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Bypass electric windows ?

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Hi All,

I am hoping someone can help me. I have a 2009 fabia estate with front electric windows.

I was advised that i would need a new comfort module as the windows were erratic when operating.

I went online to the control module, and it has no faults, but trust that the module needs replacing.

 

My current dilema is that the passenger window has gone down fully and will not go up.

does anyone know of a way to direct drive the motor to get it back up ?

 

this will then allow me some time to remove the module to verify part numbers and replace as i believe this is a lengthy task requiring removal of the dash.

VCDS has provided me with the following part number 6Q0959433A is this sufficient to order from ?

 

any help greatly appreciated as the window is currently wrapped in cling film to keep the elements out.

 

Dave

 

Has any new parts been tried ? besides being told you need a comfort module ?

 

Who said you need comfort module ?

 

The easist way to get the window up,  is to remove the door trim, take the motor off the regulator and its stiff, but you can wind it by hand whilst "assisting" it by lifting the glass , ie taking the weight.

 

PS....Try this first.........put your drivers window down about half way,  lock the car with the key and "hold" it in the lock position, both windows "should" close, Im suggesting that you drop the drivers to ensure the system "should" be closing the windows.

Edited by UrbanPanzer

I don't know if a broken wire in the door jamb would raise a fault code these days, because if the motor control wire had broken it would explain why it went down but not back up again. Certainly much cheaper than replacing modules.

  • Author

Hi, Thanks for the responses.

I am temporarily out of the woods in that i got the window up.

I removed the passenger door panel to access the motor. I disconnected the motor for a moment then reconnected and functionality was restored for a period so i got it up.

 

A bit of history may help. approx 1 year ago, i had an issue where the car was indicating the door was open (drivers door i think) as such, the interior light was on draining battery.

I removed the interior light to put the job off until a more suitable time.

I then had an intermittent issue with the drivers window. I put these issues down to a broken wire(s) in the loom connecting the door.

I brought it to an auto electrician i used previously (for a window fault which he fixed) but after his investigation, he said that on this occasion it was the comfort module and that it would need to be fitted and coded by a skoda main dealer. i suffered along as the window would eventually go up.

the fault spread to incorporate the passenger window the same as the drivers would go down, eventually would go up (after a bit of stuttering).

I tried all the cheats from this forum such as resetting the limits by holding the buttons up/down and the previously mentioned key in the drivers door reset, among others but to no avail.

 

the faults are now completely erratic in that IF the buttons work, (most times they do not) then you never know which button will do which action on which window ?!?

Today's incident happened by accidentally pressing the switch briefly and the window went down 3" then stopped.

i pull the button to raise, then window went DOWN a further 3" before i stopped.

I pulled the drivers window switch up as a test, passenger window went all the way down. nothing would bring it up.

 

i bought a diagnostic kit (VCDS) and have gone online to the module (no errors present)

i dug further into the module and found it listed elictrical windows and door controls as not installed.

I installed them using the software, and they are now listed as control module instead of not installed, but still no response.

 

Based on the part number i listed in my initial post, i today purchased a used module from ebay at €25, but i believe the dash has to be removed to gain access.

I am now taking this opportunity to replace the blower resister pack which failed recently forcing me to only have the fan on full speed.

 

Not sure how keen i am on skoda anymore as i also recently replaced another module at a cost of €850 (main dealer)

Window wipers stopped working in winter and i had no choice but to get it fixed.

Dealers mantra was "we have to do our own investigation" which they charged 6 hours for.

I know it was as simple as 1) connect diagnostic equipment and check wiper stalk input, 2) activate wiper output 3) check output voltage at module to rule out wiring to motor.

 

rant over, thanks again for your input, I'll let ye know how I get on.

 

 

All sound slike broken wires in the drivers door loom to me to..... Has that been checked ? can cause all sorts of issues.

 

Also the drivers door switch which is "a control item" often get soaked when rain comes in, these can corrode. Has a new drivers switch been tried ?

  • Author

Drivers loom has been checked previously, but will check again, But would the drivers loom stop the passenger switch from operating the passenger window ?

Havent changed the switch, but will take it apart this evening and examine.

 

Thanks

Edited by flynnd

2 hours ago, flynnd said:

But would the drivers loom stop the passenger switch from operating the passenger window ?

 

Yes, the drivers window is a master control module with the passenger being a slave. The signal comes out of the drivers window motor even when the passenger window is opened from the passenger side.

I was going to suggest testing the passenger loom, since the wiring goes into that door. If water has got in, then that could pose problems too. A broken wire may be the cause of your issues. You can use a multimeter to test whether there is continuity from the switch to the motor etc.

Always start with door wires, even if you only fixed them a while ago. They snap. If an electrician fixed it, he/she may only have repaired what was clearly broken and not what may be breaking! As mentioned, swaths fail and also as mentioned, usually through water ingress. Open the door after a bout of rain and watch water run out the bottom vent!

I also remember having a wiper issue, where the wipers control module had filthy, corroded terminals. The car place cleaned and rectified as best he could and suggested that if it failed again, a new one may be the better option. Not had an issue since, though. Wiper LINKS often wear and pop off from the drivers side and the link is only around £4 but takes a little fiddling to replace. You can also get a little clip to go over the link,(Ebay/aliexpress, etc)  to prevent it popping off again. It's meant to be a temporary fix but so far, mine has lasted longer then a replacement link, with less work to fit!

 

Worked for me ..

  • Author

Hi all,

 

Thanks for the advice, but heres where i stand now.

 

I verified the looms in each door from both regulator and window switch to the large multiplug on the frame. All cores are fine.

I disassembled the drivers side window switch (2 gang switch for both front doors) No evidence of corrosion, cleaned with alcohol and reinstalled, no response.

 

I have only noticed that when i program the module with any of the codes that includes electric windows, the switches go from "not installed" to "ctrl module does not respond"

I have also noticed that my electric mirrors do not move. again, these list as either not installed or module not responding as above

 

The module purchased from ebay will arrive in the coming days, but i may not get an opportunity to do that level of work for a few days.

Will keep ye posted.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So, heres a quick update for anyone interested.

I managed to remove the module in the car without the need for removal of the dash, i just did it from the footwell.

The module i removed was different from the one i ordered (different part number and extra unused ports)

I dont know why the VCDS software gave me that part number but i installed the new module and coded, no change.

I find the when this module (either of them) is disconnected then reconnected, the central locking activates so im beginning to wonder if im barking up the wrong tree.

My thoughts are that VCDS list electric windows on this module for cars that support window opening and closing via a long press of the buttons on the keyfob and that there is some other module at fault somewhere.

 

Does anyone know of a module that controls the electric windows and if so, where is it located ?

the module i was working on is mounted slightly vertically behind the console just to the left of the driver (RHS Drive car)

 

I have a guy willing to take a look at it on JUL 26th, but cant stick the heat in the car until then.

I am trying to source a manual winder regulator to replace the electric motor, but have not had any luck yet.

as my car is 2 electric in the front, and manual in the back i removed the rear door card to check if i could use that mechanism, but even if it suits, its looking like a big enough job. but while looking into this, i removed the drivers door card and disconnected the motor for another look at the contacts. upon reconnecting, i have the same ;limited control back again up/down both doors, but no 1 touch.

 

I am wondering if the drivers motor could be causing the issues and even making the control module seem faulty ?

anyone have any thoughts on this ?

 

my next test is to use the windows to the point of failure and when they have stopped working, i will disconnect the door loom from the frame then reapply to see if it will reset to this useable mode.

will keep you informed for anyone interested.

  • 1 year later...

Hi there - interested in your eventual fix?   I have the same model of Fabia mk2 it sounds like - electric windows front, manual windows rear, power mirrors.    They all stopped working a few months back (car passed its MOT with them not working which was nice :).         I had the classic broken wires in the door and this week replaced the harness with a new one from SKODA. all fitted perfectly.        Windows still don't work.   

Tried all the fixes suggested on these pages.    Using a key externally in the lock mechanism the windows do drop fully and raise  - the 'comfort fix' operates the windows (so the mechanism & power is good) but doesnt reset the system.   I pulled the fuses and reinserted to mimic disconnecting the battery but plan tomorrow is to do just that.

 I stripped and cleaned the drivers door switch - actually it looked pretty good but I cleaned the contacts anyway.         Great to read all your work above - interested if you eventually got the power windows working?

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