Skoda Octavia MKII Jerks When in D or R Mode At The Start

[pavan_h]

My jolts or jerks very badly and then go forward. The co passengers can feel it. Really not sure about the problem. 

[Cryonut]

4 hours ago, Cryonut said:

Ok so I see two issues here,

 

1. You have put 5.5 litres in, did you set the level of the oil with the engine running as described in the link I posted above, if not you have over filled by about 1 litre, also was the gearbox filter replaced?

 

2. You seem reluctant to state the brand of oil used, if it's not VW oil then that coupled with to much oil speaks volumes, 

 

it's possible the jerking before the oil change was due the the old oil being worn out or incorrect level.

 

Can you answer the questions above?

 

It's also worth trying to get somebody to do an autoscan with VCDS ,

[pavan_h]

Hi,

 

Sorry for delayed response. I was busy in some family emergency.

 

Below are the answers - 

 

1. The level was not checked as per the link above posted by you. The mechanic at the workshop simply told to put 5.5L of oil - I was in doubt for that, but went ahead with his decision thinking he has more knowledge on cars than me. Yes, the gearbox filter was replaced.

 

2. The oil used was of VW brand and it was quite costly.

 

The oil we replaced wasn't that bad. Today, I went to mechanic for a test drive and to check progress. The car still jerks in low RPM like - when I just switched to D mode from P mode, the car doesn't move ahead immediately like it used to do before. When I press the accelerator / gas pedal, the car slightly jerks and then move ahead. Same happens when I switch the gear in R mode. Strange is this happens only in low RPM when the car is idling. Rest of the drive is smooth.

[pavan_h]

Also, the mechanic suggested to change the engine mount and will test again. So far, I have replaced the glow plugs, cleaned the fuel tank and replaced fuel filter, changed the gearbox oil and its filter. The most confusing part is that VAGCOM shows no error in Transmission Electronics. How to reset the DSG via VAGCOM?

[Jaco2k]

I had for a few weeks a courtesy Yeti that had that same DSG box - it was brand new and... it behaved mostly as you describe. It was NOT a gentle car and it was loaned to me by the Skoda headquarters "master technician shop" here in Finland, so I assume it was correctly serviced.

 

It is about the character of the gearbox itself, it seems.

 

One thing to check would be engine mounts/dogbone tightness and subframe alignment - if there is play in there, it could also cause some jerking.

Edited 8 March, 2018 by Jaco2k

[pavan_h]

Thanks Jaco2k for the reply. I feel little better when I hear I am not alone in this world facing this issue with my car :-)

 

Is your car still facing same issue? How was it resolved? My mechanic will go for replacement of engine mounts this week for the car. The only things concerns me is that - the car wasn't behaving like this before and the ride was smooth.

[Jaco2k]

1 hour ago, pavan_h said:

Thanks Jaco2k for the reply. I feel little better when I hear I am not alone in this world facing this issue with my car :-)

 

Is your car still facing same issue? How was it resolved? My mechanic will go for replacement of engine mounts this week for the car. The only things concerns me is that - the car wasn't behaving like this before and the ride was smooth.

 

...it was not my car, so... no idea  My car is a manual.

[pavan_h]

Oh okay. Still keeping fingers crossed. I don't want the mechatronics / gear box unit replaced. The car is at workshop since 1 month.

[Ootohere]

No not a characteristic of the car / DSG. 

6 Speed Wet Clutch no need to Jerk, just Dealership staff jerking the owners plonker. 'Simply Clever' tell them any old rubbish.

Not a 'They all do that'.    Just the ones that do do.  Millions are smooth, not jerky.

 

Skoda have had time now to short their Sh!t out.

Wish they would sort the Dealership Techs out, and Service Desk / Sales People.

ŠKODA produces 1.5 millionth DQ 200 dual-clutch transmission at Vrchlabí plant - ŠKODA Storyboard.mhtml

ŠKODA AUTO produces two-millionth DQ 200 dual-clutch transmission at Vrchlabí plant - ŠKODA Storyboard.mhtml

Edited 8 March, 2018 by AwaoffSki

[pavan_h]

Yes. My car wasn't jerking before during the initial gear change in D or R. It started jerking like a month before only.

[Cryonut]

4 hours ago, pavan_h said:

 

1. The level was not checked as per the link above posted by you. The mechanic at the workshop simply told to put 5.5L of oil - I was in doubt for that, but went ahead with his decision thinking he has more knowledge on cars than me. Yes, the gearbox filter was replaced.

 

 

 

 

Well, that could be part of the problem,  you have at least 1 litre of oil to much, i would suggest setting the oil to the correct level as specified by VAG, 

When setting the level the gearbox must be about 35 deg, this can be checked with VCDS in auto-trans measuring block 19.

[HarleQuinn]

Odd question, have you changed fuel brands or the RON rating?

 

My car was super smooth, changed to Shell V-Power and jerkiness started, after 6 weeks changed back to Tesco Momentum and the car runs a lot smoother.

 

It likely isn't this but I thought I would add this to the suggestions just from my experience, it seems my car was used to one type of fuel and never got on with the brand change, odd I know!

[pavan_h]

Hmmm, yes. A night before the problem started occuring, I had refueled from a different newly opened fuel station - it was Shell only but I refilled normal fuel as I always do. During inspection, my mechanic did told me that fuel was really bad and the filter was literally gone kaput. He changed the filter and cleaned the fuel tank, but the problem of jerking in low RPMs still persist. 

 

He also mentioned that throttle body looks good to him. He will be trying with changing engine mounts and later transmission mounts - hope this may resolve the issue. Do you think bad mounts can cause these jerks in low RPMs while shifting? Recently I had ran over my car over a huge stone in the middle of road in dark.

[KenONeill]

@pavan_h - Well, I don't think it should be the fuel, because your mechanic did exactly what I'd have done in the circumstances; new filter, and clean the tank and lines.

[pavan_h]

But, can bad mounts cause this type of jerking as I described?

[pavan_h]

So, my mechanic today informed me that both the mounts - engine and dog-bone have gone kaput and he will be replacing it by tomorrow. I will let everyone know in case mounts are the culprits here. I read may threads and forums - seems bad mounts do cause this kind of issue I am facing. Fingers crossed.

[TheClient]

If the mounts do not solve the problem, it may be the dual mass flywheel. They will cause clunky, jerky take up of drive when on the way out. Of course, it would be important to try and prove that before embarking on removing the transmission to replace that.

 

Attention to detail is important, there is a filling procedure, and as long as you follow either of the two accepted methods you can be fairly confident it is neither overfilled or underfilled.  I like the second option by overfilling slightly and then letting the snorkel remove the excess once to required temperature as it guarantees correct levels.  Matching what is removed does not work if the transmission has a leak but if you drain less than 5 litres when level that should ring some warning bells...

 

[pavan_h]

Hi,

 

Got the photos of engine mounts from mechanic, are they bad mounts? Tagging @TheClient @KenONeill @HarleQuinn @Jaco2k and all users.

 

Heard from mechanic, the car is still making jerks.

[pavan_h]

So, mechanic called me up and told that car is having issue with Gearbox only. I am really going nuts as this may lead to huge repairs.

[KenONeill]

@pavan_h - The rubber doesn't look obviously rotted or torn, but the only real way to test engine and transmission mounts is by loading them manually in the car.

[pavan_h]

@KenONeill Mechanic called me up and said that he feels problem is from Gearbox. The car is out of warranty. I don't have that much money to put in for new gearbox - not sure what to do now.

[Jaco2k]

Those are the top mounts - only way to tell if good or bad is to check for play.

 

The one that usually has more play on it is the lower engine mount, underneath at the center of the engine, AKA dogbone mount

[pavan_h]

@Jaco2k I will be going physically tomorrow to inspect the vehicle and check which mounts were replaced. Can a faulty dog bone mount cause the vehicle to jerk and hesitate in low RPMs?

[Jaco2k]

2 minutes ago, pavan_h said:

@Jaco2k I will be going physically tomorrow to inspect the vehicle and check which mounts were replaced. Can a faulty dog bone mount cause the vehicle to jerk and hesitate in low RPMs?

 

Yes it can, but so can a lot of other things - usually you try the cheap fixes first and if that doesn't do it, move to the more expensive ones.

Gearbox seems like an hardcore repair... Maybe change the car instead and sell as is?

Edited 15 March, 2018 by Jaco2k

[pavan_h]

@Jaco2k Yep, I really want to sell out this car. Quite happy with my Honda Civic. But, problem is I will find no buyer as they will immediately notice the jerk problem while going for a test drive.