No aircon on this model (thank god). Well, I'm not sure if I was hearing ghosts in the past; The original fan (valeo 866939A) looks like one-speed model (despite 3 cables running to it). And the terminal switch only has 2 connections (glare/shine on the photo is possible old contactspray). Removed fuse 8 of the fan; no mA draw there.

 

 

 

 

 

That's nice and simple then.

The major reason why I don't want a new car. This car has everything I need and it's pretty KISS. My dog has it's own 12V cooling fan + math in the back and my wife can stick her head out of the window for those 2-4 weeks/year when an AC is required.

 

Anyway, the resistance between pin 2 and 3 of the fan is 4 ohm. Waste of time, but it may be usable for other people.

 

Back to the parasitic draw; Followed the steps above for fuse 49 and 43. After closing the car with the remote and removing F49, the central convenience system is indeed down (module 46 in vcds) and no blinking light in the drivers-door. But if you open the door, the interior lights still go on for 20 seconds and the booth lid lock now opens while it should stay closed (when touching the switch).  Removed fuse F31 (booth lid lock) and the interior light too in the booth to be safe and keep it locked.

 

Voltage was 12.55V this afternoon and we can now say that the drain is caused by (the devices beyond) the central convenience system or central electronics system (or like said earlier, the switches in the door locks). Maybe I missed the interior lights while under 24/7 CCTV surveillance.

 

Disrupting the cables in and between the door and dashboard is the fasted option if the draw was permanent. Going there now might solve the intermittent draw issue for a short time.

 

I'm going to wire an 12v USB charger to the front interior light and log charging data on a old phone.

 

 

 

I don't know if anyone is interested. Otherwise I can make a simple DIY in another thread.

 

You can use the USB charger (and make sure the charger has is own fuse to avoid any damage) method to monitor many 12V devices/connections in your car for a couple of days.

 

My old phone in the car will send me a text when the interior lights go on (using https://apkpure.com/automate/com.llamalab.automate). But you also use a simple app if the phone is offline and you want local logging: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.routine_work.simple_battery_logger

Voltage dropped again significantly after enabling F43, while leaving F49 out for one night. Did the 12V test on the front lights, luggage comp. light and door warning lights > nothing happens. VCDS check on all door locks > OK

 

Adjusted terminal 30 to value 1 (or 80 secs in real life). Unplugging more fuses behind the BCM (F43) if that does not help.

After reducing the time of terminal 30G to 80sec, the draw on battery was about the same in two days as when F43 and F49 where removed. So it must almost be J317 or the circuits related to it.

 

In the topic "Terminal 30G not working as it should be", @Wino found out that J317 activates itself again if it detects any load on the line under fuse 4 (or maybe even fuse 5).

 

So a defective bulb or bad contact may cause a load switch on the line. After inspecting all four light units, I found some bad bulbs and connections (they still worked perfectly before). After pushing and measuring the front reading light buttons, I found out that even a tiny movement of the button on the driver-side caused a switch in the connection.

 

What's will it be: a worn button, bad contacts or a bad bulb that triggers J317 again? We'll see again in the next week episode.

 

 

Edited 30 March, 20188 yr by Palatinux

For the record: The reading light switch of the front drivers side is indeed faulty and makes contact on heavy vibration (a new unit: 3B0947105C for 12 to 16 dollar on Aliexpress incl. shipping ), rear reading light and  luggage compartment light units (including its diode 1n4001) are ok and all bulbs are replaced. With all interior lighting units and F4 and F5 removed, the battery voltage still dropped again with 0.9v after 24hrs with 30g set to it's default timeout of 30 min.

 

Even with F4 and F5 removed, you can measure < 6.5V on the 3 pin connector of the lighting units. Voltage between two pins depends on the number of doors opened. Unplugged all 4 connectors for the back doors from the A pilars in the rear and checked the wires. Now it reads around 3v on the 3 pin connector of the lighting units. Reinstalled the rear and luggage lighting units (switched to off when possible).

 

Now, with only F4, F5, front interior light unit, and backdoor connectors removed, the car can be locked 'normally' (2 sec indication in the door) when you push the knobs down in the rear.

 

Never seen a flickering interior light while driving at night, but I might also be one the resistors/connections of one of the 4 locking units that only play up when the car is parked in the cold and rain. I will unplug the connectors of the front doors next time if the voltage still drops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After inspecting, cleaning and spraying (WD40) the contacts and wiring behind all 4 door cable covers/sleeves. I found out that the locking and power-window connectors on the passage-side where a bit corroded. Cleaning the contacts and tightening the connector clips did not help. I'm afraid I have to get to the central locking unit in the door, which is very likely the last source that is draining the battery.

 

The white bracket ( 6Q0959550M ) is a real pain to remove. You can use a metal hook or pull them out by force, but the 4 little clips on it can break off easily or simply bend. If they are still in a good shape, you need to make sure that the small wedge is pointed upwards when placing them back and you need to align the clips. Otherwise you'll hear an clicking sound every time you open the door (it has play). This bracket in another VAG design flaw and together with the rubber sleeve you can be sure it does not seal properly over the years.

 

If you have small hands, you might get the connectors out without removing the white brackets first. The first image is from the connectors in the rear (manageable). And the second from the front (very limit working space).

 

 

 

Edited 4 April, 20188 yr by Palatinux

I'm sorry that I can't say where exactly, but I am sure that someone, maybe a tech etc, has given guidance in this forum, on how to successfully remove the covers and the plastic cages and refit/reuse them.

 

Edit:- I am just adding this in case it helps others faced with the same problem.

Edited 4 April, 20188 yr by rum4mo

I guess you might gain more space for access to the fronts by disconnecting the check-strap from the door?

Not sure how much further it will go before door to wing contact occurs?

Would want a temporary rope check-strap as insurance I think, maybe rigged up between back edge of door and B-pillar.

Possibly a terrible idea, don't have a Fabia to look at just now.

Thank you for your concerns and lets hope this thread is indeed useful to other people w/o special VAG tools.

 

 

I had to redo some of my previous work today and unbolted the door arrester from the front doors and secured the door on a box + a towel. After removing one bracket for the third time, one of the clips broke off, but it seems it's still tight enough to seal (somewhat). Unfortunately, I cannot find a replacement part 6Q0959550M online. Maybe the local Stealer has it for 20 euro/pc, but I will keep on searching.

 

Correction: the bracket wedge/opening should be facing -down- on the front doors and not up. Otherwise the top of the connector plate will stick out. And you should place the bracket onto the hose before clipping it back in and make sure you don't trap any wires between it. In other words, do not try to remove the bracket if not necessary, it will only make things worse.

 

I will plug in the connectors in by sets the following days and see what is also responsible for draining the battery around 5% to 10% every day.

Alright, found something on https://ifinterface.com/prog/car/cp2/inprog.php

 

6Q0959843K - bellows (the whole thing).

 

I yearly conditioned the EPDM hoses with sunflower-oil mix and they still look and feel like new. I will try to contact the dealer for the bracket only.

 

Another option maybe, removing the bracket (6Q0937545) that holds the connector to the car first (two clips)

 

 

Edited 5 April, 20188 yr by Palatinux

Maybe look on the MK2 Fabia section of this forum, there is a thread on repairing broken wires in this area, and someone has written what might be the exact way to go about removing these gaitors from their "clipped in place" state. Different car okay, but I'd doubt if VW Group change things like that too often.  I think there was another guide/tips on removing them elsewhere by someone that works regularly on these cars, ie a tech or almost a tech!

All I can find are people that force the gators with a screwdriver and one recommended to release the two clips on the 6Q0937545 first. Newer models have improved connectors in that location that can be easily removed.

 

I got word from the dealer. The white gator/bracket cannot be ordered separately, only the complete bellows ( 6Q0959843K or  6Q0959843L) for only 4.70 Euro/pc (so cheap)? Even a new bellow will not prevent water infiltration if part 6Q0937545 if worn too (they slide/move into each other). Dealer told me that a small bit of silicon-kit between the bellows and car is the best solution. They seal all reasonably now, so let wait until it's sunny and dry outside.

 

Correct ETKA / parts database link here btw: https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php?langid=1

 

Back to the intermittent parasitic drawn; I'm quite sure that the white connector (or 'T6k Connector, 6-pin, at right A pillar (white)' in the pdf attached) is responsible for the drawn and only a small chance that it's the brown connector (T6g 6-pin connector, at right A pillar (brown)). At least, there is no drawn when the white one is disconnected.

 

Time do another VCDS/VAGCOM test in  [46 - Cent. Conv.] > [Meas Blocks - 08] > Group 010 (door open/close check) and Group 015 (door alarm log) after reconnecting the white connector (already did that right after @rum4mo first advice). But this time by also swinging and banging on the door with the lock closed by hand. Hope it will finally give a sign before disassembling the door.

 

 

Convenience electrics central control unit, central locking locking unit - passenger side, right door warning light - Skoda Fabia MK1.pdf

The convenience electrics central control unit (module 46) in my car only has measuring blocks 001 to 014 and 080. So no alarm log. VCDS screenshots are taken with a disconnected white and brown connector at the passenger door (shows 'Safe' and 'Door closed ' in any situation. I unplugged the brown connector too because the unit was still draining the battery overnight (but 75% less).

 

Attached: all accessible reading blocks (besides 080) in this module/for this car.

I tested the passenger door in all situations with all the connectors plugged in and  even when closing the lock with a screwdriver + swinging/banging it. No strange behavior found in VCDS.

 

The only thing I can guess is an intermittent parasitic draw over the convenience electrics central control unit that goes through the door lock in certain situations... I'm lost a the moment and have to a break before I'm going to open and replace parts too soon.

Edited 6 April, 20188 yr by Palatinux

The contact areas of the old fashion 6 pin connectors (6Q0972706) between the door and the car look like a possible bottleneck when it comes to total circuit resistance when they oxidate even slightly. I cannot tell for sure from the manual when the door latches/lock unit resistance is dwelling between 'safe', 'closed' or 'open' state under certain conditions.

 

If I lock the car into 'safe' state (press close button twice on the remote, no blinking light in door), would this mean that the car will always finally return into it's 'locked' state (2s blinking light in the door) IF the condition of the car changed to any other state than 'safe' (locked,unlocked,open,closed) by itself over a longer period?

 

Edited 9 April, 20188 yr by Palatinux