Anybody possibly know what this noise is?

 

So when accelerating or revving the engine it's fine but once you come off the accelerator and the engine is going to idle there is a clicking/ticking noise. It happens when driving too, I notice it everytime I pull up to stop, as soon as I stop accelerating or near enough stop this clicking happens for about 1 second. It's quite loud and noticeable. If you watch the video you will hear it every time the revs stop climbing and the engine lowers its rpm to get ready to idle. The noise seems to be from the rear of the engine area but I could be wrong.

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

 

has a bit of a chain type sound to it, maybe one of the chain guides or something like that?

I am getting worried now!

 

A bit of backstory, the car has 11 months MOT left. It has also been on a diagnostics machine at my trusted mechanic 2 weeks ago for something else and that is clear.

 

The noise has existed about 3-4 weeks now but only when the engine idles down. I still have warranty from the Warranty Group which I got with the car, how should I proceed with this one?

it could be anything from something serious to a loose bolt, you need to get it to a garage so they can pinpoint the noise , its too hard to do from a video, i know the tsi engines had problems with the chains thats what made me think of it

Oh I forgot to say the timing chain, all the fixtures and fittings were changed in 2013 at 61k miles at a Skoda dealership, I have the paperwork for it, the previous owner had it changed.

 

Is this something I should get in touch with the warranty company for or should I pay to have it checked independently and then contact the warranty company?

you will have to read your warranty paperwork , sometimes they want you to put it in and they will repay the garage, other times it has to be put into one of their recommended garages. hopefully you will be covered whatever is wrong.

On 21/12/2017 at 14:39, HarleQuinn said:

Anybody possibly know what this noise is?

 

So when accelerating or revving the engine it's fine but once you come off the accelerator and the engine is going to idle there is a clicking/ticking noise. It happens when driving too, I notice it everytime I pull up to stop, as soon as I stop accelerating or near enough stop this clicking happens for about 1 second. It's quite loud and noticeable. If you watch the video you will hear it every time the revs stop climbing and the engine lowers its rpm to get ready to idle. The noise seems to be from the rear of the engine area but I could be wrong.

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

 

Hi,

 

Did you find out what this noise is? My car has this noise too and it's driving me nuts. 

 

Gaz

1 hour ago, GazVRS1985 said:

Hi,

 

Did you find out what this noise is? My car has this noise too and it's driving me nuts. 

 

Gaz

 

Hi,

 

not yet, my local VWG specialist are off until 2nd January so I need to call them and get it looked at then. It's such a weird and random noise, almost like rapid clicking but only for a second and when engine settles to idle.

25 minutes ago, HarleQuinn said:

 

Hi,

 

not yet, my local VWG specialist are off until 2nd January so I need to call them and get it looked at then. It's such a weird and random noise, almost like rapid clicking but only for a second and when engine settles to idle.

It is strange. I was told it was just a heat shield. Always happens going below 2000 to idle. When car is driven for a good while and up in temperature it seems do die off a bit though. Do you find this too? 

4 hours ago, GazVRS1985 said:

It is strange. I was told it was just a heat shield. Always happens going below 2000 to idle. When car is driven for a good while and up in temperature it seems do die off a bit though. Do you find this too? 

 

Heat shield? Would it really make a noise like that particularly when the car is cold? I can't think why a heat shield would rattle or make odd noises for that one instance whenever it's 2000rpm to idle like you say...

 

I've not driven it long enough recently to notice if the noise dies off with a longer drive sadly.

I had a free exhaust check done my Kwik fit today, they found this noise but diagnosed something loose in the Cat, wasn't sure about this diagnosis at all!

 

Went to an independant garage, they spent 20 mins checking the car and are convinced it is the turbo, the sound seems to be from the turbo itself. Possibly something inside catching when spinning. I have to take it in tomorrow and leave it with them to take it off and inspect. Only had the car about 8 weeks! Got to pay labour for the inspection. The car is under warranty on a RAC gold warranty and the repair limit is the value of the car but this is unexpected and I am worried I am going to get a runaround from warranty and they may try to get out of it.

Just noticed on the warranty it states it doesn't cover failure of parts expected to fail due to age/mileage.

 

The car has just done 100k miles the last few days, what is the age/lifespan of a turbo on a Octavia VRS MK2 F/L TSI?

Edited 3 January, 20188 yr by HarleQuinn

Check for the purge regulator(charcoal canister valve) condition ?

57 minutes ago, docrav46 said:

Check for the purge regulator(charcoal canister valve) condition ?

 

That also rattles for sure but it isn't that. This is a seperate rattle from under the engine sadly :(

Had it looked at today, the garage says the Turbo actuator has gone and has said it'll need a new Turbo, two pipes and an oil and filter change and the price is £1590

 

The warranty people want me to pay to have the turbo removed and sent to them so they can investigate it and make a decision. In no uncertain terms can the car be off the road whilst that is done. What is the point of the RAC warranty saying take it to an VAT registered garage for them to diagnose and phone the warranty company to get the go ahead if they then make it near impossible to bother trying to get a warranty claim.

 

I need to try and find the cash now, £1600 seem about right?

That is always a difficulty with 3rd party warranties. They love to make rules and to point out small print.  It doesn't seem a fair approach if they stipulate a procedure and are now directing you outside that .  Edit: May want to escalate within the warranty company or if you feel confident, pay for repairs and then chase the warranty company for re-imbursement if you feel you can prove you have followed the written requirements of the policy.  Tougher slog getting money after the repair is carried out and you are holding the baby...

 

If the unit is faulty and is not replaceable separately, that is probably the price of a genuine turbo and fitment, probably almost at dealer prices that I would of thought,..

 

If it is only the actuator, there is a chance you could try and match a part. look for forums etc. or are they saying the whole wastegate assembly is at fault. The latter is defintiely new or reconditioned turbo time.  You could call a few turbo remanufacturer and see what the price is.  Is there an excess and a limit on the RAC policy. 

 

 

Edited 4 January, 20188 yr by TheClient

43 minutes ago, TheClient said:

That is always a difficulty with 3rd party warranties. They love to make rules and to point out small print.  It doesn't seem a fair approach if they stipulate a procedure and are now directing you outside that .  Edit: May want to escalate within the warranty company or if you feel confident, pay for repairs and then chase the warranty company for re-imbursement if you feel you can prove you have followed the written requirements of the policy.  Tougher slog getting money after the repair is carried out and you are holding the baby...

 

If the unit is faulty and is not replaceable separately, that is probably the price of a genuine turbo and fitment, probably almost at dealer prices that I would of thought,..

 

If it is only the actuator, there is a chance you could try and match a part. look for forums etc. or are they saying the whole wastegate assembly is at fault. The latter is defintiely new or reconditioned turbo time.  You could call a few turbo remanufacturer and see what the price is.  Is there an excess and a limit on the RAC policy. 

 

 

 

Just collected the car, the Turbo they are wanting to fit is a genuine VW part from TPS...

 

https://tps.trade/

 

I am happy with a genuine part, although a reconditioned one would be a hell of a lot cheaper they only have a 12 month warranty and for piece of mind I just don't know what is best. He said the actuator has come loose hence the clicking and occasional slight bit of power loss. Couldn't say how long I have until it would fail all together. It is possible the warranty company feel this quote is excessive perhaps and that is why they have said what they say? The dealer I bought the car from is going to ring RAC warranty and find out more, he has mentioned perhaps a reconditioned unit would make RAC warranty be more inclined to pay out initially as it would much less.

 

Labour - £325

Turbo - £817.16

Oil feed pipe - £47.62

Return feed - £55.24

Minor service (oil change etc) - £80

 

£159.02 + VAT 

 

I am going to go through my uncles garage I think, they don't do warranty claims but if I get them to start the work and they find they can do it for less or change an internal part seperately they will tell me instead of fitting a whole new unit. 

 

I will keep you informed, bloody love this car but what an absolute nightmare, my worst fears have come to light being our first used car and only 8 weeks in.

 

 

The trouble with the IHI turbo as supplied by VW is that they (VAG) don't supply vitually any parts separately. There was a post a little while back when the garage had to quote for replacement for a broken £10 v band clip.  I think on most units the actuator might not be readily removable and the far end arm riveted. Still  a reconditioning place might be able to do something with it or may fashion a repair.

 

I suspect the warranty is a bit shocked by a £1500 bill for a £50 part, if only the actuator assembly but it won't be the only one like that!  They should have arranged inspection whilst at the garage though.

Well I spoke to a company called Best Turbos based just outside of Birmingham. Their reviews on facebook, google and the like are amazing!

 

They gave me some feedback on their experience with RAC warranty and all the ways they try to get out of paying. One guy they have currently is 4 weeks into waiting for resolution after the diagnosis, various reports, RAC sending their own technician out to inspect as they didn't believe the turbo company and other non pay tactics.

 

They said they will inspect it free of charge, since this engine has existed they have never seen an actuator fail or come loose in this engine and they are experienced in VAG cars. Worst case scenario for a remanufactured turbo fitting using OEM parts and a 2 year warranty they have quoted £720. May be less depending on issue but that is a hell of a lot better!

BTW. The obvious recourse for you, having read your posts again, is if you have purchased from a motor dealer and the vehicle was faulty when purchased or has become faulty now is to claim your statutory warranty provisions under the consumer rights act

 

They are very likely to be found liable within such a short period regardless of whether they knew the fault was present or not.  They are selling it and it comes with certain implied warranties.  That is why the selling dealer will be trying to help with your RAC warranty claim as it may fall back on them.

 

One important thing to be aware of many rights like vehicle return etc are very time defined so you need to assess your position, talk to the dealer soon and say you will be looking to them regardless of what the warranty company may say.  Many second hand car dealers use a warranty as 1) a way to insure their liability and 2) to confuse purchasers by thinking they are bound by only the terms of the warranty.  Happens --- all the time.

Thanks for the reply.

 

The other post should say £1325.02 for parts and labour then £265 VAT to take it to £1590.02 original quote. The newer quote at £720 seems very reasonable even for a remanufactured using OEM parts turbo.  

 

I am hoping it won't come to arguing with the dealer. I do think the RAC are going to be very troublesome here and I will end up paying the bill just to keep the car on the road. It can't be out of use whilst I go back and forth with the RAC. I have young children and my son has hospital and other appointments often.

 

If it was a £200 bill or something I would probably take it on the chin but £720 through no fault of my own. That is something that does not sit right with me at all.

Edited 4 January, 20188 yr by HarleQuinn

Took it upon myself this morning to do a bit more research.

 

I have now seen a few videos of Actuator/Wastegate rattle on VAG engine cars. The car sounds pretty much identical. Many people say its when they rev from 1500rpm to 3000rpm but I hear mine mostly when the revs/rpm are lowering to idle. I don't think it does it when accelerating. 

 

Took it to a German car specialist a short while ago, they had a listen and said it does sound like wastegate rattle. The other garage did say loose actuator but wanted to replace the whole turbo, could still be that issue I guess but not too sure.

 

Apparently adding a clip fixes the issue, I just hope it is this. The link below shows the clip and explains a bit more.

 

https://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=4144

I have heard the wastegate rattle first hand on my car and fitted a clip when I first purchased.

 

It was much less noticeably than yours free revving the car and mostly noticed under load / hard acceleration driving with windows down in the car. From my memory it was more like from mid 2k rpm to 3k range on my car.  The characteristic noise was different in my car to what I hear in your clips but it could be the arm resonating.  Mine had only done 33k miles when I bought, so your has a bit more use under the belt.

 

The garage assessing it should of been able to prove exactly what it was underneath the car, on a ramp with the underbelly off.

 

 There is also a fairly common problem that can occur with the whole wastegate linkage wearing and being sloppy which does require replacement or refurbishment of the turbo, which is why I asked if it was just the actuator or the wastgate.  That often shows with driving problems and inability to hold boost properly.

Edited 5 January, 20188 yr by TheClient

15 minutes ago, TheClient said:

I have heard the wastegate rattle first hand on my car and fitted a clip when I first purchased.

 

It was much less noticeably than yours free revving the car and mostly noticed under load / hard acceleration driving with windows down in the car. From my memory it was more like from mid 2k rpm to 3k range on my car.  The characteristic noise was different in my car to what I hear in your clips but it could be the arm resonating.  Mine had only done 33k miles when I bought, so your has a bit more use under the belt.

 

The garage assessing it should of been able to prove exactly what it was underneath the car, on a ramp with the underbelly off.

 

 There is also a fairly common problem that can occur with the whole wastegate linkage wearing and being sloppy which does require replacement or refurbishment of the turbo, which is why I asked if it was just the actuator or the wastgate.  That often shows with driving problems and inability to hold boost properly.

 

 

Thank you for the informative response!

Also popped to Skoda, their "master technician" identified wastegate rattle but want the car in next week for a proper check at a cost of £50.

 

Here is somebody else's video on their Audi but the exact same noise...

 

 

The turbo specialist I am going to go to are aware of wastegate rattle on engines my car also uses. I feel confident with them, they aren't charging for finding the fault. Their reviews are too good and there are too many to ignore. 

 

Could be wastegate or acuator, maybe it needs a clip or maybe something more. I'll know more Wednesday

Edited 5 January, 20188 yr by HarleQuinn

Yes, they'll find it. The turbo specialist I'm sure.  Mine was not as much of a tinny rattle sound, a lower sustained rattle if that makes sense, that sounds in yours is different. If it is the actuator arm at the wastegate end it is very very loose.

Edited 5 January, 20188 yr by TheClient