Skoda Kodiaq Dash Camera Installation Guide

[SizzlingPotato]

Thanks. Those clips do look like they could snap easily so good call with the spares 👍 although I am getting second thoughts now 😄

[SizzlingPotato]

silver1011. Did you have to secure the dashcam cable that you have running down inside the A pillar trim? Wondering whether it would rattle around in there or later shift position to get in the way of the airbag.

[silver1011]

I did on a previous installation on my Skoda Superb, but I removed the A-pillar and it was easier to place some of these...

 

 

 

On the Kodiaq there was a lot less free space behind the trim, so after carefully feeding the wire behind the airbag I was confident it would be unlikely to move much.

 

Certainly no rattling or noises.

[livelyyoungman]

On 29/08/2019 at 00:12, adsta said:

Hi, I've just bought and had fitted a Nextbase 522GW with rear cam, wired down the passenger side.  I have lost DAB signal (common I know), is there a way round this that anyone has successfully found?  As soon as I unplug the rear cam from the main unit DAB instantly returns.....any tips or just admit defeat and remove the rear cam?

Hi.. I am planning for both front and back as well. Just wanted to understand from you on how you connected both the camera to the power source - meaning did you install two 12v  from the accessories fuse or was it by some other way. Thanks in advance.

 

That is a wonderful article helping many. Thanks @silver1011. As said in the previous statement, I want both front and rear dash cam to be installed. So need your views on wiring.. two 12v or a better way?

Edited 9 March, 2020 by livelyyoungman
Tagged silver1011

[silver1011]

Sorry @livelyyoungman, I don't think your tag for my username worked correctly, I didn't receive a notification.

 

For both a front and rear dash cam I would simply wire them both into the same piggyback fuse holder. The capacity of the fuse should be more than ample for the power draw from two cameras...

 

 

You've probably already sorted this now anyway! 

[livelyyoungman]

8 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

Sorry @livelyyoungman, I don't think your tag for my username worked correctly, I didn't receive a notification.

 

For both a front and rear dash cam I would simply wire them both into the same piggyback fuse holder. The capacity of the fuse should be more than ample for the power draw from two cameras...

 

 

You've probably already sorted this now anyway! 

Thank you so much. Indeed sorted it out but yet to install the camera.

[MikeTheThinker]

@silver1011, what a truly excellent and helpful piece of work!  Thankyou!

[Raymorris]

On 18/04/2020 at 11:31, livelyyoungman said:

Thank you so much. Indeed sorted it out but yet to install the camera.

Hi ...just reading this a long time after the initial post 

If you buy a nextbase 3 4 or 5 series you can buy a plug in rear view camera (two types...one plugs directly into the side of the forward facing camera ...disadvantage is rear view can be restricted by passengers ....the other version mounts on the rear screen and is hardwired to the front camera where it directly plugs into the side of it ) both options take their power from the front camera direct and don't need a separate power source ....I'm sure there are other brands that do this too ...hope it helps ...even if a bit late in the day 

[StevieDexter]

I'm looking at buying the Nextbase 522 and rear camera and wondered if anyone has any pics or advice on routing that cable from the rear screen. I'm going to buy the Nextbase hardwire kit which means I'll have a hard wire from the dash cam to the fuse box which given the superb tutorial here shouldn't be too much of an issue, but I'll also have 6m of rear camera cable to route and/or hide which needs to feed back to the main dash cam. Any ideas tips or hints? Thanks

[Montozuma]

On 07/07/2020 at 16:55, StevieDexter said:

I'm looking at buying the Nextbase 522 and rear camera and wondered if anyone has any pics or advice on routing that cable from the rear screen. I'm going to buy the Nextbase hardwire kit which means I'll have a hard wire from the dash cam to the fuse box which given the superb tutorial here shouldn't be too much of an issue, but I'll also have 6m of rear camera cable to route and/or hide which needs to feed back to the main dash cam. Any ideas tips or hints? Thanks

 I am thinking of getting the same camera Which fuse you are thinking to go for? Did you manage route the cable for the back camera? 

[StevieDexter]

4 hours ago, Montozuma said:

 I am thinking of getting the same camera Which fuse you are thinking to go for? Did you manage route the cable for the back camera? 

I got the 522, rear window camera and hardwire kit for £168 from Halfords yesterday with a £20 off voucher which is a steal! Fitting was quick and easy and involved less swear words than I had expected. Sadly I'm still waiting for my Bear which is impatiently waiting at Emden so I have fitted it to my Insignia estate for the time being. I used it as a bit of a test really, so I can't give you specifics of where it will go in the Kodiaq yet. Utilise the wiring harness from the boot lid and take time to use the ribber trunking that holds the other tail gate wires, it the best way to keep it neat and get the cable to the headlining. As soon as I have the Bear I'll be fitting it in there. Hope that is marginally helpful for now! 

[JFR]

After looking at this post it has answered all questions i had.  
thank you for you post very helpful 

After looking at this post it has answered all questions i had.  
thank you for you post very helpful 

After looking at this post it has answered all questions i had.  
thank you for you post very helpful 

[Nimby]

Many thanks. You're so right in that the hardest bit was getting the glovebox down. I found I could do one side (using two hands) to just past the "point of no return", then the other side. I tried first doing both sides at once but failed.

I have a Nextbase Hardwire Kit V2 for my 522GW and the business end of that is small enough to feed through so you can start from the top.

[JFR]

Oh that’s good it’s the same as mine. 
i got the 322 and rear camera for my wife’s kodiaq I’ve still got my sportsline superb untill i retire (6years)if i stay that long. 
thanks again for your help

[StevieDexter]

Help!!!! I cant seem to get any fuse to work with my hardwire kit. Tried everything. I'm stumped! Set the bloody airbag error off to! 

 

Maybe a little more content since I've now come in the house and put the car back together before I swear and damage something! 

 

I've got a 522 Nextbase and a hardwire kit. I previously had the hardwire kit plumbed in to my Insignia before removing it recently to go in to the Kodiaq. I followed this posts steps originally (although I had the proper hardwire kit not my own makeshift one) and it worked perfectly. 

 

I did set the air bag error off annoyingly but I assume this has absolutely nothing to do with it not working. I've tried multiple 7.5 and 10amp fuses and various parts to test the earth but still nothing. 

 

Questions which I'm still not sure of:

1. Can the fuses work either way round?

2. Can the hardwire piggy back fuse work either way round?

3. Does it matter what size fuse is used?

4. Will the camera charge up from that connection if the battery is completely dead? I remember the original instructions for it were very strict about making sure it had some juice in it before you start trying to use it. 

 

TIA

Edited 1 September, 2020 by StevieDexter

[Kenny R]

The comprehensive guide at the start of this thread shows what fuse to use and also warns not to disconnect air bag switch.

Visit to dealer required to clear airbag fault.

[StevieDexter]

6 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

The comprehensive guide at the start of this thread shows what fuse to use and also warns not to disconnect air bag switch.

Visit to dealer required to clear airbag fault.

Yes I followed that and have done it previously. (I'm aware you posted this whilst I was editing my post).

 

I didn't disconnect the air bag switch and was very careful indeed. Didn't even take the end panel off just cracked it enough to feed the USB end up from the glovebox, trying to avoid messing with the air bag switch in any way. But to no avail! 

[Nimby]

2 hours ago, StevieDexter said:

 

 

Questions which I'm still not sure of:

1. Can the fuses work either way round?

2. Can the hardwire piggy back fuse work either way round?

3. Does it matter what size fuse is used?

4. Will the camera charge up from that connection if the battery is completely dead? I remember the original instructions for it were very strict about making sure it had some juice in it before you start trying to use it. 

 

TIA

 

All fuses work either way round. I used fuse #34 as recommended - just pulled it, inserted into the spare socket on the piggyback, then pushed that in the now empty socket. I think the supplied fuse with my kit was 2A. Hope you remembered to connect the earth to the Torx bolt too!

 

The camera will charge only when ignition is on, whatever that means these days with keyless start. I also have a 522GW and that doesn't mind its internal battery going flat. (Well, down to the point the  protection circuitry kicks in). Why not try charging it anyway with a mini-USB lead and mains USB charger?

 

Do you have the official Nextbase v2 hardwire kit? When I upgraded to the 522GW on my previous car with a generic cheapo Ebay kit, the dashcam continually rebooted itself using  so I got the recommended Nextbase one.

 

 

[StevieDexter]

I've just noticed on the Nextbase website that the hardwire kit already has a fuse in the piggy back kit. Does it need both holes on the piggy back filled!? Mine didn't come with a spare and it worked fine in my previous car without one in that spare slot. Looking for any possible reason it might not be working now!

 

I thought I'd charge up the camera today whilst using the car with the cigarette lighter plug but it seems that just runs the camera and didn't charge it at all. Just kept it ticking over and the moment I took the cigarette lighter out the camera was dead again. It hadn't stored any residual charge. So I've removed it and trying to find a cable to charge it indoors with to try again. Is that normal too? I would have thought the lighter socket would have charged it up. 

 

TIA

 

 

Edited 2 September, 2020 by StevieDexter

[Nimby]

Yes both sockets need fuses. The supplied one is for the dashcam, and you put the one you remove from the fusebox #34 in the empty piggyback slot to power the original circuit.

[Kenny R]

The piggy back needs 2 fuses in, a 2 or 5 Amp for the piggy back circuit and the rear wiper fuse you removed to fit the piggyback goes in the other.

If you plug the piggyback in the wrong orientation, the piggyback circuit won’t work with just the piggyback fuse in.

Edited 2 September, 2020 by Kenny R

[StevieDexter]

Ok thanks all. Finally have it working again. I've swapped it for the larger piggy back as I actually have a fuse for that one still in the box. Very perplexing as I'm adamant that I didn't have a camera fuse in the piggy back in my previous car. I remember wondering which slot I needed to use for the fuse, meaning there wasn't one in it already, and once I stripped out the kit from the old car, there would have been no reason for me to remove the fuse. Very odd. But through some trouble shooting and your answers its working again. Just to plumb in the rear camera tomorrow now. Thanks all. 

[JFR]

Just done the front dash cam. 
no problem at all thanks for the help with photos etc

[PaulCanning]

Same, just did mine in less than an hour on a Sunday morning. :-) 
Just to say that I did it with a 522GW from Nexbase and for the £15 extra got the hardwire kit too. 

 

The hardwire kit has a plastic "lever" for those nooks and crannies as well as 3 different sized piggy back fuse holders, I used position 34 on the fusebox which does the aircon etc and it fitted very nicely. (I have bought piggy backs via ebay / amazon before and needed to file them down due to the poor moulding and this probably influenced my decision to buy the specific kit).

 

I also already had a trim removal tool which made life very easy, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Fastener-Remover-Repair-Upholstery-Dashboard/dp/B06ZYHQ9XG/ref=sr_1_46?crid=38ARR2RY6E4HP&dchild=1&keywords=car+trim+removal+kit&qid=1601200737&sprefix=car+trim%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-46 which is less than a tenner on amazon, I had this for a previous job on my Mazda Bongo. You really do not need it but I used it and did make it a lot easier. 

 

Additionally, when removing the side panel with the passenger airbag switch, I turned off the airbag first (and learnt where the emergency key was in my keyless fob  )

I have no idea if that influenced the fact that I didn't trigger an error or not, but can't see that it did any harm and yes, I did switch it back on :-)

 

 

 

[PaulCanning]

Stupidly forgot to say a massive thank you to @silver1011 for the walkthrough!

Edited 27 September, 2020 by PaulCanning