that will be great also!

 

Any comments and advice you can give will be greatly beneficial.

 

Many thanks

 

Ryan :)

 

 

Edited 17 January, 20179 yr by RyanE1992

The oil temp sensor error is likely a failed oil temp sensor or related wiring issue.

 

The temperature. Sounds like a thermostat problem. I am not 100% sure but I would expect both the ecu and the temp gauge get the data from the same sensor. However, the displayed temperature on the gauge is heavily averaged and it is insensitive to momentary changes in temp and probably lags actual temp changes.

 

Edit, also what year is your car, i.e BWA or CCZA engine? 

Edited 18 January, 20179 yr by TheClient

BWA i believe. its a 56 plate (Sorry should have mentioned that with my write up)

 

Ok my guess is thermostat and its not particularly expensive to replace so thought it would be a good place to start.

I have heard its a pig to get too though. Also do you know if there is more than one? You have any experience TheClient?

 

Ok im not sure how important that oil sensor is but i suppose i should check that out also :) it doesnt present engine management light though...

 

Cheers 

Ryan

BWA i believe. its a 56 plate (Sorry should have mentioned that with my write up)

 

Ok my guess is thermostat and its not particularly expensive to replace so thought it would be a good place to start.

I have heard its a pig to get too though. Also do you know if there is more than one? You have any experience TheClient?

 

Ok im not sure how important that oil sensor is but i suppose i should check that out also :) it doesnt present engine management light though...

 

Cheers 

Ryan

 

Changed a few thermostats in my time but not on a vRS BWA.

 

There are two I believe, in this thread link there is a video which shows you what is involved. The one under the intake box looks easy. The one at front of engine underneath the dip stick looks like a bit of a pig and several hours labour.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341571-octy-ii-vrs-thermostat-diy-job/

 

Oil temp sensor probably won't cause that much of an issue apart from if maxidot is present the readout wont be correct, if there is a oil temp warning it won't function.  Engine fueling usually off coolant temp.

Edited 18 January, 20179 yr by TheClient

I had the same issue a couple of years back, a new main thermostat fixed it.

Edited 18 January, 20179 yr by Mr G 76

Changed a few thermostats in my time but not on a vRS BWA.

 

There are two I believe, in this thread link there is a video which shows you what is involved. The one under the intake box looks easy. The one at front of engine underneath the dip stick looks like a bit of a pig and several hours labour.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341571-octy-ii-vrs-thermostat-diy-job/

 

Oil temp sensor probably won't cause that much of an issue apart from if maxidot is present the readout wont be correct, if there is a oil temp warning it won't function.  Engine fueling usually off coolant temp.

Ok cheers for that. will come in handy for sure! I have tried to ask skoda/vw for prices and they said there was only one thermostat... which confuses me.

 

I had the same issue a couple of years back, a new main thermostat fixed it.

Did you also replace inline stat too and did you replace yourself?

Be interesting to find out if you had white gunk under oil cap before changing stat?

 

I dont want to do all this work to find out my headgasket is infact dodgey :/

 

Let me know! 

 

Cheers

I just had my local VAG specialist change the main thermostat. It's a fairly common fault on the TFSI engines.

I wouldn't worry about the white gunk, it's quite normal if you do short journeys. Especially at this time of the year.

It will be the main stat behind alternator as the others have said and the emulsified oil will be caused by the oil not getting up to temp properly, I've had the same issue.

I changed the stat myself however I had the front off the car due to other work I was doing, it's a bit of a fiddle tbh and I don't look forward to doing it again.

It will be the main stat behind alternator as the others have said and the emulsified oil will be caused by the oil not getting up to temp properly, I've had the same issue.

I changed the stat myself however I had the front off the car due to other work I was doing, it's a bit of a fiddle tbh and I don't look forward to doing it again.

 

Ok Cheers i have ordered up a new thermostat from skoda, Although to me it looks slightly different to what i expected. at the top where it has a short straight pipe, i thought that was meant to be a 90 degree joint? i have ordered 3 liters of g13 coolant.

Ordered new discs and pads (ouch) and ordered a service kit.

Should be a busy few days next week! :P

aye I seem to remember mine having a right angle on one of the hose connections, the other big one had a metal clip holding it on and the small one was a push fit with a screw securing it.

I'm sure you'll get it all done easy enough, I was doing my clutch, dual mass, front mount intercooler, hpfp internals and a new front panel so car was in bits making it easier for me.

aye I seem to remember mine having a right angle on one of the hose connections, the other big one had a metal clip holding it on and the small one was a push fit with a screw securing it.

I'm sure you'll get it all done easy enough, I was doing my clutch, dual mass, front mount intercooler, hpfp internals and a new front panel so car was in bits making it easier for me.

Jebus fair play!

I got some new tools for crimbo. i suppose i need to get down and dirty and use them :)

guarenteed to lose a load of skin off my hands doing this!

Worth watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZDMexvOlmU&feature=youtu.be

 

*note the bit at 11:24 - remove the two triple square screws - from what I remember those two screws hold the solid coolant pipe that runs along the front of the engine.

 

On 1/20/2017 at 20:31, Extreme3d said:

Worth watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZDMexvOlmU&feature=youtu.be

 

*note the bit at 11:24 - remove the two triple square screws - from what I remember those two screws hold the solid coolant pipe that runs along the front of the engine.

Cheers Extreme3d. I have replaced the thermostat. everything feels fine except for the alternator (pretty much last bloody thing to go in haha) wont go in.

It was really hard to lever out.

Anybody got a good way to push the threaded bushes out further on the alternator to aid with installation? barely fits at the moment!

I don't want to do any damage by hammering it lots, so any advice will be appreciated. i can then get on to doing one last flush of the system before putting in the good stuff (G13)

 

Cheers!

I used a Rubber mallet to GENTLY tap it in to place, it is a bitch but it will go, once you get one bolt it in gives you a pivot point making lining up the second easier so focus on the top one and the  swing it down.  Make sure you tap it on the stronger areas. 

 

I pressed out one one of the metal bushes you are talking about and it didn't move back when I tightened it back up. 

 

There's a fair chance you'll crack the casing trying to press it out I'd say. 

Sorry, completely forgot about that, see here (at 6min 45 secs)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oINF0nuRR8

Ok i saw your messages too late, real sorry! i put a long socket over the bush and sat it against the metal surface. Threaded the bolt through and it pulled it through and gave me loads of room  nothing bent or snapped so all good! Alsdo tightened up lovely again afterwards thank god!

I am wondering whats going on though...

My lower radiator hose doesn't get hot even when engine temp is at 90 degrees? I have bled it to the best of my knowledge. it gurgled and i filled resorvoir up a few times. seems to stay the same level now and ive done the squeezing of radiator hoses etc. 

Maybe its normal and lower Rad hose only gets hot after a bit of thrashing or in the summer?

No, that means the stat hasn't opened yet. 

 

To bleed you need to set the cabin heater to the hottest temp and rev the car at 2.5k until the fans come on, this can take quite a while but once a the fans come on you'll feel the lower hose hot. 

 

Obviously you need to keep an eye on the temp and you don't want it going much more than 90

 

I take it the stat was the correct one?

 

 

54 minutes ago, RichieXR2 said:

No, that means the stat hasn't opened yet. 

 

To bleed you need to set the cabin heater to the hottest temp and rev the car at 2.5k until the fans come on, this can take quite a while but once a the fans come on you'll feel the lower hose hot. 

 

Obviously you need to keep an eye on the temp and you don't want it going much more than 90

 

I take it the stat was the correct one?

original part from skoda so should be ok. it was midnight last night when I ran the engine. Didn't rev it as I didn't wana wake neighbours ha.was also near to 0 degrees outside.

 

so rev it up u reckon? and put on hottest. That's cool. my fans were in cold and set to off.  so that wouldn't help lol 

 

cheers

 

1 minute ago, RyanE1992 said:

 

 

original part from skoda so should be ok. it was midnight last night when I ran the engine. Didn't rev it as I didn't wana wake neighbours ha.was also near to 0 degrees outside.

 

so rev it up u reckon? and put on hottest. That's cool. my fans were in cold and set to off.  so that wouldn't help lol 

 

cheers

 

 

 

I was asking about the stat because you said one of the hose connections wasn't a 90 degree. 

 

Yes mate get the temp to max and blower off or on the lowest setting and get someone to hold the revs at 2.5k while you keep an eye on the coolant level and fans. 

 

The coolant may back up and come out of the expansion tank just keep it topped up/ on max and keep an eye on the level for 1/2 days after bleeding. 

16 hours ago, RichieXR2 said:

 

 

I was asking about the stat because you said one of the hose connections wasn't a 90 degree. 

 

Yes mate get the temp to max and blower off or on the lowest setting and get someone to hold the revs at 2.5k while you keep an eye on the coolant level and fans. 

 

The coolant may back up and come out of the expansion tank just keep it topped up/ on max and keep an eye on the level for 1/2 days after bleeding. 

Oh yer i asked Skoda to send me a pic of the thermostat to see if it looked like the correct one, however the diagram didnt show a 90 degree bend...

ALthough after ordering it and collecting it, it did have that bend so was a like for like swap out

Will test the car on weekend and let you know how i got on

Car is still on ramps atm because im doing the brakes. Accidentally popped out one of the pistons (front left caliper) I have put it back in and got myself an eezibleed and will attempt a flush through of new dot 4 fluid. If that goes well i will then test out thermostat

Forgot to mention. New stat worked a treat. gets to 90 degrees from cold in only 2 miles.

cheers for all your help much appreciated.