Fabia 1.4tdi master cylinder replacement

[7600ee]

I recently stated having issues with my skoda fabia mk1 1.4tdi gears. Gears were crunching quite a bit and taking more force to engage. I bled the slave cylinder and it drove fine for a day or two. The pedal still felt good though

 

I ordered a new slave cylinder to see if it was that as I thought this would be more likely than master. I went to replace the slave and I received the wrong part (the bleed nipping is hitting gear linkage). Once out the old slave cylinder looks okay to me and no obvious signs of fluid. 

 

Inbetween this I spoke to a mechanic who suspected it to be the master cylinder. He told me it's behind the pedal but didn't go into anymore detail. Can anyone help with the process of replacing it? I pulled out the small panel under steering wheel and I can see the master. Do I need to jack the car up and go in from the engine bay side? Any help would be much appreciated. 

 

On a side note I've been looking at buying a mk1 vrs to replace my 1.4tdi. I haven't looked in a while but it seems the prices have went up? Anyone looking at selling soon? 

 

Thanks

[7600ee]

I have replaced the master cylinder now. I managed to get my hands on a Haynes manual which wasn't great but pointed me in the right direction. Very fiddly job but not difficult so to speak. 

 

However I also need to replace my slave cylinder (which I have done before). However I rounded off the bleed nipple then snapped it trying to get it out. I ordered a new one from ebay and its the wrong part (nipple hits gear linkage). So I ordered another one and same thing it doesn't fit (pipe and bleed nipple hit of gear box at wrong angle). 

 

Can anyone link me to the correct clutch slave cylinder for fabia mk1 1.4tdi 06 plate? 

 

Thanks 

[TMB]

Item 30 here but there's three different ones and I'm not sure which one is for your car....

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/7/721-721025/

 

 

Edited 27 February, 2019 by TMB

[Breezy_Pete]

Can you check the data sticker on the boot floor, looking for gearbox code?

[7600ee]

Thanks for the replies guys I've been away and came back to this today. 

 

I have the car working now after a long time left in the driveway. I'll write up what happened incase anyone has the same issue. 

 

When looking for clutch cylinders I couldn't find the one i needed. Although I didn't have the O-Ring which sits on the connecting pipe. This caused lots of leaking which was immediately noticeable. I sourced numerous o rings which didn't fit right so I ordered the genuine part online which took over a week to arrive and cost £10. This also didn't solve my issue. I gave tps my registration and ordered a new slave cylinder through them but when I went to pick it up it was the wrong one (looked to be anyway).

 

The guy from tps showed me that the pipe which connects onto the slave cylinder has been superceeded about 6 times which means that my old pipe is not compatible with my new slave cylinder. This was fortunately the issue so £60 later for a new pipe the clutch feels good as new... 

 

However because the handbrake has been on for almost 2 months (car was jacked up at front) the rear wheels are seized. I managed to un-seize one wheel by driving up the drive but the other one won't budge. Any tips for solving this? I've previously smacked the drum with a hammer which has worked but any other ways of doing it? 

 

 

 

[rum4mo]

The issue with buying evolved/improved/changed parts where there is a knock on effect, ie now needs other parts changing is always highlighted on proper/official parts listings by the addition of some thing in the comments field, I've been there done that with a headlight washer pump on my old Passat (new car side connector body required), so that is why either checking a proper/official parts listings or buying direct from VW Group dealers is the best plan - now that we both, and I'd think, many others, have been caught out.

 

Seized rear drum brakes, it will probably be rust that has "glued" the friction material to the drum, so attacking the drum and/or trying to "drive it off" must be the way forward as removing a drum that is already seized is not going to be any easier than the other options. If you have the time it would probably be time to clean out or otherwise service these brakes, probably all of them, good luck.

[sepulchrave]

If the handbrake cable has definitely released on the stuck side then rocking the car back and forth then pressing the brake pedal hard and releasing may help unstick it.

[7600ee]

Thanks guys I'll give that a go and I'll update with how I get on. I think they could do with cleaning out but they have rounded screws so I don't really want to if I can get away with it

[VWD]

I had one rear seize on me and it turned out to be the old faithful - rivet on shoes sticking. The drum came off by tapping it with a hammer ,although this meant that the shoes etc parted company.  Be aware that when the shoes are off the pistons will push out a bit so possibly something like cable tie over the top of the pistons might do the trick. Again on assembly, the top spring accross the lever is not tensioned and tends to come loose .I got round it by tieing it to the lever till I was about to fit the drum.

[7600ee]

Jacked the car up today and gave the rest drum a good few whacks with a hammer which loosened all the rust up and cars running smoothly now. 

 

I tried moving the car forward and back with pressing the pedal but was still stuck on, was worth a go anyway!