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Noise over bumps.


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On 17/02/2021 at 12:02, rum4mo said:

There is tool available to remove and replace these bushes, some quite cheap versions on ebay, I seem to remember buying one for when I finally need to replace these bushes, probably with the Golf R32/TT ones.

ive dropped off the control arms and r32/tt bushes at a garage this morning. hopefully they stay in 

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Good, maybe chat to your supplier of the previous ones in case they can organise a refund and maybe that would force the manufacturer to improve their design or at least dimensioning/tolerancing.

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First impressions are good. They are not as stiff as the powerflex which is good. The powerflex ones didn't feel good on anything but a smooth road. Cats eyes felt odd to go over. The TT/R32 bushes are a good balance between powerflex and the standard bushes.

 

Will try and get a refund on the powerflex ones

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Good news, so I'll stick to my original plan to fit TT/R32 solid rear mounting bushes when the time comes!

 

I did the same thing on my wife's last Polo a 2002 1.4 16V 75PS, well in that case got Ibiza Cupra solid rear mounting bushes though it had the older "consoles" set up.

Edited by rum4mo
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Will be getting an alignment soon. Is it worth doing the tie rods and ball joints before as I'm on the originals at 60000 miles. How long do they usually last

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1 hour ago, cm9876 said:

Will be getting an alignment soon. Is it worth doing the tie rods and ball joints before as I'm on the originals at 60000 miles. How long do they usually last


For the price of them, honestly you may as well do them, easily doable yourself.

 

For the tie rods mark on the threads where the originals were before you remove them so you can at least get them in the right ballpark for when you take it for the alignment.

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That's what I was thinking. Is it worth going for Skoda or aftermarket. Autodoc has Moog for 9 pound or lemfruder for 18. Euro car parts only have starline

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I own a 2015 Fabia Estate and I have the same issue. I will replace the bushings later as the noise does not bother me that much since it only happens when going over the bumps. I don't know if this is related to the donkey noise or not but in my case I noticed that it started squeaking when it got really cold and sometimes after driving for a bit the noise goes away. In any case will to the bushings on mine later when I service the car.

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On 03/03/2021 at 20:45, cm9876 said:

That's what I was thinking. Is it worth going for Skoda or aftermarket. Autodoc has Moog for 9 pound or lemfruder for 18. Euro car parts only have starline

 

For the price and how long they usually last anyway, i don't think it matters too much whichever you get. There's not a great deal you can do wrong with simple linkages.

 

More load bearing functional parts though i'd recommend Skoda, though the OEM wheel bearings are FAG parts so just grab those if you're going for that.

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Thought I'd post this on the "weird squeaks and noises page", I have a weird squeaking sound when I press the accelerator. It doesn't happen when I'm stood still, it only happens when I'm driving. I have a video linked, its a little hard to hear so the sound needs to be cranked up. You can hear the sound at around 4 seconds in and then at 9 seconds as well. Can anyone shed some light on it?

Cheers

 

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0GUuxvrAGAaU_hOxZYHiv9jDQ

 

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On 05/03/2021 at 14:01, FabiaGonzales said:

 

For the price and how long they usually last anyway, i don't think it matters too much whichever you get. There's not a great deal you can do wrong with simple linkages.

 

More load bearing functional parts though i'd recommend Skoda, though the OEM wheel bearings are FAG parts so just grab those if you're going for that.

Found some genuine vw ones reasonably priced on eBay. I think the tracking is definitely out. 

20210308_135533.jpg

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On 10/03/2021 at 00:55, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Perhaps! Surprised economy hasn't suffered with it being out that badly 

I have been getting arround 35 mpg. Car went in for alignment today. It said laser alignment on their website. They only did the toe. They didn't check anything else. In the service manual it says camber can be adjusted by loosening the subframe bolts and prying it. 

It seems better but not perfect. Steering wheel was aiming slightly left when going straight now it's slightly to the right but not as much.

Screenshot_20210311-183210_Drive.jpg

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20 hours ago, cm9876 said:

I have been getting arround 35 mpg. Car went in for alignment today. It said laser alignment on their website. They only did the toe. They didn't check anything else. In the service manual it says camber can be adjusted by loosening the subframe bolts and prying it. 

It seems better but not perfect. Steering wheel was aiming slightly left when going straight now it's slightly to the right but not as much.

Screenshot_20210311-183210_Drive.jpg

 

Toe camber and caster are all somewhat adjustable on the front.

 

When i first did the wishbones on mine all the adjustments were wayyy out, and like yours within about 150 miles i'd completely trashed the 3mm of remaining tread down to about 0.5mm! Good job i didn't get stopped by police...

After the alignment the whole lot felt so much more incredibly precise and responsive, was like a new car haha

 

The rear is pretty much non adjustable without the aid of shims, that's why being lowered can cause wear irregularities on the rear tyres (and why it's suggested to swap them back to fronts more often and in a cross pattern if the tyres are non directional).

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On 12/03/2021 at 14:53, FabiaGonzales said:

 

Toe camber and caster are all somewhat adjustable on the front.

 

When i first did the wishbones on mine all the adjustments were wayyy out, and like yours within about 150 miles i'd completely trashed the 3mm of remaining tread down to about 0.5mm! Good job i didn't get stopped by police...

After the alignment the whole lot felt so much more incredibly precise and responsive, was like a new car haha

 

The rear is pretty much non adjustable without the aid of shims, that's why being lowered can cause wear irregularities on the rear tyres (and why it's suggested to swap them back to fronts more often and in a cross pattern if the tyres are non directional).

Tried to do the ball joints this week. Didn't go well. The nut was seized and I didn't want to remove the drive shaft. Tried removing it with an angle grinder. I've ruined the knuckle. So I've got a new knuckle and hub on the way. Hopefully I can get the drive shaft out without putting it back on the floor as the ball joint is in pieces.

20210318_190521.jpg

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My mini impact got the driveshaft nut off easily. Now I'm just waiting for the new knuckle. I did the ball joint on the other side today it was super easy. Took about half an hour not sure why the other side was so bad.

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  • 11 months later...
On 13/04/2019 at 16:17, FabiaGonzales said:

If it's just a sharp squeak, like "punching a hamster" it's more likely the gearbox mount.

 

If it sounds like a donkey, like a two-tone squeak, then its probably the anti-roll-bar D bush.

 

I've currently got the donkey squeak @ 50k miles, checked it over and it is the anti-roll-bar D bush. I also had the gearbox mount go squeaky at about 35K miles last year, they greased it with silicon grease which did stop the noise, though if it is the mount, tell them to put the mount from the diesel on, as its a more suitable mount for the torque the engine provides.

 

If it is the D bush, you can buy the bush yourself from the dealer for £4.09 (or thereabouts) and do it yourself;

 

Slightly loosen wheel nuts

Lift the car up on a pair of axle stands, (to make it easier, put the axle stands underneath the ball joint on the wishbones, so the suspension is in its normal position.

Remove the wheels,

Remove both sides metal bracket and old bush,

Clean the anti-roll-bar and bushes with either brake cleaner or some iso-propyl alcohol

Do NOT grease!

Re-attach the bushes and clamp them down to the correct tightness

Put the wheels back on

Lower it back down

Tighten wheel nuts

 

It's 100x easier than trying to faff about doing stuff behind the wheel when the wheel is in the way.

 

If you can't get the axle stands under the ball-joint, then do everything the same, but only tighten them once the car is back on the ground.

Sorry to hijack an old topic but did your noise sound like my attached clip?

Voxbox_cut_1647284662977 (1).mp3

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/04/2019 at 22:38, Jay6887 said:

 

I have a 65 plate Fabia Estate 1.2 110 (45k miles on the clock), now over the last few couple of hundred miles, I've noticed a creaking/squeaking noise ONLY when going over bumps, everything else is fine, 

 

Exactly the same car/mileage/symptom here. Skoda dealer diagnosed badly split pendulum support bush. Replaced entire part for about £150, noise has definitely gone

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3 hours ago, terryt said:

 

Exactly the same car/mileage/symptom here. Skoda dealer diagnosed badly split pendulum support bush. Replaced entire part for about £150, noise has definitely gone

 

Interesting, I'd just put that down to bushes in general hardening with age and coated with salt from the winter driving, I'd also considered that it seems all VW Group cars that use the same sort of front top rubber mounting, do, with time, seem to need that top mounting "lubricated"!

 

I'll check the lower gearbox mounting at service time, seems like some people replace the 1.2TSI one for a TDI version to make it more durable, but maybe with increased noise/vibration, I've already got all the fixing bolts for that after ordering all possible bolts needed to re-align the carrier/subframe!

 

AT the moment that noise is temperature and rain dependant so not a big issue, and will probably become less so as we move into Summer, I've got a couple of chipped and rusting areas on the ARB so they will get attended to this Summer, and maybe even check the ARB mounting bushes and drop links.

 

Edit:- lower arm rear vertical mounting bushes still looking good though, only the centre joining sleeve of the exhaust to add to my list for this year, as it is getting badly corroded, or at least its clamps are - which is extremely normal for VW Group cars.

Edited by rum4mo
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