Usual problem with the rear discs on my wife's Fabia 100 pdi. Severe corrosion on outer circumferences (about 15mm width). Presumably caused by lack of heavy loads and/or heavy braking so that the front discs do most of the work. Considering having the discs skimmed but would welcome thoughts about whether it would be more sense to replace discs.

Probably better to replace them.

By the time you have gone to the trouble of mounting them in a lathe etc and I don't think it's ever that advisable.

Genuine disks are around £25 + Mafia Tax a pair. £36 + Mafia Tax for Genuine Pads.

German Swedish & French didn't seem to be any cheaper but Euro Car Parts are about £13 for the pads and £15 for the disks, both plus VAT.

Stu

Thanks very much for that. It seems more sensible therefore, to replace the discs. Could you just confirm that they are the same discs as a VW Golf Mk 4 as that's what comes up on the Europarts web site?

Cheers, Bert

I couldn't be 100% sure but I think so.

I think they are both 232x9mm and 5/100 PCD.

When you go into ECP they'll be able to tell you for sure.

I have same problem with my rear discs! But will only use genuine parts now!!

when I changed the front I warped two pairs from different manufacturers, eventualy I used VW branded parts and they were ok.

The parts from ECP and GSF are generally OEM quality and often the same make.

Mine have the same issue, and I have been advised to change them. Is this not warranty work since nearly all owners on here get this issue :confused:

What can be done to reduce the chances of it happening again?

I got my brakes from VW Spares (www.vwspares.co.uk), I found them helpful and at £104 for 4 discs and a set of rear pads (delivered) quite reasonable compared to Mr S's prices.

my stealer quoted me £154 fitted for 2 rear discs and 2 rear pads. think i'm going to get the discs & pads myself though and just get them to fit 'em.

I believe you need a VAG tool for pushing the piston in, though. It has a helix screw in it for the handbrake, so while it is easy to lever the front pistons in, the back ones have to rotate at the same time. Might be possible without the tool, but tricky I imagine. Maybe someone nearby has a tool?

I think the tools are available for about £25, but that's 3rd hand info so you'd have to have a look around.

Rob

Thanks for the reminder, I've already got the required tool because the pads have been replaced once in an attempt to reduce the corrosion. Unfortunately the rear discs don't come off as easily as the fronts as IIRC there is a very awkward bolt on the lower suspension that has to be removed to give clearance for the disc to be removed.

what can be done to reduce corrosion? mine are shafted due to this after just 18 months, and the pads/discs themselves still have a fair bit of meat left on them but i have to change them now

what can be done to reduce corrosion? mine are shafted due to this after just 18 months, and the pads/discs themselves still have a fair bit of meat left on them but i have to change them now

Paint them. I painted the edges and centres of my brake discs with silver/grey hammerite. Don't worry about a little overspray as the pads take it off the first time you use the brakes. As long as you don't put too much paint where the pads actually make contact then it'll work a treat.

These pics will give you an idea what I mean: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dgace/tt_brakes.htm

thanks mate. since it's just the edges which are worn should i be ok just to continue to use the rear brakes or is it essential i replace them?