Octavia starting problems

[normanfcook]

Starts when cold but difficult to start when warmed up

[iriches]

Would be handy if you'd stated which engine you actually had....

 

There's a few threads on the issue here.  One such is this one, which points to battery and/or starter motor replacement as fixing it for some.  This was for a 1.9 PD 105.

 

 

[DJSmiley]

I know some VAG specialists here in the Netherlands have a fix available for this. Seems to be pretty common, heard good reports about the adjustments.

 

Off course, make sure your battery isn't the problem. If the battery is dead (or almost) this will cause a  lot of strange issues. If you have a booster, or another car, you can easily check this to see if jumpstarting the hot engine makes a difference.

 

My battery failed last year, while I was able to start with a cold engine, I couldn't when the engine was hot (actually, the battery was hot also, since it was in the summer and I've had a 2-hour trip, so everything under the bonnet was hot, including the battery)

 

In Dutch a page on the website of Vag techniek (one of the well respected VAG specialists over here)

https://www.vagtechniek.nl/chiptuning/software-oplossingen/tdi-startcorrectie/

 

[SuperbTWM]

If its the 105 PD engine its well documented that the starters are crap.  The solution is to either fit a new starter or alter the warm start map to allow for the lower cranking speed.

 

Obviously all other avenues should be checked first like battery condition, wiring etc. 

[J.R.]

Any links to other topics on that?

 

Mine has always sounded like it would not turn over more than one revolution when hot but has always fired up in half a revolution anyway, disconcerting nonetheless, maybe after a few years I would become blasé about it but for now its a concern.

[andyoctavia]

When I first bought our Skoda, it was a bit hesitant starting once the engine was warm. However the starting improved when we swapped the DMF for a solid flywheel clutch, and the only time it got worse was when the battery failed a couple of years ago.

NB. I always put the car in neutral and depress the clutch pedal when starting.

[MikeTheThinker]

6 minutes ago, andyoctavia said:

I always put the car in neutral and depress the clutch pedal when starting.

 

I started a RoSPA Advanced Driving course a couple of months back (done lots on 2 wheels, time to see how the other half lives <g>) and one of the first things they (re)taught me was exactly that; foot on clutch when operating the starter.  I'd been in the habit of doing it on the bikes but for some unknown reason have never done it in a car. I do now.

 

[andyoctavia]

18 hours ago, StickyMicky said:

 

I started a RoSPA Advanced Driving course a couple of months back (done lots on 2 wheels, time to see how the other half lives <g>) and one of the first things they (re)taught me was exactly that; foot on clutch when operating the starter.  I'd been in the habit of doing it on the bikes but for some unknown reason have never done it in a car. I do now.

 

Back in my cool dude, biker days, my mates and I went down to the beach one lovely day. I went back to check on my bike to make sure the ground was firm enough so that it wouldn't topple over. I went to move it and casually flicked the starter button without checking if it was in gear. The bike shot forwards and went straight over a couple's beach blanket which had their picnic on, fortunately they saw the funny side of it.

Exit one very uncool biker dude.

[silver1011]

When you guys make the move from the MkII to MkIII, depressing the clutch pedal to start the engine is now mandatory 

[MikeTheThinker]

7 hours ago, andyoctavia said:

went straight over a couple's beach blanket which had their picnic on

 

"Fast food"?

 

[pikpilot]

23 hours ago, silver1011 said:

When you guys make the move from the MkII to MkIII, depressing the clutch pedal to start the engine is now mandatory 

 

and on facelift MK ll

[phoneman(ret)]

Hi,

 

I have a (almost) 10 yr old Scout with the 2.0l PDI engine.  It always starts at about half a turn when cold (last year at -10 after standing for a week) no trouble in spite of only having one functioning glow plug.

 

Once it has warmed up, it has to turn over 2 to 3 revolutions (seems reluctant) to start.  Battery is new. I seem to remember mentioning this to where I have the car serviced in Sheffield (Autohaus Dolby - very good) and the crank position sensor was mentioned. Why it would only cause trouble when warm, no idea.

 

The sensor sounds expensive ! (isn't everything !) so I will live with it until it gets worse.

 

Cheers,

 

Lloyd

[J.R.]

It will be the cam position sensor that has an effect on whether it starts in half a turn, the function is called quick-start and the spacing of the trigger points allows the engine to know which cylinder is on the compression stroke within half a revolution, in the absence of that info the ECU defaults to the crankshaft sensor.

 

A problem with the crankshaft sensor will prevent the engine from running, a problem with the cam sensor will only affect the quick start function, sounds like yours has a problem when hot.

 

All the above info was learned from the excellent VAG self study guides from ErwinSkoda.

[Anddenton]

2 hours ago, phoneman(ret) said:

Hi,

 

I have a (almost) 10 yr old Scout with the 2.0l PDI engine.  It always starts at about half a turn when cold (last year at -10 after standing for a week) no trouble in spite of only having one functioning glow plug.

 

Once it has warmed up, it has to turn over 2 to 3 revolutions (seems reluctant) to start.  Battery is new. I seem to remember mentioning this to where I have the car serviced in Sheffield (Autohaus Dolby - very good) and the crank position sensor was mentioned. Why it would only cause trouble when warm, no idea.

 

The sensor sounds expensive ! (isn't everything !) so I will live with it until it gets worse.

 

Cheers,

 

Lloyd

If the battery is new the next suspect in line is often a worn starter motor.

[DJSmiley]

Back in 2011 when I bought my car (2005 O2) I had it checked by a local dealer. It sometimes had some issues starting. 

It did start always, but sometimes it took multiple turns before it actually started (instead of instant starting).

 

They told me a worn starter motor was a common issue, so I had to consider replacing it eventually (they quoted something like 350 eur or so, don't remember exactly)

 

Since it was starting, I didn't go for that.  About a year later, my battery died. I have replaced it by the biggest one I could fit (74Ah, if I remember correctly the original one was a 62Ah).  Price of the battery was only 15 eur more or so for the 74Ah.

 

After this new battery everything worked fine. Still, occasionally, I had to start for a few more seconds before she goes, but with the additional 12Ah juice I never had any issues or a flat battery.

This new battery lasted 5,5 years and failed last year. Replaced by yet another 74Ah (some cheap Polish thing, don't know how long that one will last...  but it was on a holiday trip)

 

The initial diagnose (worn starter motor) was made at 162k km (back in may 2011). At the moment the 'so worn starter motor' is still installed. Now at 420k km.... 

I'm sure a new starter motor might have been better for the battery and gives me a faster start, but for the price... The slightly heavier batteries (total about 30 eur or so more) doesn't make any sense to me unlike a 350 eur repair 

(Which probably can be cheaper if I don't do this at the dealer)...

 

also, never had the warm-start fix done (only a EGR remove). Might help also. For me: The car is old, high milage and still works -> Not a single reason to invest any further in a starter motor which still does its job

 

If the car has more issues, I would try the warm-start fix. And, when replacing the battery, just fit the biggest one you can install. Replacing the starter motor: Only if you really want this or if it completely fails. (Or if you just want to spend some money). 

Edited 12 March, 2019 by DJSmiley

[phoneman(ret)]

Hi

 

Seem to have my crank & cam mixed up ! It was the cam sensor mentioned by garage. Why would it only cause a problem when hot ? Is there something in the sensor which is reacting to heat ?  Any ideas of replacement cost ? 

Also, I would have thought that if the starter motor is on its way out, cold starting (more load) would be worse that hot starting ?

 

Cheers,

 

Lloyd

[Anddenton]

10 minutes ago, phoneman(ret) said:

 

Also, I would have thought that if the starter motor is on its way out, cold starting (more load) would be worse that hot starting ?

When hot the engine needs to meet a minimum number of rpm before the ecu will inject fuel, therefore a lazy starter could cause problems. When cold fuel is injected regardless of rpm.