Defiant Driveshaft Nut - New Drive Shaft or Just CV Joint?

[OGvRS08]

Was meant to be having some work done on my vRS TDi in preparation for remap but it has all had to stop due a seized draft shaft nut, the garage fear they will mess up the thread which they say means a new drive shaft. Is that true that right, will i need a new drive shaft (OEM from TPS at £190+VAT) or can could i just have a replacement CV joint?

TPS are also saying a OEM shaft will take 2 weeks to be delivered from germany (non available in the UK at present).

 

Alternatively is there anyway i can check or remove the nut myself and then take the car back to them to complete the work - ie: soaking it in WD40 every day, 5m scaff pole/breaker bar, etc... anyone on here know of any tips or tricks people have used to over come a nut that wont shift?

Any help greatfully recieved.

Edited 13 September, 2017 by OGvRS08

[maverick54]

The drive shaft nut is very tight and a breaker bar and length of scaffold pipe about 1 mtr long is the normal way to release the nut. A good soaking with wd40 around the head is usually the way to go before you even attempt to undo it.

Is your nut the 12 point 24mm one? there is also one that uses a large allen key type and I think one with a hexagonal nut.

 

Have the garage already attempted to undo it? If so they have probably already rounded it off?

 

Edited 14 September, 2017 by maverick54

[maverick54]

If it is rounded off and wont budge then yes it will need a new drive shaft.

Edited 14 September, 2017 by maverick54

[OGvRS08]

2 hours ago, maverick54 said:

Is your nut the 12 point 24mm one? there is also one that uses a large allen key type and I think one with a hexagonal nut.

 

Have the garage already attempted to undo it? If so they have probably already rounded it off?

No idea, i left the car with the mapper to do his stuff, he handed it over to the garage next door to remove the DPF and within 30mins i had call to say the nut was siezed and they didnt want to carry on as they were worried they might need a new drive shaft cos of damaging the thread and couldnt order til monday. told them i needed the car so they put it back together and i collected it 30mins later. I will have a look later tonight to see what ive been left with and which nut it is.

so damaging the thread means a new shaft, not just a new CV joint?

[maverick54]

If the bolt cannot be removed due to a damaged head on the bolt then the complete driveshaft complete with the hub must be removed from the car.

 

If could result in a new hub as well as a complete new drive shaft complete with inner & outer cv joints.

 

 

 

 

Edited 14 September, 2017 by maverick54

[CWARD]

6 hours ago, maverick54 said:

The drive shaft nut is very tight and a breaker bar and length of scaffold pipe about 1 mtr long is the normal way to release the nut. A good soaking with wd40 around the head is usually the way to go before you even attempt to undo it.

Is your nut the 12 point 24mm one? there is also one that uses a large allen key type and I think one with a hexagonal nut.

 

Have the garage already attempted to undo it? If so they have probably already rounded it off?

 

 

^ This.

 

As said the nut needs to come off or you're paying another hub too £££

 

[Guest]

Lots of heat and an impact gun should shift it.

[maverick54]

Often does if the bolt head hasn't been damaged to badly. Plenty of heat and impact guns are usually tools of  professionals in garages, luxuries few diy mechanics possess which is the angle I was coming from.

 

Having said that he did take the car to a garage I presume from his original post and maybe their advice on possibly damaging the threads was because they could see no other option than to try that method to loosen the bolt. .

[OGvRS08]

thanks for all the feedback guys.

 

yes the car went to the garage to be worked on - they didnt mention anything about the hub as well, just drive shaft on order in case they damaged the one on the car during removal. this isnt my usual garage the one next to the mapper who is tuning it, my usual guys will look at removing the nut for me and are convinced it should only mean replacing the CV joint not full shaft.

 

another option which im not sure about is i have found a drive shaft of an estate thats done less miles than mine for £30 so dont know where to risk that and if its not need sell it on again??

[CWARD]

I wouldn't replace with a used driveshaft. If it fails then you're going to paying out for another drive shaft and the labour all over again. If they rebuild yours with new bearings and the shaft from used one then fair enough it is basically reconditioned. 

[maverick54]

Notice you keep referring to it as a nut and not a bolt. I was under the impression all the octavias had a bolt. If it is a nut then hotting it up and splitting it off wouldn't be a problem. If its the usual bolt that are fitted to these is not that simple.

 

Good luck with it and please let us know the outcome as it could help other members who come across the same problem.

 

Edited 15 September, 2017 by maverick54

[Guest]

Just an idea if they used a 6 sided socket on a 12 sided bolt, weld a big nut on the bolt head and use that to free it, if the bolt head is chowdered and/or the bolt is a one use stretch item you've nothing to lose.

[Black vRS Oct]

Didnt think it was legal to remove the dpf now as an eagle eyed mot man will fail it?

[T2000]

Have a look at J&R Drivehsafts, bout 30 quid for one and 2 year warranty, I have used a few of their CV joints with no issues.

[rich453]

Original bolts are usually hex with a thick washer and new replacement driveshaft bolts are bi hex with no washer. Once the head of the bolt has been removed this will allow the shaft to be knocked through the hub (other parts will need to be undone and new bolts will be required for assembly as some are stretch bolts) and as the threaded part is not tight it should be able to be unscrewed. A relatively simple task but time consuming. Hence why a garage will opt for shaft replacement.

Good luck with it...

 

[tibiking]

did you manage to remove it ? i got the same thing an  rounded 12 point 23mm bolt ,,  is it an good ide to try one of those bolt exstractors? 

[J.R.]

 

You can take that as a no!

Edited 12 June, 2021 by J.R.

[tibiking]

This is my case here csnt get this bolt to swing. Using an 12 point socket but IT Just keep slipping out :( any ides anyone how to get this bolt out? 

[tibiking]

Will ann bolt exstractors work on this kind of bolt? 

[Guest]

Heat, cold chisel, bolt extractor or try hammering on a smaller sacrificial socket after cleaning off the head for best grip.

[J.R.]

That will not be coming undone as it is with the damage you have already done, forget stud extractors, the bolt extractor in the photo looks to be a small enough section to actually get in there and might be worth the investment.

 

I see only 2 solutions:

 

Carefully chain drilling a series of radially spaced holes going up in sizes until they overlpa and hopefully the bolt head can be detached leaving the thread in the driveshaft which probably would then remove with a very expensive decent stud extractor.

 

Find a larger hex nut and socket that is not too big to fit in the counterbore, bore out the centre of the nut on a lathe until it can be hammered over the damaged 24mm bi-hex, then arc weld them together, the heat alone will probably ensure that it will now undo but you need to improve your technique to stop the socket slipping off which caused the damage that you have.

 

I have to replace my clutch next week, a few days ago I loosened & retightened by drive shaft retaining bolts with a breaker bar and scaffold pole being very carefull not to allow the socket to displace, it would have been easier with a second person helping, it was touch and go as the bolt heads were very corroded after 6 years in what I suspect was a seaside environment.

[tibiking]

Bolt exstractor 22mm did the jobb. Good investment.