Preparation is the key.  Happens ever year so Vorsprung Durch Technik. 

 Change the Pollen / Cabin filter if needed and have a dry car inside and use A/C when you can.

   Get that Fuel Filler flap & inside clean & polished and use Silicone spray.

(& -23 *oC Screen Wash if needs must.)

Edited 3 December, 20187 yr by Offski

Meh, we have a 15 year old Golf GTI with no a/c and not the greatest door seals, as per everything that VAG were building at the time.  My sympathy is limited 

Japan's are worse especially some Toyota and Suzuki every time I used to get in my customer's vehicles before got warmed mostly winter's time they were kick my ***. 15 years old cars also.

Edited 3 December, 20187 yr by AkisVH

Suzuki Jimny 1998-2018 one of the best heaters and non misting interior glass of any vehicle if the interior is left dry before low temps decend.

Lets hope the New Jimny is as good.

 

PS

Remember to unplug the Greenhouse heater from the extension cable before driving off.

If set at for about 2-4 *oC inside the car the exterior glass is unlikely to ice up.

Edited 3 December, 20187 yr by Offski

My relevant personal experience has seen the issue mostly in Swifts and some Vitaras..

 

Yes, if there is moisture in them then condensation and Jack Frost does happen.

The Suzuki built in Hungary i found to be better than VW Group cars designed and built in Central Europe, Germany, Slovakia, Czech Republic etc even Audi built in Hungary..   

Volvo / Saab usually fit for purpose.

Few minutes with AC and issues are gone in one 1'.

Should not bother so much..

And a small box dehumidifier does help a lot so not to keep yourself busy with towels and clothes sweeping the screens.

A/C not functioning if disabled or not functioning well though with very low ambient temps.

 

A/C best on when driving and temps not too low and then the car not left full of H20 in the seats, on the mats or carpets or in Skoda / VW vehicles inside the doors trapped by seals unless the door opened and the water allowed to drain from passengers doors.

51 minutes ago, Offski said:

Preparation is the key.  Happens ever year so Vorsprung Durch Technik. 

 Change the Pollen / Cabin filter if needed and have a dry car inside and use A/C when you can.

   Get that Fuel Filler flap & inside clean & polished and use Silicone spray.

(& -23 *oC Screen Wash if needs must.)

Thanks. I currently do all this apart from, the Filler cap? Windows are sparkling, car is bone dry. It seems fine until I get in then all of a sudden its all fogged up. Then I have to wait ten mins for it  to clea. 

34 minutes ago, AkisVH said:

My relevant personal experience has seen the issue mostly in Swifts and some Vitaras..

 

Yea my mum has a swift and its as bad as mine. 

Yep, I've a 06 1.9PD that fogs up and takes 10 minutes to clear, in cold weather most folks scrape ice on the outside, I do inside too!

You may find the following video useful. 

 

Its practically automatic that we crank the heater on full blast and either lower the windows or leave the doors open until they are clear. 

 

 

Widespread problem. When the condensation forms ice on the inside of the windscreen takes a long time to shift. The advice to drive off without waiting for the engine to warm up is only applicable to summer. I sit with cold engine, aircon on and heater on max and 12mpg showing on display when I start the journey I hate it!!

Edited 3 December, 20187 yr by edbostan

Not that it helps but I just get in my MK2 Octavia and drive...

 

Never had any issues with condensation in the 4 years I've had it. All I do is make sure the windscreen gets cleaned occasionally and not leave wet stuff in the car

34 minutes ago, Fin69 said:

You may find the following video useful. 

 

Its practically automatic that we crank the heater on full blast and either lower the windows or leave the doors open until they are clear. 

 

 

Got to love a NASA geek.

My old car was a Rover 45 L-Series diesel... They were well known for misting up (showing the Honda HHR heritage!) and the diesels were veeeerrrrry slow to warm up. In comparison, my Octavia is loads better as far as the mist goes!

 

I still employ the same tactics for demisting/de-icing as I did on my rover though. One tip is to put a hot water bottle on the dash about 30 mins before setting off in the morning. Helps no end!!

There are obviously times when I wouldn't leave my door or windows open, no matter how much condensation there is. 

 

 

Had the wife open the sunroof on one car and not close it when she got home. 

It rained that night and the next morning the front foot wells were like wells. Bailed some water out.

Not long after this I had several days of scraping ice off all of the inside windows, as well as the outside windows.

 

Until I had managed to completely dry the car out, this worked:-

Put a cover over the top of the car and then open the windows a quarter of an inch but under the cover.

On some cars you might need to turn the alarm off.

Then the temperature inside is the same as the outside and there is no cold surface for condensation to appear on.

 

The wife just puts her car in the garage. 

 

Thanks AG Falco

6 hours ago, Fin69 said:

obviously times when I wouldn't leave my door or windows open

 

They can also open doors?

 

 

Thanks AG Falco

Not the night to be drying out cars with windows open in much of Scotland.

http://trafficscotland.org/weatherstations

 

I always hated my MK2 Octy for this. The 2013 Leon is bad too. However HFW on the Superb means it’s no longer an issue on just that car. One of my reasons for getting one with HFW. 

6 hours ago, gav_is_con said:

I always hated my MK2 Octy for this. The 2013 Leon is bad too. However HFW on the Superb means it’s no longer an issue on just that car. One of my reasons for getting one with HFW. 

My next car is def going to have hfw. I drive a transit at work, it has hfw and it is brilliant. 

 

On ‎03‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 11:05, n888vrs said:

Yea my mum has a swift and its as bad as mine. 

 

My swift doesn't seem too bad, despite some form of 'residue' that is still remaining on it from its time at the dealers that still hasn't cleaned off fully.

 

However, what I do find frustrating is that I can get it clear but then it doesn't stay clear as the 'Auto' setting seems to prioritise the footwell only and not put a portion of airflow to the screen - so I end up switching between 'screen' and 'Auto'...