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fabia 2003 combi wires diagram help

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After searching deep for the J293, I could not find them.:dry::dry:
So put a 50A relays for low and high fan stage.

and for the AC system,i put 2 diodes (1n4007) from j301 to relays and its wock just fine.:wub::wub:

even the AC compressor was in a bad condition and there was no oil in it,So I've fixed it and cleaned it and it came back as new:laugh::laugh:

at the end
I have finished this car,:whew:

so I would like to thank everyone who helped me.
thank you all

:handshake:

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Well done :)

  • Author

Thanks, my friend :biggrin:

Excellent, now you can take in orders for refurbishing compressors!  How much oil did you add back in, as most of the oil, I'd think, would have moved out and along into the pipework/evap/cond?  

  • Author
On ١‏/٩‏/٢٠١٧ at 13:20, rum4mo said:

Excellent, now you can take in orders for refurbishing compressors!  How much oil did you add back in, as most of the oil, I'd think, would have moved out and along into the pipework/evap/cond?  

I did not rebuild the compressor, but just cleaned and installed it.

I could not figure out the correct amount of compressor oil, because the compressor model number does not exist.
So I cleaned the whole air conditioner circuit with compressed air to remove the remaining oil.
Then I searched for the correct amount of oil and found that there are different types of compressor air conditioner and each compressor needs a quantity different from the other and the difference is big, there is compressor need 80 cm of oil and another compressor needs 140 cm of oil.
So I added the number between these two numbers (110 cm).
I hope that this will not adversely affect the work of the air conditioning system, but I have no other choice.:laugh:

(Note)
When I unplugged the compressor I could not find oil in it.

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/heating_air_conditioning/heating_air_conditioning/air_conditioner/contents/refrigerant_oil/

 

I'd guess it would be a Denso compressor, I would think that what you have done is okay, I think if you add in too much oil it would just reduce the cooling effect of the system, not enough oil might cause the Compressor trouble. I was looking into this when I thought that I would need to replace a compressor like that one. What was written in the instructions that came with the new Denso compressor was, it had been filled with, lets say, 184gms of oil when built. When you remove a failed compressor that has not contaminated its connected system, you drain all the oil from the old compressor and weigh it - record this weight. Now drain enough oil out of the new compressor until in theory it only has the same weight left in it as the old compressor held initially then fit the new one.

  • Author

True words, I even heard this way to fill the oil.

The air conditioning system gives a temperature of 4 to 8 degrees Celsius.
I think this is excellent and can not give better conditioning than that.

 

Yes, I was just passing on that compressor manufacturer's information as I had recently read it. It would have been "good" if you had replaced the drier assembly, but maybe, living in a dryer hotter country than we live in in UK you might have got away without doing that, if you find your system stops cooling now and again, it might be that pellets of ice have collected and are limiting the movement of gas round the system, good result!

  • Author

Thank you rum4mo.
True, we do not have spare parts to repair cars because of the siege imposed on our country.
But we still repair cars by improvising or switching between different car parts:laugh:

I have done a vacuum before filling the gas so there is no moisture in the system, so how snow balls will happen inside the air-conditioning system?

The trouble is, at certain times during the chiller operation, some zones inside the pipe work will be down at very low temperatures and any moisture, water vapour, will drop out and freeze, that is fact and that is why all these AC systems, as well as being evac'd prior to backfilling with hopefully virgin and so dry R134a will still have low levels of moisture in them, what the drier core does is to "strip and retain" any moisture still in the system. Now, after opening a system, the drier will saturate and so not be able to "strip" any more moisture out, ie any moisture entering the system while it was broken open for this repair. 

I fully understand your situation with respect to the "trade siege" and you have done very well. The ability to repair things in our free and easy Western world does tend to get ignored but I still like the challenge as I lived on a small island when I was young, so getting things delivered and repaired was not easy at all!

I'm sure that you will not see things this way, but one advantage you have at the moment, is being protected/isolated from the "consumer" age where big business does want all of your money and it wants it all now!

 

Edit:- I'd also think that there is not much that you could do to "re-generate" that drier as there will be too much plastic in it so that would stop you heating it up by much - and then pull a vacuum for a long period - years go we used to try to re-generate driers and they were just air driers for use in a production facility during testing phases, that AC drier will also have lots of oil mist locked up in it and that will not be easy to get moisture out of.

Edited by rum4mo

  • Author

Nice words
I wanted to change the dryer but I could not find it, so I did a cleaning of the circuit using compressed air, so that the dirt inside the air conditioning system might come out.
So far the air conditioner has been working well for several days.

Note:
So I like the challenge and the improvisation and I like to fix the cars myself and I love the problems that need time and experience to solve.:smoke:

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