I've had my 2106 Vrs for about a month. On the test drive there was a vibration from the drivers door, was fixed prior to collection - diagnosed as fuel line clips (common apparently) I now have a new rattle. It sounds like its coming from the top of the door trim, no amount of prodding seems to stop it, so I guess its likely to be something internal causing it. Any ideas?

I may just book it in as the nearside fog light is full of condensation this week after a down pour and despite parking it in the sun all day, it keeps coming back

could be anything from something to do with the window mechanism to wiring for the electrical bits.

 

If you've only just got the car, plus if you've that issue with the fog light, I'd take it straight back the garage and get them to diagnose it. I'd just take it back and say it's had work done before and the issue still exists.

7 hours ago, Ratzer said:

I've had my 2106 Vrs for about a month. On the test drive there was a vibration from the drivers door, was fixed prior to collection - diagnosed as fuel line clips (common apparently) I now have a new rattle. It sounds like its coming from the top of the door trim, no amount of prodding seems to stop it, so I guess its likely to be something internal causing it. Any ideas?

I may just book it in as the nearside fog light is full of condensation this week after a down pour and despite parking it in the sun all day, it keeps coming back

I too have a drivers side door “buzzing”. It occurs whilst accelerating through low gears around 2000 revs. If I drove in 2nd gear around 20mph I can usually force the noise to be the loudest. I’ve tried pushing the door panel, handles, air vents etc it still persists. 

 

It could well be something to do with the electrical gubbins of the window motor as I felt driving with the window half down reduced the buzzing considerably. 

 

Does this noise sound familiar to you or could it be the fuel clips?

 

Cheers

It does sound window related, almost as though the glass pane is not seated correctly in the carrier.  As mentioned above, take it back to the seller requesting all faults be corrected.

19 minutes ago, Oldmansomerset said:

It does sound window related, almost as though the glass pane is not seated correctly in the carrier.  As mentioned above, take it back to the seller requesting all faults be corrected.

Hi not sure if that comment was in response to my post but my car is out of warranty so any repair costs would be down to me to pick up.

 

Is Realigning the glass pane etc a straightforward job eg an hours labour shall we say? Can any local garage do this?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

43 minutes ago, Upthepool said:

Hi not sure if that comment was in response to my post but my car is out of warranty so any repair costs would be down to me to pick up.

 

Is Realigning the glass pane etc a straightforward job eg an hours labour shall we say? Can any local garage do this?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

Really in response to the original post.  The work will certainly involve removing the door card panelling and associated furniture, checking the glass, the carrier and associated mechanism, correcting and reassembly.  The reason I said take it back was that the car has only been with Ratzer for a month and eligible for rectification, unless this was a private deal when it starts to get more complicated.

Going to local VAG garage £30 to remove door panel and inspect and go from there 

1 hour ago, Oldmansomerset said:

 

Really in response to the original post.  The work will certainly involve removing the door card panelling and associated furniture, checking the glass, the carrier and associated mechanism, correcting and reassembly.  The reason I said take it back was that the car has only been with Ratzer for a month and eligible for rectification, unless this was a private deal when it starts to get more complicated.

I think you’re right. It’s from a main dealer with 12 month warranty so it’s a no brainer to take it back to them. Just wondered if there was a quick fix

Drill a hole and fill with cavity wall insulation (this is not a serious solution).

I had a "vibration" from my passenger door - which would result in a rattle/vibration/noise that would annoy the hell out of me.

Went back to dealership twice and on each occasion "no fault found".

In the end I removed the door car myself and between the door card and the door itself I put in a large square of foam - I found a quite large area where no cables were running and the foam was sitting between the door and doorcard.

Two months later and I've not had a peep out of it since.

I had a really annoying rattle in my drivers side door with bassy music. I narrowed it down to the window switches. They sit fairly loosely in this little mount which in turn sits within their slot in the door card.

 

I padded the mounts with a little butyl vibration damping material and problem solved.

 

You can test if its the switches by putting some bassy music on and just touching the switches. If the noise goes away when you're touching them; then problem solved.

N1 Ian will try this 

I have just given up worrying about the symphony of rattles and buzzes TBH.

 

If you are going to own an Octavia and not go mildly insane obsessing over the various noises, you need to adapt and learn to tune it all out or turn the music up louder. 

 

Never going to get them all, you will always find new ones and the old ones will always find a way to come back stronger than ever!

 

*shrug*

I had one that I thought was coming from the door but was actually coming from the seat belt height adjust mechanism.

 

And a central dashboard rattle when the front wheels hit a ridge or pothole but put that down to the crashy ride.

 

Started at around 20k miles which wasn't good.

 

Lee

Edited 15 May, 20197 yr by logiclee

If you have a manual seat adjustment, try holding the handle on the side of the seat to see it it goes away, if so just put a bit of double sided tape between the handle and seat

 

 

On 16/05/2019 at 01:03, skippy41 said:

If you have a manual seat adjustment, try holding the handle on the side of the seat to see it it goes away, if so just put a bit of double sided tape between the handle and seat

 

 

Thanks all for your tips. 

 

Tried repositioning the manual seat adjustment and this seems to have some success. If I use my right hand to move the handle away from the plastic moulding the noise decreases. Not totally gone but a definite improvement.

 

Ill try the tape also

 

cheers 

I have an issue similar. My noises sound like they are coming from the upper part of both front door cars and it is at its worst with the noise generator set to "sport". That said, noise issues are hard to pin point so the issue could be anywhere. When it gets its first service I will get the dealer to have a look.

Rattle has been identified and fixed!

 

Fuel line under car was loose. Panel under vehicle removed to gain access

That’s good to hear. Mines still here. Although only on right hand bends, sounds like a cricket or baby bird cheep!!!!

22 hours ago, Ratzer said:

That’s good to hear. Mines still here. Although only on right hand bends, sounds like a cricket or baby bird cheep!!!!

Feel your pain mate. 

 =  no more door rattles 

On 14/05/2019 at 09:50, Upthepool said:

I too have a drivers side door “buzzing”. It occurs whilst accelerating through low gears around 2000 revs. If I drove in 2nd gear around 20mph I can usually force the noise to be the loudest. I’ve tried pushing the door panel, handles, air vents etc it still persists. 

 

It could well be something to do with the electrical gubbins of the window motor as I felt driving with the window half down reduced the buzzing considerably. 

 

Does this noise sound familiar to you or could it be the fuel clips?

 

Cheers

 

My buzz is coming from the area between driver's door and wheeling column, maybe somewhere above your knees. it is hard to track it down really. it started to buzzing when I started to accelerate from 3rd / 4th / 5th / 6th gear, from 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm, especially when I drive up hill then disappear at higher rpm. It is a kind of resonance transfering from the engine to one point inside the car .It's like something is not well screwed maybe. some wire is touching another wire. maybe some platic part.     Skoda dealers are deaf to this issue.     Could it be the flue clips also ? 

I was convinced the noise was coming from the drivers side door panel. Def worth checking fuel line under car 

Fixed my rattle!!  After working out it stopped when I adjusted the speed of the fan, I stripped the blower fan out, the spindle was bone dry and slightly corroded. Applied some grease and re-assembled, quiet as a mouse now

20 minutes ago, Ratzer said:

Fixed my rattle!!  After working out it stopped when I adjusted the speed of the fan, I stripped the blower fan out, the spindle was bone dry and slightly corroded. Applied some grease and re-assembled, quiet as a mouse now

Welcome to the quiet as a mouse club