Should you take the car to another mechanic and ask for a second opinion?

 

Anyway, if it is gearbox... Well... Try to get one used one from a breaker, but will still cost loads of money, plus work.

 

Whole thing might cost around 4-5k in the end... :(

 

Sorry about your predicament and hope you sort it.

@Jaco2k Yes, I have the idea of taking up a used gearbox. It will still cost me. I will show it to a different mechanic. I lost lot of time sorting this issue - 45 days and still the problem isn't resolved. Plus I also need to pay this mechanic for parts and services he thought need to be replaced :-)

@pavan_h Where are you located?

 

I guess it could be mechatronic unit but that's a costly fix. Is your mechanic fully trained etc? I ask as it seems a lot of work is going into finding the fault of this car and you must be sinking some serious money into the repair just to find things being still won't work?

 

I'd consider a 2nd opinion.

Edited 15 March, 20188 yr by HarleQuinn

@HarleQuinn I stay in India. I too believe now that it is mechatronic unit - not sure how it failed? I always kept the car in good condition. This mechanic is not well aware of all electronic components, but he is still able to read the codes and check for all wiring etc. He told VAG COM doesn't shows any problems and all the wiring, fuses, etc looks god to him. 

 

I may need to sell this car as scrap now as can't afford to buy a new mechatronic unit / gearbox.

What's the cost where you are for a mechatronic? Here it is around £1500 GBP for fitting or somewhere around that figure, may be more now. Which is a huge amount. But you would want to know for sure either way, I would try another mechanic and explain everything you have checked and done so far. Maybe a VAG specialist if that is possible?

@HarleQuinn Yes, I will be going for a second opinion now. There is also one famous VAG specialist here, I ll take his advise in case he need to re configure the transmission. Looks to be rough patch of life - lost my beloved family member recently and all sudden this car also went kaput. 

1 minute ago, pavan_h said:

@HarleQuinn Yes, I will be going for a second opinion now. There is also one famous VAG specialist here, I ll take his advise in case he need to re configure the transmission. Looks to be rough patch of life - lost my beloved family member recently and all sudden this car also went kaput. 

 

Sometimes life is like that... It makes you appreciate the good times.

Hang in there and the curve will go up again in no time - sorry for your loss.

Does Skoda Superb's gearbox will work on this Skoda Octavia MK2? I am getting a used one.

Sorry to hear that @pavan_h things usually hit us all at once and when we are least prepared!

 

It may be possible just to have the DSG software reset and you will find improvement, worth a try and it is very cheap but make sure it is someone who knows what they are doing!

Yes, I will post everyone regarding the update.

Did you ever set the oil to the correct level?

Its something that will cost next to nothing!

@cryonut Yes, the mechanic told that oil levels are correct. I will ask him to check again once tomorrow.

Its also worgh doing the basic settings etc.  with Vcds if not already been done, 

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/6-Speed_Direct_Shift_Gearbox_(DSG/02E)

@TheClient @KenONeill @HarleQuinn @Jaco2k and all other users - there is some good and bad news as well. May be your expertise will help.

 

I went to workshop today to have a look at the car. Good news is that the car has stopped jerking when it is in Reverse.

 

But, it is still jerking and hesitating while moving from Park to Drive. When I put it in Drive, the car doesn't move. It only moves after a little acceleration given. If I put lot of pressure on accelerator pedal, the car jerks a little and then move ahead. Also, mechanic told that he replaced all the mounts except the dog bone mount. Can this be a result of bad dog bone mount? He did mentioned that dog bone mount has gone bad.

 

One more thing he mentioned that the car hood makes weird noise sometimes when the car is put in the gear. Is it normal? Your thoughts?

@pavan_h - The dogbone is actually the bush that does most to stop the engine shunting back and forward. I'd have replaced it first unless the others were obviously rotten (which they weren't based on your photos).

 

Beyond that your description sounds pretty much like any automatic I've driven in that you get a drivetrain shunt when you select drive (and indeed reverse IME), and need to rev the engine to get it rolling.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "the car hood" though. This is because there are several possible meanings.

@KenONeill I am not an expert in mountings. But, one of the mounts he shown me was broken - it was round in shape. The other mount which was big in size, even I thought it was not that bad but mechanic told me that it went bad and engine was shaking coz of that. I felt happy that reverse jerks stopped. Do you think dog bone mount has a play in forward jerks and car hesitation on Drive? 

 

Prior, I never rev'ed my engine in Drive mode - the car used to move forward in slow speed and never used to jerk.

 

Sorry, by car hood I mean the bonnet area near the engine. The mechanic told me that gearbox makes sound when the car is put in Drive mode. Also, mechanic told me that I should not take the car on long drives right now, it may break down :-(

The mechanic has ordered a new dog bone mount and will be replacing it tomorrow. 

 

I will update all. Also, it looks this phenomena is called as Driveline Shunt as described by @KenONeill. Has anyone faced this issue before? From other forums, it looks many have faced this problem over DSGs. 

 

After replacing two mounts except Dogbone, the Reverse jerk has stopped like it used to happen before. 

Mmm.  I can't see the dogbone mount will stop it moving forward though, if I read all the posts properly. But agreed it could need replacing . My DSGs have all taken up drive  at idle, while on a flat level surface, by disengaging the clutch, very soon after removing foot from brake pedal,  without need for any acceleration.  It is not like a torque converter that needs revs to result in movement...

@TheClient Yes, I agree. Prior, it was moving forward at idle in D mode and I had to press brakes to make it stop. No idea what's happening with this car. 

 

The mechanic told me that gearbox may need a replacement as he hear some noises when the car is put in gear. The noises are heard when he open the bonnet.  BTW, what is the role of dog bone mount?

5 minutes ago, pavan_h said:

@TheClient Yes, I agree. Prior, it was moving forward at idle in D mode and I had to press brakes to make it stop. No idea what's happening with this car. 

 

The mechanic told me that gearbox may need a replacement as he hear some noises when the car is put in gear. The noises are heard when he open the bonnet.  BTW, what is the role of dog bone mount?

 

My understanding, in simple terms, it is to stop edit: control engine twisting, from torque because of the transverse layout. Allows a finite amount of movement under high torque loads.

 

"These mounts help absorb the torque produced from the transversely mounted engine. When the bushings in the mount start to wear out you can notice an increase in wheel hop and a harder time trying to get the power to the ground. These have a tendency to wear out more frequently especially if you have modified the car to increase horsepower"

Edited 16 March, 20188 yr by TheClient

@TheClient So, wheel hop is what I am facing? Also, does harder time to get power to ground means - the early hesitation till I hit throttle a little hard? Sorry for too many questions, the definitions got too many technical jargons which are little difficult to understand and grasp :-)

I doubt it. It would normally be experienced under hard full throttle acceleration like scenarios. A worn dogbone mount wouldn't normally prevent movement in my opinion.   Yours to me, sounds more like transmission or dual mass flywheel to me but diagnosing these transmissions from a few posts is difficult, And I am far from an expert.....

With wheel hop in my experience it is a loud bang and violent judder, I'm sure it's not that although I am no expert.

 

@TheClient It looks to be a transmission issue then. The mechanic told me flywheel was good. May be I ll have a opinion of other mechanic also when I get back car from this workshop.

 

@HarleQuinn Not sure if it means, a violent jerk when I hit throttle when the car is just put in Drive from Park.

Whenever I had wheel hop I have accelerated hard/fast. If you are getting it in slow moving bumper to bumper traffic it won't be wheel hop.

 

Basically when I try to accelerate very fast the car makes a bang and I feel a very strong judder but it's only in that scenario and only when accelerating unusually fast from stationary position.