Help sourcing DSG flywheel and clutch pack

[trygve123]

Thanks! how did you see it was defect?  did it rotate more than 5 tooth? have you desided if you are going to change the clutch pack also? about the oil filling metod i would add 5 liter with new filter. i filled without the filling tool and thru filter housing. took some time. installed old drain plug. let car run for 10-15 min. go thru all gears. connect vcds and wait for it reaches above 35C Drain. (mine drained 3dl out) so total 4.7 liter. install new drain plug/seal. and then reset dsg with vcds.. 

[Bagpuss]

Not going to do the clutch this time, as I've run out of time. I need the car for a work trip over the weekend. 

I'm actually considering rebuilding the clutch pack, rather than replacing it. You can get an uprated set of steels and friction plates for far less than buying the whole clutch pack. They should last a lot longer, and handle more power (should I want to go down that road). 

Now I know how to get the transmission out, I won't be afraid to do it again when the clutches start to fail. 

[trygve123]

Sounds like the way to go! i asked a workshop yesterday. if the trans oil did not have many miles they just drained it and filled it with the used oil. Uprated set and some tuning would be nice. ill might do a Stage 1 inkl dpf. egr delete while im there. Good luck to you! 

[chimaera]

6 hours ago, trygve123 said:

Sounds like the way to go! i asked a workshop yesterday. if the trans oil did not have many miles they just drained it and filled it with the used oil. Uprated set and some tuning would be nice. ill might do a Stage 1 inkl dpf. egr delete while im there. Good luck to you! 

EGR delete on a VAG common rail is a really bad idea: it's too tightly integrated into the engine and engine management to be removed without problems.

[trygve123]

I really dont understand. block it and delete it from ECU. whats the problem then?

[chimaera]

1 hour ago, trygve123 said:

I really dont understand. block it and delete it from ECU. whats the problem then?

It's not trivial to remove it from the ECU is the problem. EGR is no longer a single block of code that can just be deleted, it's embedded across all ECU functions.

[trygve123]

On 30/11/2018 at 22:06, chimaera said:

It's not trivial to remove it from the ECU is the problem. EGR is no longer a single block of code that can just be deleted, it's embedded across all ECU functions.

Thanks! I will have it in mind and have a extra look into it 

[jafo]

It is also illegal - at least in the UK. 

[Bagpuss]

Job done, and the car is back together. Took a bit longer than I expected. Had to drop the subframe in order to get the box back in.

You could probably do it with the subframe in place if the car was on a ramp, and you have a couple of people to help with the box.

As I was using axle stands, it just wasn't possible.

 

Car is running very nicely again.

[trygve123]

10 hours ago, Bagpuss said:

Job done, and the car is back together. Took a bit longer than I expected. Had to drop the subframe in order to get the box back in.

You could probably do it with the subframe in place if the car was on a ramp, and you have a couple of people to help with the box.

As I was using axle stands, it just wasn't possible.

 

Car is running very nicely again.

Well done! did you take it all the way off? did you mark it ? or will you have a new alignment? Where did you find the torque specs ? Thanks. 

[Bagpuss]

18 hours ago, trygve123 said:

Well done! did you take it all the way off? did you mark it ? or will you have a new alignment? Where did you find the torque specs ? Thanks. 

Took the gearbox off (see pic below), and then replaced the flywheel. 

Didn't touch the clutch at all. Got all the torque specs. and procedures from the Skoda service manuals (which I downloaded from Erwin). 

Got new stretch bolts for flywheel, driveshafts and hub. The hub bolt is seriously tight. 200Nm plus 90 degrees. Was almost impossible to do. Sheared my short SnapOn extension off trying. 

 

As for the clutch, I'll do change it when it starts to slip, which hopefully won't be for a little while yet. 

 

Edited 4 December, 2018 by Bagpuss

[Jonnys19882]

Great results!

Did you have the clattering on start up before you fixed it?

Mine 2011 170 144k miles, is juddering (slightly) when you take your foot off the brake, if you touch the accelerator as you take your foot off the brake it doesn’t do it. Did yours have anything similar?

 

[Bagpuss]

On 06/12/2018 at 10:21, Jonnys19882 said:

Great results!

Did you have the clattering on start up before you fixed it?

Mine 2011 170 144k miles, is juddering (slightly) when you take your foot off the brake, if you touch the accelerator as you take your foot off the brake it doesn’t do it. Did yours have anything similar?

 

Didn't have any clattering, but did have some bad judder when stopping the engine. 

My symptoms were as I documented in the earlier post here:

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/458755-help-sourcing-dsg-flywheel-and-clutch-pack/?do=findComment&comment=5154751

 

The video linked in that post shows exactly what my car was doing. I never experienced any juddering on take off, but I guess that could be part of the symptoms if the flywheel is more worn than mine. 

[Jonnys19882]

Didn’t see that thanks. 

Mine has no noise whatsoever, just that slight judder. 

Maybe im being over picky (not the first time)