Linked to another post of mine on using an oil suction pump to change oil. It's very specific to my engine- 1.4TDi ,listed as Haynes as AMF engine. Using an approx 3mm pipe down the dipstick pipe, I had problems with length of tube needed and an obstruction stopping a decent length going down. Any known problems in length or pipe diameter known about /

I have Fabia 2 and it is quite narrow but do-able. I use a Pela 6000 and the flexible tube-set fits down. you may need to slide it forwards and backwards a little to get fully down, though. My tip here is to slightly warm the engine to thin the oil and help the flow. This will also make the tube-set flex easier as you slide it down. When finished, pour a little clean, fresh oil down the tube to lube it and remove it slowly, again, pull, push a little at time. Pulling hard and unloved may chaff the plastic coating, dropping bits inside or making re-use unlikely and the tube-set costs around £18 to replace!

mrgf- BUT mine is AMF engine- Fabia MK1, 1.4tdi ,WITH a dipstick of at least 500cm long.

This is a Lazy way of removing old engine oil.There will always be some old oil,and sludge left in the sump,because the suction pipe may not be touching the sump bottom.The original way of changing the oil by removing the sump plug is a much better way

Andy- may I POLITELY refer you to post 1. O/T( =ON TOPIC) the post was about problems getting the suction pipe down the dipstick hole, not about the merits or otherwise of sucking up the oil vs the old method of taking out sump plug. I'd refer you also to other debates on the possibility of sludge with modern oils. One of the reasons for oil removal via dipstick hole was that MODERN OILS do not create sludge. As an aside- 505.01 at asda is £14 per 5 litre. Filter via on line is circa £3.5. Garage oil change is circa £90, with a certain quick fit place charging £45 for dubious oil and technicians. Then there's another problem- gettin out and under my automobile. I've got the tools+ experience ( all 50 years of it) ,ramps and a drive, but not a decent set of hips to let me get back of the ground.

You have missed the point, There could be some of the  old oil still left in the sump,even if as you quote modern oils do not create sludge.

I wonder if  Rolls Royce suck the oil out of modern jet engines? Sucking out the old oil is done by garages to make more profit because they can charge the same as if they were draining the oil out ,but not take so long to complete the job.

I've got the tools + experience (all 57 years of it) ramps,and a drive .Draining the sump will always be the  correct method.

57 Years of experience & if you have experience of doing a few dozen oil changes a day or just working in modern establishments including ones that might service Rolls Royce's or other prestige vehicles should have you knowing that professionals & others that suck out oil for H&S reasons and practicality should still be removing and replacing the sump plug.

Oil removed at operating temperatures and not just when 'warm'.  You are draining the residue oil left at the sump plug area.

Drain off or suction off engine oil.doc

Edited 22 August, 20187 yr by Offski

On ‎12‎/‎08‎/‎2018 at 22:59, VWD said:

Linked to another post of mine on using an oil suction pump to change oil. It's very specific to my engine- 1.4TDi ,listed as Haynes as AMF engine. Using an approx 3mm pipe down the dipstick pipe, I had problems with length of tube needed and an obstruction stopping a decent length going down. Any known problems in length or pipe diameter known about /

 

How far down does the extraction tube get? Can you match up that distance to either of the support brackets welded to the dipstick tube? (I'm assuming it looks like item 10 here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2003-225/1/115-115025/#10)

Edited 22 August, 20187 yr by Wino

I done mine (vrs) yesterday using a Pela 6000 extractor. There was more than enough tubing for my car and I assume it should reach down in most cars. I have read a lot from people being sceptical about how much oil is actually extracted, I have to say that I had to put 4.3ltrs of new oil in, so it must have got as much out as removing the sump plug. I did the change after driving 20 miles and the oil was quite hot and fluid.

the only way is to suck it out and on the first occasion THEN remove the plug, there may be a problem which would scupper future attempts or it may be poor technique   only then can you decide which

Andy - I think you missed last sentence

Quote

but not a decent set of hips to let me get back of the ground.

Hence my idea of using the dipstick method. My preferred method is with oil at engine normal temperature, but pump instructions say cool/cold oil. As for time to do the job- I only managed 2.5l in a lot longer than it would have taken me to stick car up on ramps remove the undercar shield and get out the sump plug.

Wino- Q-is the dipstick the same on all models, as the diagram you posted is not AMF engine ( chain, not belt). The tube provided was over .5metre long, but I could feel it catching on something at the end and had worries about tube getting stuck in tube. Q - is warning system pressure based or otherwise, as with removal of 2.5L ( engine NOT run), but with ignition on, neither orange or red led light came on. Oil light came on orange with ignition and went out as normal.

Cheshire- one kind tech on here told me that sump capacity is 4.2 L. I'd calibrated the receiver bottle previously .

 

The oil level warning system is temperature based, and I'd doubt if it is active or you are giving it enough time to reg oil level.

 

From what I have found, there are 2 temperature sensors and heaters, they should both read the same if the oil level is okay, if the oil level is too low the top sensor will read  higher temperature so bring on the warning light.

 

A completely different but much newer engine - my wife has an August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI with the EA211 engine, special notes at the top of the service work sheet "do not use vac oil removal method as too much oil remains in engine" - now that goes against the grain in two ways, firstly this new engine has been designed ignoring "newer" oil removal methods and secondly implies that no need to remove drain plug at oil change.

13 hours ago, VWD said:

Wino- Q-is the dipstick the same on all models, as the diagram you posted is not AMF engine

 

I think it is meant to be an AMF mate, though the diagrams are often a bit vague. That chain is driving your oil pump (item 1). The dipstick/tube is definitely not the same on all engines; are you saying that your dipstick tube doesn't look like the illustration?  Got a photo of what it does look like?

1 hour ago, rum4mo said:

The oil level warning system

 

Don't think the OP's car will have this? Not sure that any UK Mk1 Fabia has it?

On 21/08/2018 at 23:03, VWD said:

Andy- may I POLITELY refer you to post 1. O/T( =ON TOPIC) the post was about problems getting the suction pipe down the dipstick hole, not about the merits or otherwise of sucking up the oil vs the old method of taking out sump plug. I'd refer you also to other debates on the possibility of sludge with modern oils. One of the reasons for oil removal via dipstick hole was that MODERN OILS do not create sludge. As an aside- 505.01 at asda is £14 per 5 litre. Filter via on line is circa £3.5. Garage oil change is circa £90, with a certain quick fit place charging £45 for dubious oil and technicians. Then there's another problem- gettin out and under my automobile. I've got the tools+ experience ( all 50 years of it) ,ramps and a drive, but not a decent set of hips to let me get back of the ground.

 

I fully understand if you cannot remove the sump plug,and drain the old oil yourself,under those circumstances perhaps using a friend ,or even a garage that you can trust. I notice some of the  posts, mention problems with using the suction method.I stand by the fact that when I see nothing coming out of the sump,I know all the old  oil is out. Not all modern ways of doing jobs are  the best.The mention about health and safety does not hold much water, you are just as likely to come into contact with old oil,which is on the tube before or after use, as you are removing the sump plug.

@VWD hauling this back on topic, I've just been looking at images of the AMF sump on ebay (this current listing has some nice photos), and there are some unusual features that may explain your lack of success. What angle was the car at when you extracted the oil?

 

It looks to me like you'd want it quite steeply nose-down to get the most out via suction tube, as the sump has some projections out the back which look like they'd harbour a fair amount of oil, and it looks like the dipstick tube 'socket' at the front will guide whatever is poked down it to one of the shallowest areas of the sump. I'm not sure what angle the engine sits at in the bay, but it looks like the various slopes of the bottom of the sump may make it quite a tricky one to correctly place the extractor tube at the deepest point.

It looks like the first point it hits will be quite a shallow area, then depending how the tube bends, and how far it gets pushed, it might go to the deepest part, and then possibly past and up the other slope towards the sump plug?

 

Presumably the engine does tilt backwards a fair bit in the bay, otherwise you'd struggle to get all the oil out via the sump plug with the car level on a lift?

 

This  image shamelessly borrowed from the above listing, has a red line that I've added showing the path that the dipstick tube will guide the extraction tube in on, and a red circle showing the sump plug. The slopes are quite nicely illustrated.

 

 

Wino - thanks- explains a lot. The tube included was 6.14mm external. and 1m long, but at .5m felt like it was catching on something. I could push it deeper into the sump, but this gave no appreciable amount of oil. I'd sat the car so that the front of the sump was angled lower than the rest, but even then all I got out was 2.5 litre.( I'd previously  marked out an old 5l screen wash container ).

I'd suggest that those of us who oil change at home using ramps get more of the old dregs out than a garage as to get to the sump plug needs removal of the skirt, which most folks need a set of car ramps , meaning the car is sitting with the plug lower than the engine. ( In my younger days I could possibly have done it without ramps as I've removed the fuel sender from a mini van without ramps . But not now, as even if I could get down ,I've got the disadvantage of a few decades of beer enjoyment and good yorkshire cooking causing a problem.

As for getting it done, I've got a biker SIL who helps when he can. All I was trying to do was be independent ( and save him an ear bashing from daughter, if he has to put off an oilchange as he's busy on his days off ) .

Andy- nothing like the old ways. As for the myths about HSA- I've been messing around with oil & grease for over 60 years and had no problem . Part of my duties in my first job was servicing of my vehicle and there was a day course in the garage on how to grease and change oil and filter/ check gearbox and diff oil. If you showed any aptitude or interest, the foreman mechanic would help explain and in a lot of cases help sort out problems with you own car.

There's also the advantage with my engine type ,with filter housing on top ,that you have the advantage of an extra flush with a litre or so of new oil down the filter bowl to get rid of and extra gunk in the sump.

^^^ lol,

Lucky you, many have messed about with asbestos for many years and red oxide and leaded petrol and are still here to tell the tale, 

then there are those that are a bit unwell and those that are very dead, but then everyone dies sometime of something.

Offski- I'm always reminded of all this HSE & eating crap, as my mums dad was an old fisherman who loved his salt herring. His choice was first boiling, as in cooked in water and fish salt as lick. Contrary to the health freaks he almost made it to his 100'drd birthday. But then he only retired at 75.

My mum is 93 and eats fish every day.

My dad was still working at 75 and later before dying from having worked in boats boilers and others with asbestos, stripping them annually for inspections.

We all used to change oil via sump plugs, knock the dust out of brake drums and the likes, but then processes change in the work places and in modern workshops servicing vehicles.  The DIY ways are fine for most, but then they are maybe just dealing with gallons of burst oil, not hundreds of gallons.

Brake dust, that will be the black stuff that ended up on my hanky and in my mouth.

I tend to use disposable gloves when dealing with dirty nasty stuff now, it just makes sense as well as saving a bit of time washing up afterwards.

Used Freons at work for cleaning like it was water, as many did in the past, ended up breathed in enough refrigerants as well R245FA which was a bit narcotic, as an added bonus to make the day happier.

 

Wait till we go all electric, then we have the "jaggy stuff" to annoy us, a cleaner killer?