Jump to content

Complete rear brakingsystem replaced


Citigo2032

Recommended Posts

I have finally done both rear brakes. Replaced all parts, except the drum.

I did also print out a dust cap for the torx screw that holds the pistons in place. The printed material is flexible and fits tight to the head of that screw - just to prevent dirt stacking up in there till next repair. I had some hard time cleaning this before the torx key (30 size) fitted well. Don't need to do that next time.

 

I did it easiest in this order:

1: Removed the piston by unscrew the torx and the braking tube.

2: Removed the two small nails that goes through the shoes, with those springs and caps.

3: Forced the lower part out before removing the bottom spring. Surprisingly easy with a little force.

4: Removed the upper small spring.

5: Pulled rest of the assambly easily out.

6: Unhook the hand brake wire.

 

Fitting new parts in this order:

1: Fitted the upper horizontal bar with the large upper spring into one shoe first. I used a screw clamp to pull the shoe in right place.

2: Put the adjustment wedge in place. (You can do this later, but then you need to force the shoes apart to make enough space to put that part in place).

3: Fitted the next shoe into the other side of the bar. Take care of the hand brake lever, and how you fit this lever into the upper bar.

4: Fitted the small upper spring (in front), and the adjustment wedge spring.

5: Hook in the hand brake wire. Somewhat hard, but possible.

6: Put this assambly in place.

7: Hooked on the lower large spring.

8: Forced the shoes back in to place at the bottom.

9: Hook on the adjustment wedge spring into the shoe.

10: Fitted the nails, springs and caps.

11: Fitted the piston.

 

Before putting the drum back on, push up the adjustment wedge as far as possible to make enough space for the drum to fit easily. As soon as you push the braking pedal, the wedge refit itself into position.

 

Important!

Put back the drum BEFORE you do any attemt to remove air from the braking fluid. If not, the pistons will pop out while in great tension from the upper springs. Not good.

 

01-old.jpg

02-old.jpg

03-old.jpg

04-removed old.jpg

05-old shoes.jpg

06-new shoes.jpg

07-new installed.jpg

08-new.jpg

09-new.jpg

10-new.jpg

11-piston screw.jpg

12-piston screw cap.jpg

13-piston screw cap fit.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • ColinD pinned this topic
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Was there any chance of removing the shoes and springs without removing the cylinder  and without removing the hub nut?

 

Check the OP profile...he did this I think because his brakes were jamming ...and they would be jamming because they were not retarding properly  on the wedge.  And maybe because he was reversing...causing the different direction of travel to put a different force onto the shoes which had not retarded..

 

I think I would rather undo the hub nut than remove the cylinder.  Got to get me one of those 12 point sockets...I think it is a 30mm - 12 point

Edited by A01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.