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LED DRL's

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I have a 2016 1.2 Automatic Yeti that I am very pleased with but would like to change the DRL bulbs to LED.It seems that some models do have LED DRL bulbs fitted as standard.The daylight running lights are part of the main headlights . I have had the fitted bulbs out and they seem to be twin filment small baynet bulbs. Has anyone come across replacement LED bulbs and if so have you got part number.

Robert

Have a look at the relevant topics in this forum search.  From memory, it usually doesn't turn out well, and seems a lot of faff for what is basically a cosmetic 'upgrade'.

The cars with xenon HIDs have LED DRLs; standard halogen lights have regular incandescent DRLs (which I believe double-up as sidelights).  You’d most likely have to fool the CANBUS with resistors, which then undoes any power-saving benefit leaving just a cosmetic difference with questionable visibility as LEDs tend to be very directional as opposed to the omnidirectional output of a filament.

Just a bit of info'. In my previous car, a 2010 Octavia, the one with the DRL next to the fog light low down in the bumper, I tried literally every bulb I could on the market that, "Guaranteed" no bulb warnings and the only ones that didn't eventually fail were cheapos from an online bulb site. They were still in the car when I sold it.

 

I eventually found some sidelight LEDs that worked and when my friend, who had the identical car to mine tried them he got a bulb warning?

 

I've also tried the working sidelight LEDs in a pre-facelift Yeti and they gave a bulb warning.

 

The full units for number plate lights worked in my Octavia for a while but then I got a warning and they were £30.

 

I am reliably informed that bulbs with resistors work but that kind of defeats the object of getting low voltage bulbs and the resistors get stupid hot so they could cause a fire.

 

In conclusion, it is my belief that you need to hunt around until you find some that suit your car because it is no guarantee that they will work in yours even if they work in another.

Edited by WFM

1 hour ago, WFM said:

In conclusion, it is my belief that you need to hunt around until you find some that suit your car because it is no guarantee that they will work in yours even if they work in another.

 

A better plan is to buy quality 'CAN-bus unfriendly' bulbs and recode the car to expect LEDs.

 

This requires a modern enough BCM to support LED lighting (from around 2011?) and access to ODIS-e or VCP.

23 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

A better plan is to buy quality 'CAN-bus unfriendly' bulbs and recode the car to expect LEDs.

 

This requires a modern enough BCM to support LED lighting (from around 2011?) and access to ODIS-e or VCP.

 I agree but, I assumed that this wasn't an option for the poster.

On 21/02/2019 at 14:08, weasley said:

The cars with xenon HIDs have LED DRLs; standard halogen lights have regular incandescent DRLs (which I believe double-up as sidelights).  You’d most likely have to fool the CANBUS with resistors, which then undoes any power-saving benefit leaving just a cosmetic difference with questionable visibility as LEDs tend to be very directional as opposed to the omnidirectional output of a filament.

My pre-facelift Elegance has HID headlights but halogen DRLs.

Yes, sorry - I was referring to post-FL cars as this appears to be what the OP has.

  • 2 months later...

I think I am in the same position. I replaced the incandescent bulbs with "CANBUS compatible" ones, but get the bulb failure warning, the bulbs of course work OK. Can I use VCDS to re code to accept the LED's, or disable the bulb failure warning without turning off bulb failure for other circuits. I also read that LED's seem to be regarded as not legal for road use, which seems bizarre as many newer cars are now fitted with various external LED's.

The easiest thing to do is to add some resistors to the DRL's although if you know someone with VCDS you can "remove" the DRL from the bulb failure system or, I believe, recode them as LED's.

27 minutes ago, Philh77 said:

Can I use VCDS to re code to accept the LED's, or disable the bulb failure warning without turning off bulb failure for other circuits.

 

Probably not on a 2014 model. You'll need someone with VCP or ODIS-e that's familiar with editing the lighting section of the BCM EEPROM.

 

29 minutes ago, Philh77 said:

I also read that LED's seem to be regarded as not legal for road use, which seems bizarre as many newer cars are now fitted with various external LED's.

 

Each light cluster will have gained type approval with a particular kind of light source. Changing the light source for any other type/design will effectively void the type approval and technically make it not road legal. The UK MOT has now been updated allowing the tester to fail any LED or HID fitted in place of a halogen bulb as 'light source and lamp not compatible'.

 

Generally speaking, as long as it's not a headlight and you're using a quality LED of an appropriate brightness/colour, it's probably not going to be a problem.

  • Author

Try fitting these to wiring going to bulb ,should cure your problem,  did with mine. eBay item ( 152770345494 )

12 hours ago, dustrat said:

Try fitting these to wiring going to bulb ,should cure your problem,  did with mine. eBay item ( 152770345494 )

 

Those are 50w!!
Maybe OK for indicators as being sold for that are on briefly but would be fried (and other complications)  running with DRLs.

  • Author

I fiited these to cure problems with DRL's

Those resistors are 6 ohms and would be the equivalent load of roughly a 25W  halogon bulb.

3 hours ago, muddyjim said:

Those resistors are 6 ohms and would be the equivalent load of roughly a 25W  halogon bulb.

 

 

They need to change the " 12V 50W " advertised and printed on the resister then.

2 minutes ago, Urrell said:

They need to change the " 12V 50W " advertised and printed on the resister then.

 

50W is the maximum power the resistors can handle, not the amount of power they will try and consume.

 

Quick bit of calculation based on a 6 ohm resistor using ohms law shows that in a:

- 12v circuit they will use ~24W

- 14v circuit they will use ~33W

 

Being rated at 50W means there is plenty of headroom to avoid them overheating in use.

 

For example, they would not be suitable on a 24v system as they would draw 96W until they overheated and burnt out ;)

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