Hi,

 

I'm at my wit's end with the handbrake on the Mrs' 2001 estate. I've changed almost everything, and it's still rubbish!

 

I changed the cables and shoes today. The old cables were ok-ish, but the handbrake lever was pretty seized on one of the old shoes. After refitting, I've had to wind the adjuster all the way in at the handbrake end, and the performance is still ropey.

 

So far, I've changed:

Drums ~ 2 years ago, but still good

Shoes and cables today

Slave cylinders about a month ago

The springs and keepers at the same time as the drums

 

The self-adjuster wedges are dropping when the brake pedal is pressed, but the handbrake is really long, and doesn't feel like it's doing an awful lot. It will hold the car, but only at full adjustment, and about 3/4 of its travel.

 

The only thing I can think of is there's wear on the solid bar at the top of the shoe set, but I'm clutching at straws.

 

Any suggestions, please?

 

Cheers,

Iain

it sounds like air in the system??….but I know the handbrake is mechanical..so air in the systems should not count in this situation..

 

 

Have you double checked all the wedges, etc are properly seated/lubricated & those circlips etc are holding the springs in place etc...

 

sorry my "of the top of my head" knowledge of drums went years ago ..2000yr when I last had drums...

Have you tried helping the wedges down a bit further just in case they are not completely getting the shoes out far enough when the brakes are "off"?

Edited 1 September, 20187 yr by rum4mo

If you have just fitted new shoes you need to give them chance to bed in a bit before getting they will be working at full efficiency.

 

Generally how I have always adjusted rear drum brakes when fitting new shoes is to loosen the handbrake cable right off, adjust the auto adjusters on each set of shoes until you can just get the drum back on, then adjust the cable to get the correct amount of clicks on the handbrake lever, go for a quick drive making sure you use the brakes a few times (they are fully warmed up), when you get back lift each back wheel and make sure they are free with the handbrake off, while the wheel is off the ground apply the handbrake one click at a time and see how many clicks until each wheel locks, they should be roughly the same before the wheel locks.

 

 

The teeth on the adjuster wedges can wear out.

 

 

I replaced my shoes with a kit that came with all new springs, adjusters and all the other bits. Handbrake is shit-hot now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 September, 20187 yr by TMB

1.9sdi year 2000,I overhauled my rear brakes with new drums,shoes,and cables.At first I replaced the  handbrake cables with pattern ones.I noticed the bowden cables was smaller diameter than the original ones. The Handbrake was not very effective,and I was continually adjusting them because the cable was stretching. I bought genuine Skoda cables,and that cured the problem. 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies and tips. I had another look at the brakes again today. After bleeding the rear slaves, and with the help of the Mrs, I was able to wiggle the wedges down a bit further than the spring alone would manage.

 

It's still not brilliant, but at least there's some spare adjustment in it now.

 

Cheers,

Iain

Are you adjusting the rear brakes with the drums on or off?

 

Are the drums lipped?