Have racechip changed the throttle response?

[hpoom]

Was just browsing the site considering a Racechip again and looks like the Throttle Response had had a revamp.

 

https://www.racechip.co.uk/shop/skoda/superb-3v-from-2015/2-0-tsi-1984ccm-280hp-206kw-380nm.html

[freelunch]

I'm interested in the throttle tuning, and that has changed shape and added a mobile phone app as an option. The revamp includes Brexit pricing, too.

[BillyJim]

Yes, looks like a major redesign with rotary control instead of the old +/- touch buttons plus a separate box rather than the previous all-in-one box. The option of using an app on your phone to control it strikes me as an unnecessary gimmick unless you're paranoid and want to keep the physical controller well hidden.

They have added a seventh position, N, which I'm guessing is Neutral or Normal and might possibly be the same as effectively turning off the older device, thereby returning the car to the default settings.

And not surprisingly there's a small price increase which may not be entirely due to exchange rates considering it has more physical hardware and the inclusion of BT!

 

I also notice they've reduced the claimed increase of HP/PS of the Ultimate tuning box by about 15 since I bought mine a year ago but the claimed torque increase remains the same.

It could of course be that they've just acknowledged there's a difference between UK Horse Power and German Pferde Stärke.

[Lol6]

I presume the rationale making the rotary control detachable is to make it easier to store.  

 

When I looked at the website it appears the app is not available for a 150 tdi whether you want it or not.  

 

I would like to buy one but my insurers are being unresponsive.  If they seek to charge me I will be less than impressed.

[hpoom]

Anybody know what the blanking plate is for to the right of the steering wheel and left of the lights control?

 

I am considering mounting the XLR dial there, can anybody see an issue with this plan?

[BillyJim]

I can't see that as a problem if you can keep the cable tidy. I had mine mounted to the left of the steering wheel as it was the only convenient place I could mount it without the steering wheel, stalks and column obscuring it.

With the warm weather, now dearly departed, I found the glue used on the velcro was becoming soft and often got into the car to find the controller sat in the footwell. I've now moved the controller to the small pull-out tray to the right of the steering wheel, fixed to the back panel of the tray with the velcro.

If you're like me you'll find a setting you're most comfortable with for your own style of driving and leave it on that setting. That means it's not necessary to have it instantly accessible and can be 'tucked out of the way'.

[hpoom]

I am just looking for somewhere to mount it while I try settings.

 

Once I find one I like I will do the same and store it in the tray on the right.

 

I am also just curious as to what that blanking plate is for.

Edited 30 July, 2017 by hpoom

[Danny77]

Presumably when you install one of these, it's recorded within the vehicle computer?  I'd consider one, but I'm just thinking about the warranty and the fact I've got the car on PCH....

 

[freelunch]

I'm about to click the button on a throttle controller. I've seen two that are the same price: the RaceChip XLR, which comes as two elements – a "Brainbox" and a controller; and the DTUK Pedal Box Plus, which comes as a single unit. Do any you actual users have a preference? Do you think one is better quality than the other? TIA.

[sherlocks VRS]

Ive got the dtuk ultimate tuning box and throttle controller fitted to my sportline and its transformed the car into what it should have come from the factory like,

[BillyJim]

3 hours ago, freelunch said:

Do any you actual users have a preference? Do you think one is better quality than the other? TIA.

A year ago I would have said the RaceChip as it was more customisable than the DTUK unit offered at that time but both products have since been updated and I doubt there's not much difference now between the two.

I also doubt you'll find any member that has fitted both new versions to the same car and could therefore give you a definitive answer.

Just look through the multitude of posts on the subject and you'll see users of either device are satisfied with their choices, so the difference seems to be mostly aesthetic and that rests firmly in your court.

[freelunch]

Thanks. I'll let my wallet make the decision. The DTUK seems to be the better value, less parts and the same German product that PedalBox sell, but cheaper with the "new site introductory offer" on right now. I think I'll go for it.

 

(edit) Done. The "bargain" price is on until 21 August, if anyone else is interested. I'll let you know how I get on. It better be as easy as they say, because I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination! 

Edited 18 August, 2017 by freelunch

[penguin17]

24 minutes ago, freelunch said:

Thanks. I'll let my wallet make the decision. The DTUK seems to be the better value, less parts and the same German product that PedalBox sell, but cheaper with the "new site introductory offer" on right now. I think I'll go for it.

 

(edit) Done. The "bargain" price is on until 21 August, if anyone else is interested. I'll let you know how I get on. It better be as easy as they say, because I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination! 

I think the special 'new website special price' is exactly the same as the old website price.  

[freelunch]

You know me – I'm a sucker for a sales pitch. Still it's cheaper than buying the same product from the Germans.

[penguin17]

2 minutes ago, freelunch said:

You know me – I'm a sucker for a sales pitch. Still it's cheaper than buying the same product from the Germans.

You think ze Germans are having your eyes out, look at TMC and their prices.  They don't even include the VAT 

[ionelmc]

2 year engine warranty - so basically in two years your turbo will fail?

 

But now seriously, does anyone have long-term use of this stuff?

[BillyJim]

1 hour ago, ionelmc said:

2 year engine warranty - so basically in two years your turbo will fail?

 

But now seriously, does anyone have long-term use of this stuff?

Oh dear, you seem to have your facts mixed up again .

The engine warranty only applies to specific engine tuning boxes from RaceChip (AFAIK DTUK warranty their tuning boxes but not the engine), but tuning boxes are not the subject of this thread.

Neither RaceChip nor DTUK warranty the engine with their respective pedal controllers, only the actual modules. There's no need as these devices alter the engine's power and torque output by an earth-shattering 0%.

 

That leads me to one minor concern I have with DTUK's generic "Increase in up to 40% in power + Increases of up to 40% in power and torque, and up to a 20% improvement in fuel economy are achievable as well as a reduction in CO2 emissions helping you to save money and reduce your carbon footprint." that appears on their pedal box pages but is actually only valid for their tuning boxes, which they fail to mention, so could be misleading if anybody doesn't read the actual specifications and thinks that applies to their pedal boxes.

 

As to your serious question: I've been using a RaceChip Throttle Response and RaceChip Ultimate tuning box for over a year on my 280, which is probably as long-term as you'll currently get for a Superb III. What do you want to know?

But before you ask for a dynamometer report for the tuning box - I haven't had one done and will probably never bother having one done. For me it's a stop-gap until my manufacturer's warranty expires next year at which time I'll seriously consider foregoing the tuning box for a proper stage 1 software or stage 2 software+hardware professional remap, assuming I decide to keep the car a few more years.

[ionelmc]

1 hour ago, BillyJim said:

What do you want to know?

How many km driven, and if there were any failures or problems with engine and transmission?

[BillyJim]

 

43 minutes ago, ionelmc said:

How many km driven, and if there were any failures or problems with engine and transmission?

 

Approximately 20,000 kilometres since fitting both devices.

 

The Throttle Response controller was replaced under warranty about 9 months ago after it started to inexplicably and randomly send the engine into safe mode. Stopping and restarting the engine would clear it. It was possibly due to a batch component fault as I know of at least two other members who had to have theirs replaced for the same reason. The replacement unit has been flawless.

 

The increased engine power generated by the tuning box could occasionally cause the DSG to make sharp/jerky gear changes in the lower gears when applying pedal-to-the-metal harsh acceleration but that was remedied by fitting a Dogbone Mount insert. After fitting this insert the DSG is actually smoother now than it was before I fitted the two devices.

[freelunch]

I received my PedalBox Plus this morning and installed it this afternoon. On the plus side: I started off on "white" (stock mode) which imparts no attenuation to the throttle pedal. So far, so normal. Then, I selected "City mode", which is the least amount of attenuation, and plus 2. Immediately, I could feel the initial throttle lag had disappeared. It's more like a motorcycle throttle than a foot pedal. Nice. I only had a brief amount of time to play, so I'll try the more extreme modes on a later occasion. Looking forward to it, too.

 

I am happy to spend the money. £189.

 

On the minus side: Whoever said installation is a two-minute job is a contortionist or just has a poor sense of time. I connected the male plug first. Maybe that was a mistake. The connector kept getting in the way of the female plug being positioned over the pedal plug. I was outside the car on my knees trying to reach up and under the dash – had to stop twice to shake out cramp. Heck, I'm fit, too. Almost quit twice, but prevailed and it all worked fine on the first try. No spurious warning lights (the DTUK manual is full of warning/caution statements).

 

As far as removing it before my October service, I don't know if I want to go through all that again! However, next time I will remove the storage compartment prior to doing the connections and I will see if plugging the female end in first makes it easier. I have the controller in the storage compartment. It's a bit of a squeeze to close it, but there's no rattle.

 

The lights on the controller don't go out after the engine is switched off. I hope that's not a drain on the battery?

 

Also, I sensed a slight, very slight graininess in the acceleration just off idle I hadn't noticed before. Don't know if that was just my imagination. And, the engine seems to pick up much quicker coming off stop/start, which is a plus in my book.

[facet edge]

If you remove the storage compartment it is a lot easier as you can see the connector without your head underneath the pedals.

To remove the box lever up the bottom hinge on the left hand side. It resists at first but it is a half clip round the bar and it should pop off.

I fed the wires through the box when it was unclipped and the unit sits nicely in the box out of sight.

[BillyJim]

33 minutes ago, freelunch said:

On the minus side: Whoever said installation is a two-minute job is a contortionist or just has a poor sense of time.

 

That will probably be me but I'm no contortionist! As @facet edge says, removing the storage box is the key. No need to scrabble around in the footwell.

 

I didn't do anything with the hinges on mine. As mentioned in another thread on the same subject I merely eased the rear panel of the storage box beyond the retaining lip/stop as in the photo. It's quite flexible (you don't need to force it) and once clear the storage box virtually falls out giving direct access to the connector at the top of the pedal from above. It may not be the most eloquent method but it works for me!

 

 

With the box fully open feed the controller from behind and reseat the storage box with the cable being fed through the top right. Then, if you feel so inclined, secure the control box to the back panel with velcro to minimise loss of storage space.

 

[freelunch]

I'm always late to the party. For others who may prefer to do things the hard way, it can also be installed the wrong way 'round, as well!

 

Do you PedalBox users turn the unit off after switching off the engine?

[BillyJim]

I don't know about the DTUK but my RaceChip version illuminates the LED when I unlock the car and the LED goes off when I lock the car. I don't switch it off.

[freelunch]

I've only just had my second drive in the car since installing the PedalBox+. I'm still toying with settings. This may be counter-intuitive, but today I set the car in Eco mode for the first time and set the PedalBox to Sport+2. I think this shows promise for driving around town! The MaxiDot display shows E2 just off the line and E (which I assume means the car is coasting) when you take your foot off the pedal. The PedalBox response counters the Eco mode natural sluggishness and micro-movements are enough to get motoring. I like it. 

 

I will have to learn to switch stop/start off when doing a three-point turn out of my normal parking space. The idle forward speed seems a bit faster and wondering when the transmission is gonna hook up can catch you out.

 

Someone was denigrating the cost/value equation for this plug-in bit. I can understand where they are coming from. (Is that "from whence they are coming"?) The PedalBox is a completely unnecessary purchase. The car drives just fine as it comes – you just have to have a heavy foot. But, if you have an extra couple hundred quid burning a hole in your pocket, this toy makes a very noticeable and agreeable improvement to pedal input.

 

I am very happy with my purchase.

Edited 29 August, 2017 by freelunch