I've just posted this on a VW forum I use a bit, but it's considerably quieter than this place, so hoping some of you won't mind taking a look.

I imagine many of the systems are identical or nearly so.

 

A few question for y'all about a 2002 Mk4 Golf 1.9 SDI, engine code AQM, manual gearbox. Approx 160k on the odo.  I've never worked on the mk4 platform so plenty of questions.
MOT due in a week or two, owner (friend) mentioned exhaust blow, missing engine undertray and nasty suspension noise from NSF, ABS light and airbag lights as her concerns.

I reassured that the undertray was a non-issue, and after a bit of observation, realised that the ESP light was on next to the ABS light but not the airbag light.

VCDS scan picked up just these two faults, first one pops straight back when cleared, second one has cleared OK:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes       Labels: None
   Controller: 1C0 907 379 M
   Component: ESP FRONT MK60      0102
   Coding: 0019458
   Shop #: WSC 00046
   VCID: 341B317E1723
1 Fault Found:
00285 -  ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45)
            012 -  Electrical Fault in Circuit

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags       Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.LBL
   Controller: 1C0 909 605 A
   Component: 27 AIRBAG VW51 01   0004
   Coding: 12855
   Shop #: WSC 00046
   VCID: 2237C726BDD7
1 Fault Found:
00589 -  Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131)
            32-10 -  Resistance too High - Intermittent

--------------------------------------------------

1. I've got a front right ABS sensor en-route, and couldn't see (visually and pull testing) anything amiss with the connector/wiring this afternoon, so hoping that may fix the ABS and ESP lights; if not I guess I'm into tracing wires back towards the ABS ECU. The ring on the hub looked relatively clean and uncorroded. Fair amount of debris stuck to the tip of the sensor but removing it didn't improve the situation.

2. Not really sure what to make of the airbag code with no warning light on the dash; opinions sought, please. She mentioned something about a garage having 'fixed it electronically' for her in the past, but the airbag warning light comes on at ignition as expected so would not appear to have been totally nobbled. Should pass as-is I guess.

3. I'd expected to find a bust spring to explain the graunching from NSF, but found a very torn apart lower arm rear bush instead, so that'll need doing. Are these easy enough to press out/in given suitable tooling? New 'bone doesn't seem too pricey, but other bits are going to add up...

4. Whilst checking the ABS sensor and wiring I found the inner brake pad down to pretty much metal to metal, and not much on the outer one, so it'll need new front discs and pads. Think she'll opt for cheaper end of spectrum part-wise, any worth totally avoiding?

5. Also found OSF CV boot split at the edge of the inner clamp, and a fair amount of grease spun out, so that looks like another fail.  Can this be done without completely removing the driveshaft? Hub-nut off, balljoint undone from wishbone,  pull hub off driveshaft, knock outer CV joint off outwards while hanging onto driveshaft, etc. ?

6. OS headlight also has a small hole and large cracks in it which I guess will also fail if presented for test.  Bumper off job to change out?

7. Exhaust appears to have a small hole just forward of the front pipe to next bit joint, and I think I felt another small finger-size hole in the topside of the back box. Not sure whether either would be a fail.

Some photos of some of these bits here, for consideration please.   The wishbone bush pic is from the good side, disn't get a pic of the shredded one, just posting to show the type for comparison with Octy arrangement.

Thanks for any comments.

Looks like next Saturday will be a busy one for me.

Edited 10 March, 20197 yr by Wino

1. I've got a front right ABS sensor en-route, and couldn't see (visually and pull testing) anything amiss with the connector/wiring this afternoon, so hoping that may fix the ABS and ESP lights; if not I guess I'm into tracing wires back towards the ABS ECU. The ring on the hub looked relatively clean and uncorroded. Fair amount of debris stuck to the tip of the sensor but removing it didn't improve the situation.

 

I take it you have sourced an aftermarket sensor, the one aftermarket ABS sensor I've bought before failed after a few months so you will have to give some feedback on which you used and whether it lasts or not as the genuine ones aren't cheap.

 

2. Not really sure what to make of the airbag code with no warning light on the dash; opinions sought, please. She mentioned something about a garage having 'fixed it electronically' for her in the past, but the airbag warning light comes on at ignition as expected so would not appear to have been totally nobbled. Should pass as-is I guess.

 

Check the connector first, I presume its the airbag in the dash? connector probably behind glove box, if there is no light on, not sure if i would pursue anyway, like you say it will pass an MOT 

3. I'd expected to find a bust spring to explain the graunching from NSF, but found a very torn apart lower arm rear bush instead, so that'll need doing. Are these easy enough to press out/in given suitable tooling? New 'bone doesn't seem too pricey, but other bits are going to add up...

 

I tend to always buy a new arm, but I presume you can press new bushes in, might be worth checking the lower ball joint while your in that area as well,


5. Also found OSF CV boot split at the edge of the inner clamp, and a fair amount of grease spun out, so that looks like another fail.  Can this be done without completely removing the driveshaft? Hub-nut off, balljoint undone from wishbone,  pull hub off driveshaft, knock outer CV joint off outwards while hanging onto driveshaft, etc. ?

 

Buy one of those stretchy universal boots and one of those cone tools which you place over the end of the CV joint. Soak the boot in hot soapy water and slide up the cone, over the CV joint and onto the driveshaft, no need to even knock the CV joint off.

6. OS headlight also has a small hole and large cracks in it which I guess will also fail if presented for test.  Bumper off job to change out?

 

Mine have a few large stone chips but have never failed an MOT, not sure if a crack would pass though. Bumper removal required, there are some fixings accessed by removing the front 2 lower grills IIRC so remember those

7. Exhaust appears to have a small hole just forward of the front pipe to next bit joint, and I think I felt another small finger-size hole in the topside of the back box. Not sure whether either would be a fail.

 

Mine is 10x worse in this area, its been welded, patched up with exhaust paste and it also has a jubilee clip holding some sort of patch on, I would try and weld up that hole in the centre section but if you don't have a welder I would find some other way to bodge it, doesn't look like this car is worthy of a new exhaust.

 

Edited 10 March, 20197 yr by SuperbTWM

Thanks man, all very helpful. It claims to be a genuine ABS sensor that I've bought, but not quite sure what I'll get. Item location said Hayes, UK but tracking info suggests it's coming from Poland.

Gonna try to pick up a cheap w'bone I think, rather than faff about pressing.

It probably is the car to try a stretchy CV boot on, thanks, hadn't really thought of that approach.

ABS sensor arrived and looks genuine so that's a good start.

Looks like I've got the job of doing this lot, as a local backstreet garage just quoted her 600 all-in...

Thinking of going secondhand for the headlight; can anyone confirm at a glance that the one in my photo is halogen not gas discharge, I'm not really sure what the latter might look like.*

Oh, and @Ju1ian1001, if you wouldn't mind giving your professional opinion whether that light, and that CV boot are definite fails, pretty please?

 

*Crossed out bit not reqd now, erWin has told me they're standard twin halogen.

Edited 11 March, 20197 yr by Wino

You can get those CV boots that are split which you superglue together round the joint for ultimate lazyness but never tried one. I have had mixed success with the stretchy boot, first time worked a charm on a 206 but when I tried it on a VW, the plastic cone I had was not wide enough for all the CV joint to go inside and and so once the boot slid up the cone it just got stuck on the outer part of the CV joint. Caused much swearing.

 

If you do have a bad time you can always go back to the usual way and knock the CV joint off but I wouldn't attempt this on the car for fear of pulling the inner joint to bits. Unless you have a puller?

 

Definitely go second hand genuine for the light if required, had some bad experiences with aftermarket headlamps, last set scraped through MOT with a horrendous beam pattern. My gut feeling is that the light has probably been cracked for a long time but it might depend on your local MOT station whether its a pass or fail

6 hours ago, Wino said:

ABS sensor arrived and looks genuine so that's a good start.

Looks like I've got the job of doing this lot, as a local backstreet garage just quoted her 600 all-in...

Thinking of going secondhand for the headlight; can anyone confirm at a glance that the one in my photo is halogen not gas discharge, I'm not really sure what the latter might look like.*

Oh, and @Ju1ian1001, if you wouldn't mind giving your professional opinion whether that light, and that CV boot are definite fails, pretty please?

 

*Crossed out bit not reqd now, erWin has told me they're standard twin halogen.

Sorry about the delay in replying, very busy and bad day at work, the ABS and ESP lights are a definate fail and will be classed as a major, although changing the wheel speed sensor should cure both lights as the ABS and ESP use the same sensor.

 

The C.V gaitor will also be a major as it's losing grease, if the the grease can escape then dirt will get in and wreck the joint, the joint should knock off be can be stubborn as hell, hub nut off and undo the 3 13mm bolts holding the ball joint to the wishbone, or if you don't fancy knocking the joint off the get a stretchy gaitor kit and a cone (we at work have an air expandable cone at work which makes doing the gaitors a doddle.

 

The crack ion the headlight should be a pass and advise, as the beam pattern should not be effected.

 

The lower arm bushes are a hard one for me as the tend to crack and split and still not have excessive movement, unlike the console bushes on the mk2 octy.

 

The exhaust could also fail due to major leaks.

 

 

Edited 11 March, 20197 yr by Ju1ian1001

Thanks man, much appreciated. Hope tomorrow is better for you.

For the airbag issue, check the yellow connector block underneath the passenger seat.  The pins in the connector are prone to failure and just moving the seat forward and backward can lead to a loss of contact.  This is obviously more likely to happen on 3 dr cars where the seat needs to be constantly moved for accessing the rear but I've had it happen to me on a 5 dr car when I over zealously moved the seat to vacuum underneath it. 

 

IIRC there was/is an official VW repair kit for the problem.  The indy specialist I use has seen this issue a lot and soldered all the connections.

 

I had an actual warning on the dash "Passenger Airbag Fault",  but I recall it also threw a high resistance warning when I checked using OBDEleven (sorry I can't remember the exact error code). 

 

HTH 

 

 

 

 

Ta very much.

17 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

You can get those CV boots that are split which you superglue together round the joint for ultimate lazyness

 

I tried this route a while back on our daughter's Citroen AX but despite being very careful about being clinically clean I could not get the seal to work.  How much was me and how much the technology I can't tell but after trying twice I moved on to the stretchy version.

 

Folks, thanks very much for all the help, it's great round here

Just 31 views and no replies on the VW forum.

 

Got most of the bits on order from various ebay sellers: a whole NS wishbone inc. pre-fitted balljoint, discs and pads, and (unfortunately before seeing Julian's reply) a 2nd-hand genuine headlight.

 

I reserved a stretchy CV boot from EWP yesterday but forgot to collect, and since then some of you have effectively persuaded me that the 'traditional' route is going to suit me best for the CV boot*. So I hope to undo the inner end of the driveshaft, pull the whole thing out and swap over with a 'proper' boot in the vice in the shed.

 

Need for a new thermostat has since been established to a reasonable degree of confidence, so that's added to the job list. Doubt I'm gonna have time to even look at the airbag connector in this pass.

 

Many thanks once again.

 

*Edit; still umming and ahhing about this one. Don't have a cone to fit a stretchy boot with, not sure that improvising is going to work. But then there's all the hassle of the inner bolts if I want to remove the shaft completely...

Edited 12 March, 20197 yr by Wino
indecision

I would say get the stretchy boot anyway, even if you can't improvise you can still use it the traditional way, they are still good enough quality to last many years and miles. especially on that old banger

 

On a side note, I really like the glass headlamps in the mk4, they don't go all yellow after a decade but I suppose the pay off is that they chip rather well.

 

 

 

Yep, this morning I talked myself out of full driveshaft removal due to time constraints, I'm gonna struggle to get it all done in 1 day as it is. I work at a deathly slow pace.

Stretchy boot plus cone bargain package ordered. New hub nut ordered. New stat ordered.  Need to borrow a 200Nm-capable torque wrench by the looks of it, after confirming that mine doesn't go that high.

 

Might have a browse of the Octy Guides section here to see what's available and relevant.

 

Edited 12 March, 20197 yr by Wino

Mission accomplished, but a what a tough weekend!

 

Stretchy boot worked like a charm, thanks for that tip.

Needed the hub puller tool that I bought a while back to get the driveshaft out of the bearing, and a lot of oomph on that even.

 

Old wishbone bush inner metalwork was not attached at all by any rubber to the outer, so that was definitely required.

 

New stat had the temp gauge back up to 90°  where it had previously been mid-way from there to no reading.

Coolant was grim, like barely diluted red artists clay...

Have some questions about resistance readings on dual temp sensor, but that will wait 'til tomorrow.

 

Headlight swap was nice and easy.

 

Brakes didn't seem to work a lot better with new discs and pads up front (inner pad on OSF was a sight, pics to follow) so set about looking for other explanations.  Massive crack in servo vac pipework found, gaffer-taped and proper function restored... Proper repair (and photo) to follow.

 

Old ABS sensor was a bugger to remove, sort of chiselled it out, but lights went off when I got down the road aways , so all good there.

 

Didn't particularly notice any noise from the exhaust, so that didn't even get a look in.

 

Found the air filter to be - at a guess - 6 or 7 years old. Hoovered out thoroughly for now as I didn't buy a spare (facepalm).

 

Screenwash lack and N/S brakelight non-function would've been two more MOT fails had I not checked.

 

Alternator belt looked to be 'on a wing and a prayer', more cracks than rubber.

 

Off for a bath now with the last of a bottle of...guess what?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd say you've gone above and beyond; hopefully the recipient of your efforts has some appreciation for the extent of your efforts.

 

On another note entirely, I have a set of new Polo disks (I'll check the part numbers later) that could fit your motor.  Yours for the cost of carriage of you would like them.

 

Thanks @StickyMicky, they are 256s on the front of mine, is it fronts you have? The lass is bunging me a few quid for my efforts, but considering how much of the weekend it took, my hourly rate would be pretty tragic.

 

Couple of photos to entertain:

 

 

And the brake servo hose horror:

 

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by Wino

Sensor resistance vs temperature 

Nice one @nige8021 that's for the ECU part - G62, right?  I've been looking, so far unsuccessfully, for the gauge temperature sensor equivalent.

 

Weirdly I got sort of opposite readings from the original sensor and the - obtained in a hurry 'cos my genuine one didn't arrive in time - Haas one from ECP.  These were both at approx. ambient temp yesterday

The pair of pins furthest from the connector flat is G62, I believe; the other pair is for the dash gauge.  Almost looks like the Haas one might be wired up wrong, depending on what the gauge resistances are meant to look like.

I ended up refitting the old one with the new one's o-ring as it leaked badly when just shoved back. Temp gauge seems to do what I'd expect, didn't get time to look at what the ECU one is up to.

 

 

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by Wino

I think that was for the gauge side of the sensor ?

 

Edit: No found the diagram on Elsa and it is for the ECU side, PIns 3 & 4 are for the ECU (Green & Blue/White wires)

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by nige8021

As far as I can see those graphs are for G62,  matches what's in the erWin doc I have for the injection system in this engine (found while you were posting), but there's nothing about the gauge sender part in that doc, or any others I seem to have.  It's rather confusing as the pins are labelled A, B, C, and D on their connection pic, with testing for G62 across C & D, but then they go and put big A and B above the graphs of readings...

Will maybe have a look in Haynes when I get home.  Or search on here, it's gotta be somewhere.

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by Wino

VDO speedo  70c = 512 ohms,  90c = 132~342 ohms,  110c 96 = ohms

Momo speedo  70c = 498 ohms, 90c = 136@334 ohms, 110c = 98 ohms 

 

The gauge indicates 90c for a temp between 75~107c

 

The gauge wires are Lilac & Brown/White 

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by nige8021

Oh, thanks man, that'll do I think, it's only that end of things that really matters I guess. 

When my genuine one turns up I can maybe work backwards from those numbers to see if the Haas one and the (new) genuine one seem to be in harmony or not, in a cup of tea or similar!

Can't help wondering if the Haas one is simply manufactured wrong, with thermistors swapped over between pin pairs. Might be why aftermarket sensors have such a bad rep.

Edited 18 March, 20197 yr by Wino

Reminds me I need to grab a repair connector for it, as the retaining latch was either already broken, or is now...

@Wino, you're about to be pm-ed ...

The car was awarded an MOT pass today after an initial failure for a rear shock, (fixed for a fair price on the premises, happily for me).

The alt belt and one of the rear tyres (tread low) were the only advisories.

 

The ABS code came back in the week since I changed the sensor, but luckily didn't trigger the cluster warning lights before the test. Probably need to find the dodgy bit of cable or a dirty connection to fix that for longer.

 

Funny story: my supposedly genuine temperature sensor turned up in a ziploc bag with an ECP part number on it, and no suitable markings on the device itself, so that got refunded.

Means I've currently got two Haas pattern parts to temperature test to investigate my theory about them having the NTC thermistors miswired. Thanks to the data from @nige8021 above I should be able to check that fairly robustly with a sample of two.

 

Cheers for all the help folks.

 

Photo of the NS wishbone bush, very free to move about excessively: