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Re map of my MK3 Octavia vrs deisel


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Thanks for all your help guys, I've just spoken to dtuk and ordered the CRD3. They were kind enough to give me a £30 discount so paid £369 inc delivery which I'm happy with. Should arrive tomorrow but I won't have time to fit it for about 10 days. I'll let you know how I get on with it

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4 minutes ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

 

The only think I could suggest is that maybe a phone call to a tuning company who offer the 230 map, ask some questions.  As i've said I think the torque is delivered on the 230 slightly differently to a 220 and perhaps the d-iff and different exaust might make a difference. 

 

Roger that. I was initially going to go for a custom map to sort out the issues of trying to get some sort of Stage '1.5' compromise, but the prices soar as soon as you mention 'custom'. More research required then, thanks guys!

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6 minutes ago, Ads230 said:

 

Roger that. I was initially going to go for a custom map to sort out the issues of trying to get some sort of Stage '1.5' compromise, but the prices soar as soon as you mention 'custom'. More research required then, thanks guys!

 

I've had a look at the Revo Website, they offer a 220 and a 230 map but the figures look the same. It seems a shame to get a 220 map onto a 230, defeats the object really.

Perhaps a custom map rather than a generic might be the way forward taking into account the e-diff and exhaust 

 

Keep us updated please

 

Edited by Auric Goldfinger
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4 minutes ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

I've had a look at the Revo Website, they offer a 220 and a 230 map but the figures look the same. It seems a shame to get a 220 map onto a 230, defeats the object really.

Perhaps a custom map rather than a generic might be the way forward taking into account the e-diff and exhaust 

 

Keep us updated please

 

 

Does it really matter? 

 

I think the rest of the hardware (bar the exhaust and VAQ) is exactly the same between the 220 and the 230 so the mapped results should be almost exactly the same regardless of the map being off the shelf or custom.

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42 minutes ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

I've had a look at the Revo Website, they offer a 220 and a 230 map but the figures look the same. It seems a shame to get a 220 map onto a 230, defeats the object really.

Perhaps a custom map rather than a generic might be the way forward taking into account the e-diff and exhaust 

 

Keep us updated please

 

 

34 minutes ago, ahenners said:

 

Does it really matter? 

 

I think the rest of the hardware (bar the exhaust and VAQ) is exactly the same between the 220 and the 230 so the mapped results should be almost exactly the same regardless of the map being off the shelf or custom.

 

I don't really know if it matters or not to be honest as my 230 isn't mapped. ( yet ) My only thought is that I bought a 230 for the different Engine power/tourqe/e-diff and the exaust. If your only going to get a 220 map it seems pointless buying a 230 in the first place. I dare say the new 245 is the same engine as the 230 but with different engine software, will there be a special map for that or will it be just a modified 220 map, who knows.........

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1 minute ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

 

I don't really know if it matters or not to be honest as my 230 isn't mapped. ( yet ) My only thought is that I bought a 230 for the different Engine power/tourqe/e-diff and the exaust. If your only going to get a 220 map it seems pointless buying a 230 in the first place. I dare say the new 245 is the same engine as the 230 but with different engine software, will there be a special map for that or will it be just a modified 220 map, who knows.........

 

I don't think it makes the 230 pointless; you still get a better exhaust, the VAQ diff and all the extra kit that would have been more expensive if manually added ;)

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Agreed with @ahenners - the additional kit you got with the 230 over the standard VRS was the main reason I bought mine. But, as it was a limited run, there's a bit of a grey area when it comes to the technical differences of tuning between the OEM 220 and 230 setups. I will have a chat with the different garages I'd selected for either APR or Shark, and see what their response is. Otherwise, I'll go to the tuners directly for more info.

 

Looking to finally set up a Project thread so I stop accidentally hijacking threads like @ISQ's (sorry, mate!) - so will share info on there when work finally takes a back-seat over Xmas. 

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On 11/9/2017 at 09:59, ISQ said:

Thanks for all your help guys, I've just spoken to dtuk and ordered the CRD3. They were kind enough to give me a £30 discount so paid £369 inc delivery which I'm happy with. Should arrive tomorrow but I won't have time to fit it for about 10 days. I'll let you know how I get on with it

Did you get it? Have you got it? What do you think?

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2 hours ago, stever750 said:

Did you get it? Have you got it? What do you think?

It arrived on Friday but I'm away on holiday this week so havnt fitted it yet. Monday will be the day of reckoning!! Cant wait, pick the wifes new polo 1.8 Gti up on the sunday then give my car it's little tweak, can't let my wife have a faster car than me 

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I just tried mine on the +2 settings on two of the maps just to check it wasn't going to reject them out of hand. I'm driving  to Cardiff tomorrow, so enough miles to check it's OK. 

Edited by stever750
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On 14/11/2017 at 19:35, stever750 said:

I just tried mine on the +2 settings on two of the maps just to check it wasn't going to reject them out of hand. I'm driving  to Cardiff tomorrow, so enough miles to check it's OK. 

How was the blast to Cardiff? 

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1 hour ago, ISQ said:

How was the blast to Cardiff? 

Well, I went out using  2+2, and switched it back to 1+1 for the last 40 miles or so. Although I had no warning lights, I'm conscious that many other owners have had issues on +2 at some point in time, so found myself holding back slightly, in which case I might as well take the box off. So I switched it back to 1+1 for the last 40 miles or so, partly because I still cannot decide on map 1 or map 2, and frankly pasted it for the last 20 miles. Although off topic, I realise I detest diesel power, the power band is boringly narrow, and it's never quite enough to  safely pass that last car or truck in the line of slow moving traffic; I really miss my Cupra in that respect, which could almost pass anything anywhere anytime.  

 

One thing I have noticed is that on the maxi dot, map 2 shows a much lower fuel eco than map 1, but I have compared the actual brim to brim, and the "mostly map 2" tankful was 45mpg, whereas the last tank on mostly map 2 was only 41.5 - both have been a mix of motorway cruising and cross country. 

 

I'm going to leave it on 1+1 now for a while, I'm confident about giving it full throttle whenever needed, and given my driving tends to be a bit digital, then that's going to be quite a high %age of time for the regular jaunt across mid Wales. If there are no unexpected warning lights, after a few weeks, then I might try +2 setting again. I've had the car since mid September, I checked the odo this evening and it was at 9025 already, so I might just smash the warranty period in the next 14 months or so, not good.

 

My feelings at the moment are that unless you need to try to preserve your engine warranty, or need to be able to remove the device, then a remap is a much better solution. £400 for the box isn't cheap, as good as it is, and that gets you a top dogs remap from Shark or Revo. If Shark get their gluon tech out anytime soon, then it will be an almost no brainer option. £200 used option is a much better solution maybe, even if you risk having older firmware and software, and no support from DTUK, although for £150 you can have the firmware and maps updated to latest release

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Well I had first issue this morning, running 2+1. The coil warning lights flashed up, couldn't stop and restart immediately, but once I could at traffic lights it disappeared. Has run OK in last 5 miles since, but a worrying sign. I'm going to revert back to 1+1 and hope that's error free, but it could be likely that 0 is the most sensible power setting. 

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6 hours ago, stever750 said:

Well I had first issue this morning, running 2+1. The coil warning lights flashed up, couldn't stop and restart immediately, but once I could at traffic lights it disappeared. Has run OK in last 5 miles since, but a worrying sign. I'm going to revert back to 1+1 and hope that's error free, but it could be likely that 0 is the most sensible power setting. 

Warning lights not what you want. To be honest I'm not a massive petrol head all I'm hoping to achieve is more power to make the car a bit more fun. The basic setting will probably be ok for what I want ( I should have bought the instructions with me on holiday so I could read up on the different maps) 

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i've been running 2+1 for 5K miles now no lights nothing like that just nice even power right up to 120 [done very early morning so no traffic on a dual lane motorway safely], so i don't know what Steve is talking about? 

 

Steve, i'm afraid your expectations have been ruined by driving a rocket ship, i cant understand why you would switch 'down' to a diesel and complain and compare the two unless you want fuel economy but you haven't compared economy with your hot Cupra yet? or i may have missed that thread. It does seem the FL version seems to be a bit more sensitive to the map changes as those EMLs are coming on at lower settings although my car is at 47K and a bit better broken in.

 

Anyway i digress, there was bags more torque and power left but i'm not keen on losing my license [again]. 

 

I had several instances of throttle flutter [no EMLs on the dash though] using MAP 1+0 and 1+1. It seems my diesel likes MAP 2 better. I havent even looked at MAP 3 yet. 3/4 of my driving is Motorway and the last 1/4 is on a straight 10 mile stretch of B road where it requires a lot of overtaking of slower farm and transport traffic. My biggest gripe is the same as everyone else that there isn't even a hint of what the maps are set up for so if your new to tuning it is frustrating with all the trial and error and not a good marketing strategy for DTUK.

Edited by JohnnyType2
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14 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

i've been running 2+1 for 5K miles now no lights nothing like that just nice even power right up to 120 [done very early morning so no traffic on a dual lane motorway safely], so i don't know what Steve is talking about? 

 

Steve, i'm afraid your expectations have been ruined by driving a rocket ship, i cant understand why you would switch 'down' to a diesel and complain and compare the two unless you want fuel economy but you haven't compared economy with your hot Cupra yet? or i may have missed that thread. It does seem the FL version seems to be a bit more sensitive to the map changes as those EMLs are coming on at lower settings although my car is at 47K and a bit better broken in.

 

Anyway i digress, there was bags more torque and power left but i'm not keen on losing my license [again]. 

 

I had several instances of throttle flutter [no EMLs on the dash though] using MAP 1+0 and 1+1. It seems my diesel likes MAP 2 better. I havent even looked at MAP 3 yet. 3/4 of my driving is Motorway and the last 1/4 is on a straight 10 mile stretch of B road where it requires a lot of overtaking of slower farm and transport traffic. My biggest gripe is the same as everyone else that there isn't even a hint of what the maps are set up for so if your new to tuning it is frustrating with all the trial and error and not a good marketing strategy for DTUK.

Simple, I drive around 40k year and cannot justify 30-32mpg of super plus, so I have little choice financially to choose diesel, remember, I've run a std superb 190 for last 18 months or so, without considering any kind of performance enhancement. What I am doing though is comparing the vrs diesel + box to my mk2 vrs with shark and my mk2 FL estate with shark + sts. Both were much better in every way than the box is, even adjusting for the fact I'm comparing diesel to petrol, but neither had flutters or hesitation, let alone warning lights flash on. Don't get me wrong, for £200 used its a good way of increasing performance slightly, not sure if pay close on £400 when a similar priced remap is so much better, but of course you get the dreaded TD1 flag.... 

 

At the end of the day you pays your money for what suits you, but it's slightly concerning that so many users have issues on seemingly random power settings, and I don't accept its simply down to a huge variation in mass produced car manufacturering. The industry simply isn't that flimsy. You're right, it makes no sense: you can hammer around in 2+1, but I get coil warning lights on. I can hammer around in 1+2 and nothing, well yet anyway. Even on +3 that I tried briefly it's quick but not express train quick, these things are highly subjective unless you've experienced a wide range of performance. My feeling is that it's great for a moderate performance tweak using the 0 power setting so you know it won't trip up a sensor somewhere, and knowing you've probsbly shaved a couple or so of seconds to the ton over standard. YouTube is full of the 0-60 comparisons that quantify it, from what I've seen the boxed versions are only around 10mph faster Vmax over standard, yet a 55bhp increase should give more than that!

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vmax is a bit of a red herring, you can take a 550hp fully forged Superb, it'll will 'only' do 177mph compared to a much less powerful 184hp Octavia diesel and stick a 55hp tuning box and do 149mph. The Superb should go a lot faster than its 280hp stock version? 155mph? not a big difference at all so the higher the vmax the exponentially more HP you need to get there. 10mph more is pretty respectable in my book.

 

40k is a lot of miles in anyone's books. i guess you pay your money and take your choice. Im very happy with the DTUK box and the portability is the thing that swings it for me for services etc.. for me the performance differences on paper aren't great enough to go to the hassle of flashing the ecu when i can get similar performance from PnP tuning box. Its time consuming i have to take off work bring the car in to the tuners and wait a few hours etc. etc

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I guess my point is, and without putting it on a couple of sets of rollers I can't be sure, but I'll bet a year's salary it's nowhere near 240bhp or 500Nm. Everything else absolutely agree, that's why I'm using one. 

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i have mine on the roller at 236bhp at the wheels, with program 2+2 and no EML. 420nm was advertised? i think 500 was the dsg safe limit without a remapp of that too?,

 

i was getting 412nm. I'm testing on a different dyno on a track day soon so ill post both sets for comparison when that happens 

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236 is impressive. The dtuk site claims 240/500

Yours are interesting numbers, higher power and lower torque than you might expect for a diesel engine, which supports the view that map 2 has a slightly lower max torque that occurs at higher engine speed, hence good power numbers. 2+2 was becoming my preferred setting until the warning lights flashed on, as I prefer that torque profile. Plus, a lower max torque figure is less harmful to the drive train over time. 

 

Edited by stever750
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The DSG box that I had in the cupra was fine, although the torque limiter in 1-3 meant that in practice in normal driving 4th gear was the quickest to accelerate in. Nit sure if the octy uses the same gearbox though. 

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5 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

i have mine on the roller at 236bhp at the wheels, with program 2+2 and no EML. 420nm was advertised? i think 500 was the dsg safe limit without a remapp of that too?,

 

i was getting 412nm. I'm testing on a different dyno on a track day soon so ill post both sets for comparison when that happens 

 

236 bhp at the wheels - are you sure? That would be well over 260 at the flywheel! 

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My Skoda Octavia Scout 4x4 184ps 2015 has 231,7PS and 487NM measured on the roller.

Tuner pushed it to 246.2PS and 516,6NM but it started shaking between 1500-2200rpm. The powertrain could not handle it.
So need to check what can be done with that, if I get the time.

 

DSG Stage 1 done as well. So much better.

The old number on both was from another tuner, so you can see the difference between the guys knowing what they do and others.

 

Now it is just pure fun to go driving. And when spring arrives here in Norway I will get the new 50/30 springs from H&R mounted. 
 

Dyno stage 1++.PNG

Dyno stage 1+++.PNG

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