Hi

 

Searched the forums and the web but can't quite find an answer....

Today I started the job of fitting new rear discs and pads to my Octiavia Scout.

I have the replacement discs which have a part number of 1K0 615 601 AJ

First question is - are these the correct discs for my car?

 

So far I've removed the caliper, pads and the caliper carrier (bolts extremely tight!) and the disc retaining torx screw - but can seem to get the disc off.

I have tapped it from behind with a mallet (turning the disc as I go) and tapped it from the front.

It just doesn't seem to want to budge.

 

Is there any difference in replacing the rear discs on a Scout when compared to a front wheel drive 2.0TDi?

For all intents and purposes, it looks like the rear hub nut needs to be removed but all of the images/posts/videos I've seen don't need to do this but then again are not Scout specific.

 

Greatly appreciate it if anyone is able shed some light on how to remove the disc please and confirm if the part number above is correct.

 

Cheers guys

 

 

Is there a tapped hole to screw a m8 bolt into the disc which would separate it from the hub?

If not, 3 shredded wheat and a bit of brute force and ignorance but make sure the car is on axle stands bash the edges of the discs rather than the braking surface as that can break any bonding between the hub and disc. 

 

I cant help with the part number. 

'tapping it with a mallet'

 

No wonder you are having problems, hit the damn thing hard, with a hammer.

Thanks for the replies.

Sadly no M8 threaded bolt holes (like my Subaru FXT has).

 

So no need to remove the cente hub bolt on a Scout either then?

 

Any other preference on the best method to remove other than the edge of the disc?

E.G. Hitting the front face where the bolt holes are or using a piece of wood and hitting from the rear face of the disc? (I've tried both but no movement).

Seems like I need to swap to using a large ball pein or lump hammer!

I have a 2.0tdi 4x4 and that doesn't need the hub nut removing...   So given the only real difference with the scout is the extra plastic around the car yours will be the same!

A piece of 2x3 held against the thin edge of the disc then hit hard with a lump hammer. Work your way around the disc, then hit from the rear. 

Don’t do any of the above unless you have axle stands, it’s not worth it. 

As above lump hammer and ignorance needed to get disk off, I don't know the part number but I do know the rear disk dia is 270mm from when I changed my scout rear disks recently and I think there are only 2 possible sizes with model and age changes. 

Thanks very much for all of the replies!

 

Will measure old and new disc diameters just to make sure they match and post the size back here.

Will have another go tonight after work - I've put some Plus-Gas on it and left it to soak.

3 x 2 at the ready along with a lump hammer....

 

Why are the discs so tight? Do they rust to the hub or something or are they meant to be an interference fit on the hub?

Is it worth putting a smear of copper grease on the new ones (hub/inside side of course)?

 

From a safety perspective, the car only has one rear wheel removed (OSR) and is up on an axle stand with the front wheels chocked and in 1st gear (handbrake off of course!).

If the disc comes off OK later I think I'll raise the car higher and put both sides on axle stands to give more room underneath for the breaker bar when I do the opposite side.

 

 

 

You’re not supposed to put any copper grease on the mating surface but I’ve always done so and a thin smear has never caused any problems. 

I’m a nag on the safety side with axle stands but I’d read plenty of sad stories of accidents but in the last year I’ve seen it happen to one neighbour and heard of it with another. Luckily no injuries from either but one had expensive repairs. 

Thanks again @CWARD - I too wouldn't work under a car if I wasn't 100% happy with how it was supported.

 

I had a near miss many years ago working alone under a Triumph Dolomite Sprint that I was rebuilding.

Bought a donor car and while removing the exhaust the jack slipped and went through the floor of the car (very rusty) - luckily I heard the cracking noises and managed to slide myself out before the car came down.

Was still shaken up even though no harm done except for a flat exhaust!

4 hours ago, CWARD said:

A piece of 2x3 held against the thin edge of the disc then hit hard with a lump hammer. Work your way around the disc, then hit from the rear. 

Don’t do any of the above unless you have axle stands, it’s not worth it. 

 

 

This is sage advice. If I am working on the rear, then I chock the front wheels and the opposite rear (if on the ground), then use one or two axle stands with the trolley jack in place as well - cannot be too carefull, and all that belting with a mallet (I used a small sledgehammer, because the old discs are never going to be used again).

Dont forget if you need to hit the disk that hard you can damage the wheel bearing, it might be better to use a puller if you can get one, to make it easier to remove next time clean the hub surface really well and appy a very small amount of copper slip,

With the car secured I've used the jack on stubborn discs, it's easier on the old joints and a lot quieter.

 

Just make sure the locating screw(s) are removed, place the jack under the disc and lift away, it helps if you have the jack slightly inboard so that pressure is biased outwards.

 

Don't try to lift the car, just get a bit of pressure on the disc and give it a belt with a heavy hammer if it doesn't pop free on its own.

Thanks @MicMac nice suggestion.

I guess with the natural movement outwards of the jack as it lifts  - I could see how this might work

Quick update.

Finally got the disc off.

I've got an old cheapo 3 legged puller which I had already tried but couldn't get one of the legs behind the disc shield.

Tried again and this time coerced it to fit and managed to get it to draw the disc until it 'went'.

Still needed to use the puller to remove it due to the rust.
 

I've measured the new discs - they are 256mm diameter.

The old disc diameter seems to be 262mm which seems a lot even with the build up of rust on the disc edge.

 

Big thanks to everyone who offered advice - gave me the confidence  to persevere.

Now just need to reassemble and do the other side!

Nice one. 

On ‎23‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 19:53, nidgep said:

 

I've measured the new discs - they are 256mm diameter.

The old disc diameter seems to be 262mm which seems a lot even with the build up of rust on the disc edge.

 

Big thanks to everyone who offered advice - gave me the confidence  to persevere.

Now just need to reassemble and do the other side!

 

seems like you have the wrong size discs as judging by your old ones you should be fitting 260mm ones

Thanks for the reply @wiilydog

 

Not fitted the new ones yet so am querying with the supplier - Skoda dealer

Check the pr code for the brakes in the manual or boot sticker and look on the following link,

 

Code for 260mm is PR-1KF

You need to click the info button then the info tab.

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2010-663/6/

I recently fitted new Pagid discs and pads all round and they were a couple of mm smaller than what came off so I wouldn't worry about it.

 

They don't do a 256mm model as far as I know however their 260mm discs are slightly short of the mark.

 

As long as the pad swept area doesn't exceed the disc diameter.

 

The Pagid pads sweep right to the edge of their disc so I won't have to deal with much of a crusty lip when I need to renew pads.

 

 

Thanks again for the replies

 

Boot code states 1KF - which for MY2008 seems to relate to https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/6/615-615065/

Shame it doesn't give the part number to match against.

 

Quote

rear
CII41HR-A
LUCAS
260X12MM

5/112

 

So does seem like the dealer gave me the wrong discs.

 

Boot sticker

Relax, see the fitment details:

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.9_2006/p/car-parts/regular-service/car-service-parts/brake-discs/?104441278&1&677ce18600edbcc82a6682c501ac36c176dc036a&000027

Thanks for the link @MicMac - good price with current 75% discount.

Reassuring that both 256mm and 260mm are included in the detail.

Given that the discs I have are 256mm, then it doesn't look like there's a reason not to fit them but I'll wait and see what the dealer says.

 

Looks like they should have supplied 1K0 615 601 AC and if I search for 1K0 615 601 AJ on their site, it matches nothing.

 

 

 

The suffix J is just a revision and supercedes the C model, nothing to worry about.

 

1KF fitment discs are/were originally 260mm dia, 12mm thick.

 

I suspect manufacturers are saving a small amount of money by shaving the excess diameter down which in use is unswept and just ends up a rough and rusty mess.

 

Get the best price for your fitment which will more than likely mean returning the OE items.

 

Eurocarparts have discs+pads packages on eBay which can work out cheaper than buying individually in store, allowing for discounts of course which fluctuates!

any one no rear hubs with abs 30mm inner bore diameter and 32mm inner bore ? i was told dont no mine ? 

and abs sensors 2008 Octavia  est need rear hubs and sensors any help thanks 

Edited 6 May, 20188 yr by kenzone
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