I've tried searching the forum, but the search came back empty - it seems no one here did the valve seal replacement (or they did, but don't want to share) on their car with the engine in question. On my car, some very short time ago, I've discovered leaks on both sides of the engine coming from the mentioned seal (shown on the image below in red), and the missing oil was confirmed with the dipstick, being on the low side ... I've added some extra oil, but it won't make sense on the long run if it will decide to exit from the wrong side of the engine (and this could affect the fuel consumption, exhaust gasses quality etc.). The procedure seems simple enough (I'd say much simpler that the DSG oil pan I did yesterday) and since I intend to stick with this car for some years or more, the investment of some 50 GBP for a piece of mind and better engine performance makes sense. Like always, if someone has anything smart to say before I start screwing around (can't say bolting, not that funny) the engine, please do (it will be some 10 days before I receive all the parts). I could've ordered them locally, but manged to get better prices incl. shipping via eBay and I don't mind the wait for quality.

 

I'm probably being a muppet but is that the same as a rocker cover gasket? I think so...I'd be surprised if it gave up after a decade but it would be an easy job.  Seems to be a common 'fail' on 2008/9 cars though looking at the forums. A good write up of the process, with photos, on the Vortex forum here:

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8349225-DIY-Replacing-the-PCV-Oil-Separator-Diaphragm-Valve-on-the-3-6-VR6

 

Good luck with it (and well spotted!)

 

Dave

Yes, that's more or less it ... and I'm also targeting the diaphragm while I'm at it, but I've ordered one for much cheaper and from another source than RXKTech (expensive shipping to my country). I've ordered a quality gasket/seal and the silicone sealant from VICTOR REINZ, if that won't hold the oil from escaping the engine, I don't know what will (and the gasket + sealant are under the price for only the gasket at the dealer's). I know that the 2008/2009 3.6 FSI cars, or more specifically their engines, have their share of issues, that's why I want to prevent them from happening, since my engine is on the younger side (only 166.000 km so far, that's approx. 100.000 miles, right?)

103,000 miles - so just run in  

 

You might have seen my thread on the issues I had with my car (engine - tensioner fail and afterwards the DSG - incorrectly re-fitted) BUT these are known to be pretty bullet proof units in general and as I have said elsewhere, the Gendarmes still use the 3.6 DSG estates up past 350,000kms and really like them.  The issue on the early cars are the quality of the gasket....mine has the Porsche Cayenne 3.6 unit gasket so I assume that even though its a Skoda, to avoid onward issues they installed a quality gasket thereafter to ensure longevity.

Our highway police also had several such cars, but have switched mostly to Audi & BMW cars ... but there is still a lingering feeling with the motorists that anyone driving a Superb II with twin exhaust pipes at the back might potentially be a undercover police car ... ... had one such experience very recently: a guy tried to overtake me on the highway in the evening (I was cruising @ 130 km/h), came very close on the left side, recognized the car, stepped on the brakes in panic, lowered the speed, and then slowly and hesitantly came behind me in the right lane ... and was driving following me at a safe distance until I came off the highway ... for 50 km ...

1 hour ago, vborovic said:

Yes, that's more or less it ... and I'm also targeting the diaphragm while I'm at it, 

 

It's probably the diaphragm that is causing the issue to start with due to buildup of pressure as the crankcase breathing will be affected. Will blow oil past anything that will let it including gaskets and seals. Can vastly increase oil consumption not just because of leaks, but oil can be blown past valve seals.  I've also seen an engine eject the dipstick with some force!

 

Edited 16 April, 20188 yr by bigjohn

Did this procedure today, took me some 5 hours from start to finish, most of the time was spent on cleaning old/excess oil from the parts that were taken out ... don't think it is necessary to post photos, unless someone really wants to see how the 3.6 looks without the top cover (I think @Wile7 posted his engine some time ago). Use the official procedure or the suggested vwvortex forum link and you're all set to go (if you have all the parts and tools at your disposal)... for the PCV oil separator, you can find a few YouTube videos that clearly show the steps needed to do the replacement by your self ... the only thin I can point out is that the farthest bolt (closest to the cabin), compared to the vwvortex mentioned procedure, can be taken out with a M8 hexagon tool. After putting the engine back together, took the car for a test run, I don't think it is worse that it was before, and now we'll see how long until the first drops of oil appear from the cover (meaning, something wasn't done like it was supposed to be done). The only thing which (not typical for me) I didn't do by the book is change the gaskets with new ones (no aftermarket options, only from Skoda) on the upper intake manifold (2+4), because they would cost me more that everything else regarding the valve gasket, PCV diaphragm, sealant ... and I didn't use any oil on them while putting the manifold back in place, just to see whether or not that will have any impact ... I did however thoroughly clean the gaskets surroundings and all the flat connection surfaces from oil and other dirt before putting it all back together.

Forgot to say that the PCV valve was in good condition (definitely not like new, slightly deformed upon opening the top cap, but no cracks visible), however, the probable oil leakage culprit was the valve gasket ... the old one was very rigid, while I attempted to take it off, broke apart in several small pieces, especially in the middle, where the spark plugs are and it probably lost its sealing capability over time, oil pressure and high temperature.

For the better part of the last two months I've been battling with a series of weird issues on the car, some of which have been discussed, but the latest conclusion would be that the PCV valve which I've recently replaced (as a precaution) actually failed somehow, and that I'll be forced to do a complete cylinder head/rocker cover replacement (including the seals, bolts and the PCV valve) ... the car has issues with a rough idle and it seems the PCV is leaking vacuum ... engine management light on, VCDS logs a high idle RP issue ... in the course of finding the faults, I've ordered a brand new MAF, the K&N filter swap I did earlier has been ruled out as a source of the problem, some smaller things had also been checked/changed, and now the only thing left is the PCV issue ... after taking the top off, I'll also take the opportunity to check the chain belt tension, any tips regarding that, what to look for, any obvious clues to any fails?

Edited 31 July, 20187 yr by vborovic

When you did the job - PCV misfitted in some way? Time to strip it down and have a look see

 

6 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

When you did the job - PCV misfitted in some way? Time to strip it down and have a look see

 

Thought of this, but I'd say no. Everything fit perfectly, tested it by blowing in the two vents, it sealed properly. I've read on various sources that the aftermarket PCV's can actually fail much sooner than the genuine ones, I did some 5000 km after doing this, this would really have to be a really short-life one that I've received

25 minutes ago, vborovic said:

 

Thought of this, but I'd say no. Everything fit perfectly, tested it by blowing in the two vents, it sealed properly. I've read on various sources that the aftermarket PCV's can actually fail much sooner than the genuine ones, I did some 5000 km after doing this, this would really have to be a really short-life one that I've received

 

I hear what you say - but I'd still re-check what's been done / changed recently. Also - you didn't change the inlet manifold gaskets on the original job - first place to check!

 

I once had issues with a Ford Essex V6 many moons ago. After doing a car/inlet manifold job (fitted a twin choke Weber carb instead of a horrible Ford singe choke one) all was well for a while - until I started dropping cylinders - it transpired I'd used the wrong stuff sealing the inlet manifold, it was a pig to do as well as it was wedged in the V between cylinder banks with different angled surfaces. Eventually sorted it but then later had the dreaded hex oil pump drive shaft failure which lunched the crankshaft! Common failure on this engine and Ford Pinto - Oh and VAG 2.0 diesel engines fitted with balancer modules!

 

 

Edited 31 July, 20187 yr by bigjohn

I can’t tell you details about the job but if you’re going to go to all that trouble then it might make sense to check for carbon buildup too, as it’s an FSI engine.

 

I’d be interested to know what you find if you do that as mine has now ticked over 105k miles 

Like they say, back to the drawing board ... after removing everything from the top side (for the second time), I've even checked the PCV valve (it seemed all good and like it did fit in place properly after the swap) ... but this time, I've replaced the 2+4 intake manifold seals (approx. 70 GBP for a set from the dealer, no aftermarket ones available). I did find out that the the larger gaskets had developed some longitudinal cracks, and my intake manifold was oily, but not by much ... I've also figured out that the PCV exit hose (that allows for oil fumes to exit next to the throttle valve into the engine air intake) developed a small leak (probably due to age and the number of times I had to dismantle the top part of the engine) so I covered it with a quality rubber oil-resistant seal, put metal ring clamps on the ends, now it can't leak anywhere (air/vacuum/oil) even if it wanted it to ... better than the factory job ... this is one of those things, you don't know what you did differently from the first time, but it works ... the engine idles normally, no error displayed, I can tell that the new MAF sensor is also making a big difference (a more precise air calculation) and now the K&N filter is really showing its potential as it had been planned from the start ... most importantly , the fuel consumption dropped significantly (roughly a liter on 100 km), you can do the math for the mpg's ... the great thing is that now I can stop the car on the traffic lights normally and not being thought of as a fan boy racer erratically revving the engine for a minute before it turns green ... ... and I can finally move on to the next project(s)

 

 

On 31/07/2018 at 23:12, spk said:

it might make sense to check for carbon buildup too, as it’s an FSI engine

 

No carbon build-up found anywhere - I guess it is still too soon, or the used fuel is of good quality ...