got my vrs booked in at jabba's to have the remap removed:( due to clutch starting slipping. would replace clutch but selling car soon so not worth it.

anybody out there got any ideas if this will stop slipping with no remap or am i going to end up buying new clutch as well??

Probably will stop it slipping as much ....but.........it will slip and will need changing at some point.

Why not keep it on and drive more carefully. If the clutch really it that knackered then removing the map isn't really going to save you.

just curious, how long have you had it remapped for? was hoping to get it done myself, not so sure if i'm going to have to replace clutches:eek:

I would imagine the problem will still be there after removing the map anyway, it's not as if the car doesn't have a lot of torque standard!

To be honest it's normally driver imput that will kill the clutch.

Mines be re-mapped to 310lb/ft on the standard clutch since it had 12k on the clock. 25k later on issues.

If you ask too much down the rev range and "boot" it in 6th all the time it will most likely kill your clutch.

POSHFAN - try driving around the clutch, dont use full boost until say 2.5k rpm, also put the power on slightly slower. In other words dont be too heavy footed.

When the clitch is fully engaged you should be able to boot it regardless, it's when you're playing with the pedal that the slip occurs - if it occurs under load it's ****ed and no amoundt of being nice will save it! :thumbdwn:

When the clitch is fully engaged you should be able to boot it regardless, it's when you're playing with the pedal that the slip occurs - if it occurs under load it's ****ed and no amoundt of being nice will save it! :thumbdwn:

With a remapped PD130 that is not entirely right. The engine can produce more torque than the clutch and DM flywheel can take, even on a new clutch.

By learning to drive around it and effectively delivering the power more smoothly you can 'protect' your clutch.

Why not have it remapped to "cap" the torque?

From what I've read it's not the peak torque that's the only point of the remap. Rather, smoother delivery of more power through the rev. range.

J.

Why not get the remap un-done. Take it down to the dealer and get the clutch sorted under warranty. I assume you haven't got massive milage on it. Nothing to lose as it's buggered anyhow!

I've always driven VAG cars with a 'progressive' attitude towards acceleration, ie push / squeeze, don't slam it to the floor.

I've found they tend to respond better to that kind of driving than an on/off approach!

thanks for all the response.

car has done 52k (approx 30k a year), and clutch usually sips around 2500 rpm onwards. getting worse, can say i dont really rag it around as i do 200 mile a day somedays. hoping to get rid in next month so hopefully it should be ok.

the goody lady wife took it into jabba's this morning to have the remap removed and it seems to have done the trick - for now. just have to drive like an oap for a month!!!

There is a Vrs to aviod buying!

I got the clutch uprated and I should therefore not get the problem. However I never boot it in 6th at below 2.5k, in fairness I probably drop down to 5th if I really need to accelerate anyway as it will go do 3 digits very easily which I don't do in the UK

It is worth revving up a bit more with a remap, as it will allow it anyway and it's better for the whole car IMHO.

If you do replace the clutch and it's not under warranty, I'd personally uprate it. The price difference in material cost is almost nothing, the labour is the expensive bit.

Under warranty things are a tad different as if you do get it under warranty I'd imagine you'll have to take the standard clutch. Worth having a word with the service manager at the time to suggest an uprated clutch if they're happy to do it at a small extra cost though, they can always say no (and probably will )

spoke to my local skoda dealer at the start of the month and they wouldnt replace a slipping clautch after about 6k(even on a standard car!!)