@xmanHave you got any photos of the shoe friction surfaces?

Wondering if there are metallic fragments in them, as there seem to be in a lot of brake pad compounds these days.

 

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by Wino

Penetrating oil is great stuff does as it says on the tin.

Not always great as long term lubrication oil.

Chain / Maintenance oil /PTFE Lube / Silicone spray can sometimes be a better solution. 

 

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

8 minutes ago, Wino said:

@xmanHave you got any photos of the shoe friction surfaces?

Wondering if there are metallic fragments in them, as there seem to be in a lot of brake pad compounds these days.

 

 

Unfortunately no, but when I stripped them last week the shoe surfaces seemed smooth, dark. The drum surface was bright steel,  smooth. No sign of rust deposits on either. I did rough up both shoes and drums with 80 grit aluminium oxide paper. The shoe surface under was light suggesting its a fibre composition? 

7 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Penetrating oil is great stuff does as it says on the tin.

Not always great as long term lubrication oil.

Chain / Maintenance oil /PTFE Lube / Silicone spray can sometimes be a better solution. 

 

 

I use MOS2 loaded penetrating oil (molybdenum disulphide). I find PTFE spray hit and miss, the PTFE does not always suspend well in the oil spray and can end up in coagulated lumps, messy and not in the right place. Silicone spray is great stuff, but gets also everywhere where I don't want it to go, difficult to remove, super slippy everywhere (not recommended in brakes).

IMO the toolstation penetrating oil is good because it gets down into those tight spaces, and the oil dries out eventually leaving a light coat of MOS2.

Good on sharing your experience, that will be useful for others that think penetrating sprays / lubes are all the same.

 

I thought we were talking brake cables, not In Brakes.

A little White Grease on back plates when i served my time.

That was when there were still asbestos brake shoes....

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

16 minutes ago, xman said:

 

Unfortunately no, but when I stripped them last week the shoe surfaces seemed smooth, dark. The drum surface was bright steel,  smooth. No sign of rust deposits on either. I did rough up both shoes and drums with 80 grit aluminium oxide paper. The shoe surface under was light suggesting its a fibre composition? 

 

I think that rules out my idea then, thanks.

4 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

Good on sharing your experience, that will be useful for others that think penetrating sprays / lubes are all the same.

 

I thought we were talking brake cables, not In Brakes.

White Grease on back plates when i served my time.

 

Yes, brake cables, just saying be very careful with silicone spray, also  it doesn't have oil as a carrier to run down 3m of bowden cables.

 

Don't know why you would put anything on back plates. Just clean them is my regime. Grease in minimum amounts on sliding joints only and then think carefully about using the correct grease for the job.

Because the Brakes were different then but not much different, and your Journeyman was a Motor Engineer / Mechanic and that was how it was done and still is if you read Mechanics manuals and instruction.

http://autos.com/auto-repair/5-tips-for-drum-brake-repair 

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by AwaoffSki

There's a rather hilariously (dark sense of humour, me) misinterpretable instruction in the repair manuals for the brake shoes.  Check out instruction number 11 on this page, and speculate how many young bucks have spread said 'solid lubricant paste' all over the shoes' friction surfaces (instead of the edges of the metal plates they're fixed to) while their mentor is off on a fag break?

 

Those 6 little (item 11 in pic) plastic discs are worth replacing when doing drum refurb/shoes replacement, as they get chewed up over time. I'll edit in the part number in a bit - 6N0609589, 6 per backing plate, see here for example, item 3, almost certainly the same on a mk2.

 

 

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by Wino

Ok so I looked this up, and now understand. I found this pic

 

 

I'll check this on next stripdown, though I was under the impression that the shoes did not rub against the back plate on the Fabia.

Those 'raised brake pads' are the plastic discs I'm on about.  On earlier generations of backplates they were indeed just pressed out, raised steel surfaces.

24 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

 

You guys answer faster than I can type. I cant seem to delete quotes on this android tablet....

Edited 9 February, 20188 yr by xman

Some great pics here:

 

Great stuff wino. Will get there eventually! 

Well my idea about squirting some penetrating oil down the brake cables from the handbrake end is a non runner. On this 63 example, the cores are plastic coated and there is a close fitting grommet at the end, so no chance of get much in there and unlikely to help anyway.

So spring time its off with the drum again and more serious attempt at lubing and greasing moving and sliding bits.

 

It does stick less now but not perfect.

Am fighting with my mk1 Fabia sticking drum brakes every 2-3 years, from 2007, when car was new. EVERY time problem was ONLY in seized pivot (where brake lever is attached to shoe). Am using hanbrake regulary btw. Only thing which I’ve not tried, is to not grease this pivot at all, hmm.

Sounds like age old "sticky brakes and cables on motorcycles" syndrome to me! They are (or were) Pretty prone to seizure, requiring regular strip down and lubricate maintainance, along with brake callipers, drums and pistons seals. Yamaha's were, I seem to recall, more prone to this then their Japanese counterparts.  Kawasaki's seemed to suffer from electrical gremlins the moment the battery was slightly week or less then fully charged. honda's seemed to be the most reliable and winter friendly of the Jap big four!  Bet the same is true today with both two and four wheels!