Super charger clutch replace on vrs?

[max25591]

Hi I have been lurking since I bought new in 2011. Keeping an eye on all topics, and scaring myself with all the horror stories of the vrs being a ticking time bomb...

 

I have had it since 2011, now with 72k miles, I thought I had one of the "good" ones as it initially used about of oil but sorted itself out and had all the gearbox mineral change e.t.c. but did suffer from missfires from time to time 

 

The other day I was on the motorway when I tried to overtake and I got a big missfires. Which caused me distress as the oil light was flickering until I got to a stop and restarted and was fine. I took to machanic to get it checked out and replaced all plugs as he said they looked like they had done 20k miles - they shouldn't have as I asked and was charged for replacing the plus only a few months prior. I thought that was problem solved, but it was only the beginning, unfortunately.

 

Initially it was fine but the mechanic said it may has a knocking and told me to monitor it. The it misfired again within a week so it went back. He replaced plugs but said it isnt driving right and when he swapped over the sensor, he couldn't clear a fault code and should take it next door to the electric guy. Which I did, when he was next free a week later.

 

In the meantime the oil light was on constantly and it had decided to put a 3k rpm rev limiter on itself, useful!

 

When I took to the electric guy he eventually found and cleared the fault it was a fuse was being blow to the super charger, even on start up. So it took him 2 hours £180 later and I still had the same problems as I went In There.

 

His advise was that the supercharger clutch is broken/constantly engaged. He wasn't sure if it could be replaced or the whole supercharger had to be. I am sure I have seen a few people have to replace their superchargers and would like your feedback!

 

I was quoted £1.1k for a new supercharger with fitting, as it's quite a big job?

 

For now I'm stuck with 3k rev limiter and apparently no way of bypassing the supercharger.

 

Any advise much appreciated!

 

 

[Kobayashi]

Others will be along shortly,  check this thread, nobody knows why or how the supercharger fails, some have failed before 30k.... 

 

[Ootohere]

Water Pump & Magnetic Super Charger Clutch is the usual issue.

 

If someone that knows little about the cars is saying it is the Supercharger best know they know their stuff or go to where they do know.

 

Beware of those that can rip you off.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457262-2013-fabia-mk-ii-vrs-rattle-to-left-of-engine

 

Edited 10 December, 2018 by Offski

[max25591]

Thanks for the feedback I will enquire regarding water pump as that should be a smaller job and not need a new supercharger?

[Mickmartin]

I Cant figure out why a failing  super charger clutch would ever bring an oil light on. You said its in limp mode and going above 3k so it must be throwing up an engine management light? If so what fault codes are showing when you plug it in as any decent diagnostic tool will tell you if the clutch is failing and did your mechanic ask you to price up a supercharger? The only reason I find this suspect as you can replace the clutch separately for a fraction of the price of the supercharger.

 

Have you lost any oil?

Edited 13 December, 2018 by Mickmartin

[Ootohere]

I missed the bit in the op on oil light. What was that the yellow oil can for low oil or red can for low oil pressure.  Crap castrol 5w 30 and spirited driving can give those warnings. Or low oil. As to the water pump the connector can corrode from coolant leaks and have all shorts play up. Cruise control and the water pump and supercharger clutch going can hVd the engine light on or the epc and the car in limp mode with the turbo disabled. 

[SuperbTWM]

I don't know why they bother fitting any oil related warning lights because a lot of people don't seem bright enough to interpret what they mean or the consequences that can occur

Edited 14 December, 2018 by SuperbTWM

[Mickmartin]

On ‎13‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 14:17, Offski said:

I missed the bit in the op on oil light. What was that the yellow oil can for low oil or red can for low oil pressure.  Crap castrol 5w 30 and spirited driving can give those warnings. Or low oil. As to the water pump the connector can corrode from coolant leaks and have all shorts play up. Cruise control and the water pump and supercharger clutch going can hVd the engine light on or the epc and the car in limp mode with the turbo disabled. 

 

Never heard of this happening via a coolant leak on these motors, The tensioner is more likely to seize on the water pump after a leak causing issues. The oil light on his doesn't sound water pump related at all but I could be wrong.

 

Get it plugged in and and let us know the error.

 

2 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

I don't know why they bother fitting any oil related warning lights because a lot of people don't seem bright enough to interpret what they mean or the consequences that can occur

 

So the rest of us sensible people don't deserve warning lights, Haha how kind.

[nachofabiavrs]

Hi friend...
I was reading your problem and I want to tell you about my experience.
a couple of weeks ago, my car began to sound horribly like it was the distribution chain and in short was the water pump, which brings a magnetic mechanism that works with electric pulse ... the water pump works with the belt of accessories (alternator) and when the engine is required, it electrically couples with magnets another mechanism that makes the supercharger turn ... according to what I understand the Eaton supercharger that they put in these models is a dry screw charger and not with oil .
surely the failure of your car is that the magnet is stuck or some fault with the plug of the pump ... but in no way has to do with a warning with the engine oil ... at least in my engine 1.4 tsi I know he consumes oil and if you are not careful he lowers the level too much until he warns you.
regards

[Paul5000]

Well I've just had my skoda fabia vrs come up with MAGNETIC CLUTCH FOR MECHANICAL CHARGER OPEN CIRCUIT come up on Independants diagnostic. They have said try Redex and if that fails it's the dealership.

If anyone had any advice as to how to proceed that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

[Ootohere]

Who said try REDEX and were they drinking it at the time?

 

You will want to find a competent technician to fit your new water pump and 2 belts i suspect.

 

Don't get ripped off with an hour or 2 of diagnostics and then the job getting done.

 

Has the coolant dropped even a little, and what else have you had, a EPC or Engine Light.

How old is your car and how many miles?

[Paul5000]

 

 

Thanks for your reply mate.

 

Redex - Its a good independent garage who have never seen that fault before. They're good guys who were just making a general low cost stab at a solution if something was sticking in there.

 

The car is 2013 and done about 69k.

 

The engine light came on 7 days ago. Independent garage ran diagnostic which stated undisclosed fault. It cleared the engine light off and car has been fine for 7 days.

But today (the 7th day) and the engine light came back on with the errorn ode stated above.

Dont know about coolant level I'm afraid.

 

[Ootohere]

The link with parts and prices is in a post up the page.

Likely it will be the Water Pump / Supercharger Magnet Clutch, Belts, seal and coolant needing replaced.

So no more than £500, hopefully less.

 

Do not let anyone without a clue near the job.

[Paul5000]

Thanks for the info Sir.

I'm just mopping up my tears!

[nachofabiavrs]

Hi guys!

 I need your help ... A few months ago I changed the water pump for a new one, but do not change the belt of the super charger, about a month ago the engine failure light turns on and the scanner says it is lack of pressure in the super  charger.  The failure is only once is not always do it but I do not know if it is the water pump or the strap ... Being in a 2000 rmp and accelerate it activates the supercharger and emits a strange noise then it is removed and  lower rpm and accelerate again does the same .... After a while and walking in the car stops making the noise

[Paul5000]

Skoffski, is it something that needs doing ASAP would you say? Is damage likely to occur the longer the car is in this position? Thanks again