Hi All,

 

Wondering if anyone could advise...

 

Had the discs and pads changed 2 weeks ago (front and rear) local garage

 

The brakes were a litlte spongy so I htoght I'll 'bed them in'.. rightly or wrongly..

 

So on the way home from work 6 miles 80% dual carriageway, I pumped the brakes a good few times... On the last roundabout, I could smell burning, and noticed snoke coming from both rear wheels.

 

Got home, smoke had gone but you could feel the heat coming form the rear wheels, the rear wheels were very hot to touch and the discs were visible discoloured/blue.

 

Took it back to garage, rear wheels off, took calipers off, checked everything, pads out, cleaned up, went for test run, put car up on ramps everything was free and looked normal.

 

drove home from work yesterday no smoke but when parked up, you could faintly smell burning and the rear wheels were hot and the rear discs hot. (so much so you couldnt keep a finger on them for long)....Much hotter than the fronts. Fronts were slighlty warm but significantly cooler than rear.

 

The garage said they do get warm after a test run of a few miles said this is normal.

 

I'm not questioning the garage as they are trust worthy.... and I hope its not me being paranoid but is this normal?

 

I know the FRONT brakes do the donkey work split 70/30'ish (guessing)

 

When the car is parked up, handbrake released the car rolls back fine, no grinding or funny noises.

 

When breaking the hard the car brakes in a straight line.

 

Can anyone suggest anything?

 

Could it be crap/cheap pads/discs?

 

How warm/hot do rears get?

 

I may have dreamt it but I'm sure I read a post on here (I have looked) whereby somebody had a problem with changing the rear discs and pads and Im sure somebody said "there are two types of disc sizes for the rear of the yeti?"

 

Again i may have dreamt it.

 

Thanks for any help, suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 10 July, 20197 yr by Valleyboy44

Sounds to me like the rear brakes are binding... possibly the handbrake is not always releasing properly (even though it did when you tested it with the car parked up).

Normally the rear brakes on the Yeti do so little work that people often have a problem with severe disc corrosion because the discs are never swept very hard;  so there is clearly something amiss here and you need to get to the bottom of it.  I'd start by investigating the handbrake mechanism.

In reply to your query,  there are certainly different sizes of front discs depending on model..... I'm not sure about the rears.

Thank you for reply.

 

I did notice the handbrake was only 3 clicks max after the change.

 

Stupid question... Does the handbrake need to be adjusted after work is done on the rear?

 

Is this an easy job for me to check/adjust (I'm not a high proficient mechanic - mainly just serviced the car myself)

Oh another point, my car has 'hill assist' does this make a difference?

3 clicks on handbrake is fine.

The front ones are ventilated whereas the rears are solid.

I never ‘bed’ mine in and never have any sort of problem......... I barely use them so should be a candidate for glazing but somehow I seem to avoid it.

2 hours ago, Valleyboy44 said:

Hi All,

 

Wondering if anyone could advise...

 

Had the discs and pads changed 2 weeks ago (front and rear) local garage

 

The brakes were a litlte spongy so I htoght I'll 'bed them in'.. rightly or wrongly..

 

 

 

You thought wrongly.

 

You should never bed new brake pads/discs with hard braking. There are warnings on the installation instructions to that effect. Bedding in should be done gently, use light braking initially then progress to normal. It takes up to 100+ miles for brakes to bed in and achieve full efficiency. Initially they will feel soft and spongy, but that will improve as they bed in.

 

You could have cooked the pads and glazed them or the discs which reduces efficiency and can increase temperatures

 

Edited 10 July, 20197 yr by xman

2 hours ago, Valleyboy44 said:

 

I did notice the handbrake was only 3 clicks max after the change.

 

Stupid question... Does the handbrake need to be adjusted after work is done on the rear?

 

Is this an easy job for me to check/adjust (I'm not a high proficient mechanic - mainly just serviced the car myself)

Oh another point, my car has 'hill assist' does this make a difference?

 

If the handbrake is tighter than originally, ask if the garage has adjusted them. They shouldn't have touched them. They may not be fully releasing. There is an adjustment, not sure on the Yeti, but most Skoda's its accessible at the back of the handbrake centre console by pulling out the rear ashtray or cupholder.

thanks all for your replies, I found this post which I think is the identical problem to mine.

 

Handbrake binding

 

I'm not taking the car back the garage as I know all they'll do is change the rear calipers.

@Valleyboy44 - Well boyo, I think your rear brakes are sticking on like.

Smoke means that the brakes were binding hard, even with your foot off the pedal.  If you touched a wheel with your hand then, you would have been burned!  Hot but still just touchable after a run means either that you have been braking a lot over a short space of time (unusual), or that the brakes are still binding slightly. I have never had Yeti back brakes perceptibly warm after a few miles of normal non-hilly motoring so I think the garage is trying to fob you off.

 

One possibility is that fitting the new full thickness pads means the pistons are now further back in the calipers and working on an area of the bore which they haven't for a long time.  This increases the possibility of binding if there is any corrosion.  However, for both sides to suddenly suffer is most unusual. 

 

The other possibility is that the handbrake mechanism is not properly adjusted and is causing the pads to drag slightly. Changing rear pads shouldn't affect the handbrake setting however, so this suggests something is amiss. I take it your garage used a proper piston windback tool ? I don't know the spec, but 5 or 6 clicks would be more usual. If you jack up one rear wheel, with the handbrake off you should be able to turn the wheel fairly easily by hand, the pads are designed to touch the disc but with only a small drag.  To get an idea of the drag, try a front wheel for comparison, though it will feel a bit harder to turn as the transmission will add a bit more resistance.  Any more than this and it's back to the garage, after all it was (presumably) all OK before they started work on it.  If you don't trust the first garage (I wouldn't), find a VAG specialist who knows what they are doing. 

 

Of course, if you do nothing the pads will gradually wear down and drag less, but if it were me I would want to know the root cause of this unusual behaviour.

Many thanks for reply. 

 

I have no idea if the proper tools were used. 

 

Second time it was looked at it had a full strip down, have no reason to doubt them.

 

I'm going to have a little look as I feel it is the handbrake.

 

Cheers

 

 

On 10/07/2019 at 21:49, Valleyboy44 said:

Hi All,

 

Wondering if anyone could advise...

 

Had the discs and pads changed 2 weeks ago (front and rear) local garage

 

The brakes were a litlte spongy so I htoght I'll 'bed them in'.. rightly or wrongly..

 

So on the way home from work 6 miles 80% dual carriageway, I pumped the brakes a good few times... On the last roundabout, I could smell burning, and noticed snoke coming from both rear wheels.

 

Got home, smoke had gone but you could feel the heat coming form the rear wheels, the rear wheels were very hot to touch and the discs were visible discoloured/blue.

 

Took it back to garage, rear wheels off, took calipers off, checked everything, pads out, cleaned up, went for test run, put car up on ramps everything was free and looked normal.

 

drove home from work yesterday no smoke but when parked up, you could faintly smell burning and the rear wheels were hot and the rear discs hot. (so much so you couldnt keep a finger on them for long)....Much hotter than the fronts. Fronts were slighlty warm but significantly cooler than rear.

 

The garage said they do get warm after a test run of a few miles said this is normal.

 

I'm not questioning the garage as they are trust worthy.... and I hope its not me being paranoid but is this normal?

 

I know the FRONT brakes do the donkey work split 70/30'ish (guessing)

 

When the car is parked up, handbrake released the car rolls back fine, no grinding or funny noises.

 

When breaking the hard the car brakes in a straight line.

 

Can anyone suggest anything?

 

Could it be crap/cheap pads/discs?

 

How warm/hot do rears get?

 

I may have dreamt it but I'm sure I read a post on here (I have looked) whereby somebody had a problem with changing the rear discs and pads and Im sure somebody said "there are two types of disc sizes for the rear of the yeti?"

 

Again i may have dreamt it.

 

Thanks for any help, suggestions?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi.

Recently changed my own on 2014 170bhp.

The issue is the pads sticking. I replaced the seals on each side and gave the calipers a really good sanding. When you retract the piston the dirt gets caught around the seal so u are better off simply replacing the seals . In your case the really hot dust will pit your alloys.

Mechanic by trade myself so not guessing.

Hopefully you will get it sorted.

Also. Is handbrake ok?? Not too tight. About 4 or more clicks for fully on.

Hi Dom

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Would this be what you bought...

Seals

 

The handbrake currently is about 2/3 clicks for fully on.

 

Again garage said they cleaned down everything for a second time, but worth a look.

 

Again I have basic knowledge, servicing the normal bits is my limit.

 

Cheers again

Just the actual outer piston seal. Ie the large 1. Not expensive from dealer and dont buy aftermarket. 2/3 clicks is too little. Looks like thats where the problem is.

Personally I would not touch it. Keep bringing it back until its sorted

Update..

 

Went on the longest journey after having brakes done yesterday..

 

Smoked again, both pads 'white'

 

Called RAC, said known fault on vag cars, need callipers replacing as they drag and piston's never go back properly...

 

Just got quote off local garage...

 

£343 all in.

for 2 x rear calipers, 2 x sets pads, bleed, + calipers will have to be 'electronically' wound back

 

Is that a good price?

 

Cheers all

The Local Garage in your OP is due you a refund of some money to you since they were hopeless.

 

The known issue is that people who are being trusted can not do the job correctly that paying customers put cars in to have done and they make all sorts of stuff up and turn out unsafe cars.

Cheers

 

Im assuming 'electronically' wound back is the vcds black magic?

27 minutes ago, Valleyboy44 said:

Im assuming 'electronically' wound back is the vcds black magic?

 

Only if you have a electronic handbrake which I don't think any Yeti did?

 

If you have a manual handbrake, there is nothing electronic in the rear calipers

Cheers lol

 

Wish I had my old escort

Just an update, both rear calipers replaced... According to the garage pistons on both were rusted and not fully rewinding.

13 minutes ago, Valleyboy44 said:

Just an update, both rear calipers replaced... According to the garage pistons on both were rusted and not fully rewinding.

Sad because they should have noticed that when they did the pad change.

Hey ho, I can nolonger fry the eggs and bacon now on the disc and wheel😜

3 minutes ago, Valleyboy44 said:

Hey ho, I can nolonger fry the eggs and bacon now on the disc and wheel😜

Was that after you rolled it into a ditch in order to get the eggs to stay on the discs?