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TDI servicing + oil extraction thoughts.


TD5

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Hi folks, 


For the past 4 years I've been very lucky to have an excellent professional mechanic and friend of mine service my Yeti.  For £30 for the total labour charge (at a main dealership facility) I've technically had the TDI Yeti "over serviced" (Complete filter replacement with Longlife Mobil 1 - parts provided by me) every 6,000 miles.  The Yeti is currently on 31,000 miles. It's been that cheap!

The Yeti is also the first car I've owned from 0 miles and it's a keeper due to the sheer practicality of the motor and the £ in modifications (Stage 2 tuning package by Shark performance and Darkside Developments)

 

Unfortunately, due to serious health reasons, my friend has had to completely retire from all mechanic duties.  I've been rather frustrated to find that the highest regarded independent garages in my area are refusing to service my Yeti if I want to supply my own parts and oil.  Reasons being "we are completely responsible for any parts we install to your vehicle. If your filter fails etc it is our liability"  Which I respect.  I mean, it's their company, their reputation... but when was the last time a top quality/sealed branded oil mullered an engine, or a genuine part fuel, oil or air filter killed a motor? :dull:  

 

I have about 2 service worth of oil and filters that are technically going to go to waste.  CBA selling them on etc.  Got them at a good price too.  

 

I'm fairly technically minded but like things to be done right. Using the proper, pukka Land Rover Workshop manual (way more in-depth than a Haynes guide) Every nut and bolt is tightened to the exact NM and checks carried out. I know you can "feel" and "nip" most parts as a rule but I like to be bang on and forget about it.  

 

To cut to the chase, after being turned away from all highly regarded independent garages I'd like to carry out interim services on my Yeti to continue keeping the running costs down and leave the "big jobs" (cambelt etc) to the professionals. 

 

What hardware/Software will I need?

 

1) On the 63 plate 1.6 TDI greenline Yeti, what hardware would I need to reset the Maxidot service schedule... I don't mind the "service now!" message on startup as long as it doesn't change any running calibrations in the ECU.  Is a small cheap diagnostic ok or is Vagcom desirable.  

 

2) Oil extraction equipment.  Getting under the Defender is a doddle with no jacking required but for the Yeti I was thinking about a branded 2.5tn Sealey ramp but I just cba.  Searching the net and different forums it appears that oil extraction is becoming increasingly popular.  Even with draining the oil via the sump plug it appears there's still a fair bit of oil hiding in there, the drainage systems seem to get nearly all out of the sump with a satisfying straw like slurpppp at the end.  After all, as most people said, how do you think people service prestige boat engines etc... does the job.  Does anyone know if it's unadvisable that the 1.6 TDI isn't drained this way.  From my research I've gathered surprisingly that some manufacturers do this with a genuine service (never using the drainplug), some manufacturers outright state that the sump isn't correctly configured to allow this and must not be attempted. 

 

del.thumb.jpg.d89f7e4cf36dd3c9dc1a7504affb372c.jpg        Is there a specific brand/model that you use for a dipstick extraction?

3) Generic servicing manual.  Can anyone recommend a decent servicing manual providing correct torque settings etc for jobs, is there anything out there bespoke for the Yeti...or is a Haynes manual for the Golf 1.6 VAG TDI the same?

 

Anyway, any advice on the above would be much appreciated.  Thanks a bunch for your time. :)

 

 

  

Edited by TD5
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Simply when removing the oil via the dipstick tube with the suitable equipment for removing hot oil also then replace the sump plug with a new one and that is the last of the oil out the sump.

Edited by Awayoffski
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11 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

Simply when removing the oil via the dipstick tube with the suitable equipment for removing hot oil also then replace the sump plug with a new one and that is the last of the oil out the sump.

 

Hi Awayoffski,  I don't quite understand :)  I'm trying to avoid getting under the Yeti and removing the sump plug at all.  If I could get under it easily like with the Land Rover I would as I don't mind any mess etc it's just for ease of oil extraction and safety really.  I know the sump plug is the preferred method but not easy for the home mechanic.  

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I totally agree with yout Awayoffski, in an ideal situation I would do the whole sump plug removal like with my other diesel.  My ethos is when it goes for a major service it can have a sump plug drop treat :)  Just wondering how many folks on here use the vacuum method...  and recommend using it it if you've had one too many ales at the local and need a clearout :D 

Edited by TD5
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Sorted....almost. 

 

Bought a Pela 6000 oil extraction device from a Marine shop on the net.  

32mm socket etc all ready. 

 

Now I just need folks recomendations for resetting the service schedule on the 1.6 tdi.  

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You don't need any hardware to reset the service reminder message : take a look at the user's manual, you should find the procedure to follow step by step. Quite easy, kinda like just turning the key, pressing and holding trip button for X seconds, etc.

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Hmmm... :/ Well I did the service this weekend, no dramas.  The fuel filter was the most fiddly and messy but some pre prep saved the spills.  As I don't have VCDS (yet) I simply filled the fuel filter housing up with more diesel to minimise the amount of air for purging as I couldn't do it digitally. 

 

Couldn't drop the sump plug from this Pela extraction as you mentioned.  This will be the Yeti's 4th service and I'd hope any new engine nasties would be dropped by now. 

 

70.1 mpg over windy roads/hoofing at times sounds like it's ok :)

 

 

 

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On 6/18/2017 at 22:22, TD5 said:

Hmmm... :/ Well I did the service this weekend, no dramas.  The fuel filter was the most fiddly and messy but some pre prep saved the spills.  As I don't have VCDS (yet) I simply filled the fuel filter housing up with more diesel to minimise the amount of air for purging as I couldn't do it digitally. 

 

Couldn't drop the sump plug from this Pela extraction as you mentioned.  This will be the Yeti's 4th service and I'd hope any new engine nasties would be dropped by now. 

 

70.1 mpg over windy roads/hoofing at times sounds like it's ok :)

 

 

 

what kind of fuel filter is it? i'm looking to change it on my one an it's a whole unit. Did you just poured diesel in it? 

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I've tried the Pela 650 but wasn't that impressed as there was still a fair amount of dirty oil in the sump when the plug was removed. There is a lot less mess though using a vacuum but I think it is more to do with convenience rather than effectiveness. I'm still the type to run a little clean oil through before installing the sump plug back. 

 

With the fuel filter I do the same and fill as much as I can prior to fitting which makes it much quicker to prime.  

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10 hours ago, Bertie90 said:

what kind of fuel filter is it? i'm looking to change it on my one an it's a whole unit. Did you just poured diesel in it? 

 

Basically it's a long cylindrical filter with a hollow middle which simply clicks onto a pipe from above which draws it upwards.  When adding more fuel to compensate for the air the filter seemingly bobs about in the fuel canister. Once you push the top down it immediately connects to the filter.  You can lift the lid vertically to double check. All went hunky-dory :)  There's some pretty horrendous "how to" guides on youtube that made me cringe.  Thought I did a pretty decent job tbh. For a noob!

Edited by TD5
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4 hours ago, cheshire_cat said:

sump plug may be quicker sometimes (especially in winter) but vac is good for emptying the oil filter housing -and cooler?    there's an awful lot in there

 

Yeah, I liked that element to it.  Managed to extract that bit more from within the oil filter housing.  It would just be recirculated otherwise.  For a major service I'll have the sump plug dropped by the pro's. In the meantime, this method will essentially allow me to "over-service" the Yeti in a cost effective manner. Perhaps every 5,000 miles.  Quality filters are relatively cheap and so it a top branded oil... when you think of the price of a full tank of diesel these days :/  Think how much of a job the oil does...

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I always use the drain plug method,I use a little syringe plus plastic tube to clear out any remaining oil in filter housings etc.

On engines with an 'upright' type oil filter - I always remove the filter first to allow any filter housing oil to drain into the sump first and then I  remove the sump plug.

I have never as yet felt the need to use flushing oil on an engine but then again I do regular oil changes.

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