Got a fabia mk1 vrs and I'm gonna fit an airtec FMIC.

 

I understand that to get the full potential of the FMIC I should get a remap but I'm just checking that I will be able to run a front mount without a map for a while as I'm looking to fit a hybrid turbo in the near future so would ideally wait until that is fitted before I get a remap as it's more cost effective.

Edited 30 January, 20179 yr by hugh130

No you don't need to remap.

I did a couple of thousand miles before I bought a bigger turbo, same boat as you really, and had no issues. The only difference (in my opinion, may well of been a pseudo feeling) seemed to be a longer and more constant 'pull' from the standard turbo. I very rarely ever got up to the hard driving required to heatsoak the original cooler. But the problem is solved with a fmic.

 

Make sure you have the correct coupler to mate the new boost pipe with the standard turbo pipe, was the only issue I had when fitting the fmic with a standard blower. 

 

You've bought a good piece of kit in the airtec, gets good reviews. Get your hacksaw/angle grinder/cutting weapon of choice ready for that bumper, slam panel and crash bar! 

 

Also, don't forget to wire up your radiator, to something solid, before you remove the slam panel. 

 

JRJG 

FMIC will simply allow you drive your car harder for longer without losing power, it won't actually gain you any power because diesels are unlike petrols inasmuch as that it's extra fuel which gives extra power rather than extra oxygen from a cooler denser charge. Once you have a bigger turbo stuffing significantly more air into the engine then you'll benefit from these mods.

Forget all that crap that you thought you knew from petrol engines, diesels are totally different.

+1 for the airtec

 

Just finished mine. If you buy a 45 degree alloy pipe and silicone elbow it finishes off top nicely.

 

I had issues with the plastic pipe popping off after fitting and turns out lugs were worn on the coupling on black pipe off egr asv.  Looks good now and sounds good to.

 

G 

Could you possibly post some links for the parts I'll need to connect the new boost pipe to the turbo pipe that'd be great! Thanks 

If you have the standard turbo the airtec kit comes with everything you need to fit it, no extra coupler required.

Yup ^^ everything in it. Great bit of kit but a bit of fiddling.   

Kaye's performance did mine for £454 and after it had been powder coated it was posted straight away.  Just ask them for discount.

Alternative is the companies on here, might do brisk deal??  

 

Darksides Fmic is real nice, just a bit more pennies, however if you buy your turbo else where they wont help you after. If you do get it from them the service is A1.

 

You wont believe the sound after airtec is fitted, especially with the hybrid. I was grin grin grin.

Graffiti you've obviously fitted this airtec kit because have you got any advice on how to lengthen the wiring that goes to the sensor on the top boost pipe?

25 minutes ago, hugh130 said:

Graffiti you've obviously fitted this airtec kit because have you got any advice on how to lengthen the wiring that goes to the sensor on the top boost pipe?

To be honest if you pull the poppers holding loom that runs up around coolant tank including carefully slicing the tape holding loom in plastic housing around coolant tank you will get enough slack.  Cut the tape to just bfore where it runs around coolant tank.

 

You need an extra wee bit for engine movement.  I gained loads of slack.

 

Polybush dogbone mount will stop a lot of engine rock if your still worried.

9 hours ago, hugh130 said:

Graffiti you've obviously fitted this airtec kit because have you got any advice on how to lengthen the wiring that goes to the sensor on the top boost pipe?

Some people lengthen the wire, using speaker wire or something similar. Nothing too thick as you may affect the currency going to and from the sensor, I would imagine it is quite a delicate item.

Graffiti 's suggestion seems simpler and if it has worked then I don't see why you would need to do anything different.

JRJG

7 minutes ago, Jrjg said:

Some people lengthen the wire, using speaker wire or something similar. Nothing too thick as you may affect the currency going to and from the sensor, I would imagine it is quite a delicate item.

 

Thicker wire conducts better, not worse and I cleaned my MAP sensor with a toothbrush in some petrol, so not very delicate at all really.

I have the airtec kit, which I fitted myself, and didn't need to lengthen the map sensor wires. 

14 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Thicker wire conducts better, not worse and I cleaned my MAP sensor with a toothbrush in some petrol, so not very delicate at all really.

Of course, just remembering now some amplifier wiring... thick as my thumb.
Wouldn't a thicker/thinner wire than originally intended affect the current as originally intended, therefore affect the sensor's readings? That is what I meant by delicate.

JRJG

7 minutes ago, Jrjg said:

Of course, just remembering now some amplifier wiring... thick as my thumb.
Wouldn't a thicker/thinner wire than originally intended affect the current as originally intended, therefore affect the sensor's readings? That is what I meant by delicate.

JRJG

 

Nah, they make it thin for cost and flexibility, it's cheap rubbish, use anything you like to extend the loom, cheap speaker wire is just fine and dandy and better than the OE junk in the loom. The MAP sensor is a solid-state device and extremely robust, unlike the MAF which is incredibly fragile.

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Nah, they make it thin for cost and flexibility, it's cheap rubbish, use anything you like to extend the loom, cheap speaker wire is just fine and dandy and better than the OE junk in the loom. The MAP sensor is a solid-state device and extremely robust, unlike the MAF which is incredibly fragile.

Interesting!
Thank you for clarifying.

JRJG

11 hours ago, jars said:

I have the airtec kit, which I fitted myself, and didn't need to lengthen the map sensor wires. 

 

What turbo you running Jars? And power? Boost? 

 

It's a hybrid with a billet compressor wheel. Not sure what power, but the mapper restricted it to 1.9bar as I still have a standard clutch, for now. 

 

Their best guess is about 190-200 horses with somewhere near 300 torque. 

13 minutes ago, jars said:

It's a hybrid with a billet compressor wheel. Not sure what power, but the mapper restricted it to 1.9bar as I still have a standard clutch, for now. 

 

Their best guess is about 190-200 horses with somewhere near 300 torque. 

 

1749V?  Same turbo I just put on with billet wheel...  Hows it feel? Quick quick??  

The turbo started it's life as a PD150, couldn't tell you exactly what. 

 

It's no 10-second car, but quick enough to loose my licence very quickly. 

 

No disrespect to the mapper, but it's not an overly smooth map, I guess to protect the clutch, but there is a lovely surge when it properly kicks in at around 3k rpm. There is a nice scream with the 3" exhaust I have straight from the turbo

 

 

2 hours ago, jars said:

The turbo started it's life as a PD150, couldn't tell you exactly what. 

 

It's no 10-second car, but quick enough to loose my licence very quickly. 

 

No disrespect to the mapper, but it's not an overly smooth map, I guess to protect the clutch, but there is a lovely surge when it properly kicks in at around 3k rpm. There is a nice scream with the 3" exhaust I have straight from the turbo

 

 

 

Man im counting down to 21st march!!!

I did my clutch etc so hoping for 200bhp