Wheel bearing? Seems far fetched that it would be generating so much heat and not making any noise.

but when I jack up the car and try to spin the wheel it does about 1 turn at the most and feels very tight. Other side spins freely for a 4 turns or so.

 

Flexi hoses can collapse internally and act like a one-way valve. Long shot but you never know. I have come across it once or twice.

Ill second TMB's choice, Although, did you put new pads on it? might just be the friction of the new pads if they are ever so slightly too wide, they'll rub down to size soon enough.

 

I have a similar issue at the front as i've said and temperatures are reaching almost 200 degrees, just about to swap out the lot (Strut, bearing, hub, calliper, disk,pads, spring, track rod end etc,  75 degrees dosnt seam too bad to me, but im no mechanic

the point is it should not be getting that much hotter than the other 3 brakes, just wasting fuel. And what happens when im sat on the motorway and it gets to 175 degrees without any brakes applied. 

Im sure it cant be the pad thickness as I have already stated that before the calipers self adjust there is plenty of free movement between the pads and the piston in its fully wound back position.

I think i have now resolved the issue

I replaced the brake line and re bled the system and the calliper is releasing almost as it should now. I can physically see it moving as I apply and release the brake and when i check the temperature of the disc after a drive is it only slightly hotter than the other side 

Thanks for the help I wouldn't have thought the brake line would have been the culprit so I appreciate the support.

 

 

They do start to go with age and perfect excuse for braided hoses if only for the bling factor. At least you can enjoy the weekend now

cant complain 12 years old, and the replacement part was only £13.

I wonder what will be the next job to do lol but will try and enjoy the windy/wet weekend

My one is 12 years old aswell, im sitting here with £100 worth of new parts (dont order from motors in motion, 1st choice parts, they send the wrrong parts in terrible condition!!!, thats another story), and now im sitting here wondering if a £10 brake pipe might be the cause...Ill replace the callipers then if that doesnt work.... ill cry

4 hours ago, clarendon462 said:

cant complain 12 years old, and the replacement part was only £13.

I wonder what will be the next job to do lol but will try and enjoy the windy/wet weekend

 

If it makes you feel better my Sunday will be spent refurbishing the front and rear calipers, discs, handbrake brake drums and drop links on his old Shogun. I foresee lots of swearing and sheared bolts. 

9 hours ago, CWARD said:

 

If it makes you feel better my Sunday will be spent refurbishing the front and rear calipers, discs, handbrake brake drums and drop links on his old Shogun. I foresee lots of swearing and sheared bolts. 

spend a week befor any of this kind of work randomly spraying things with penetrating fluid... i literally spray daily for a week ebfor even attempting any brakes on a 5+ year old car LOL

He’s supposed to have doing this for the last week. Since I got the panic phone call when tried doing it himself only to find the pistons seized solid and covered in rust, along with rubbers in the droplinks split. This is in a car that supposed to have been MOT’d the month before. 

As predicted it was a pig of a job. Only one sheared bolt, which was for an ARB bush bracket. 

Compressed air wouldn’t budge the brake pistons out of the calipers, which was the first time that method had failed. Luckily the calipers could be split as both times the piston had to clamped in a vice and wrestled out. Absolutely no way that car had passed a proper MOT last month. 

22 minutes ago, CWARD said:

As predicted it was a pig of a job. Only one sheared bolt, which was for an ARB bush bracket. 

Compressed air wouldn’t budge the brake pistons out of the calipers, which was the first time that method had failed. Luckily the calipers could be split as both times the piston had to clamped in a vice and wrestled out. Absolutely no way that car had passed a proper MOT last month. 

I do wonder how many MOTs are actually 'valid'. Imagine someone who knows zero about cars and just relies on their MOT to prove the car is safe each year. Something like a stuck piston could have the potential to cause sudden brake failure. I bought a car with a 'dodgy' mot and only because I have the knowledge to work on my own car I managed to find numerous issues which were not in my opinion MOT worthy. Snapped handbrake cable, worn out brake pads, Split ball joint & TRE covers, knackered droplinks, leaking shock absorber, number plate lights out, incorrect headlamp aim, list goes on.

Only thing they flagged on the advisories was the console bushes which were absolutely fine!

I was shocked that it could have passed on MOT a month ago. The pistons were solid and it wasn’t recent rust and probably seized in the previous MOT.  I thought they’d cracked down on dodgy MOTs but obviously not. 

I use a local MOT centre and I know they’re thorough so trust them and as they don’t do any repairs, just the testing, then I know any work required is genuine.