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7 Speed - DSG Gearbox - Repair/Fix


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2011 FABIA VRS 57,000 miles I unfortunately went for a remap using a Pendle performance agent, all went well for a whole 18 miles  and then I had the same problem as Darren with the gears jumping dangerously, lost reverse as well. They took the remap back to original spec but that didn't change anything. They took it to a local autospecialist who straight away new the fault, broken gear selector. New gear selector and clutch and 2nd hand speed sensor (they had lying around)  was as £1800. The Pendle agents put the remap back on and  and all seems good. The auto specialists said they see a large number of these gearboxes coming through their garage, common fault.

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On 13/06/2020 at 13:59, gushingspunker said:

2011 FABIA VRS 57,000 miles I unfortunately went for a remap using a Pendle performance agent, all went well for a whole 18 miles  and then I had the same problem as Darren with the gears jumping dangerously, lost reverse as well. They took the remap back to original spec but that didn't change anything. They took it to a local autospecialist who straight away new the fault, broken gear selector. New gear selector and clutch and 2nd hand speed sensor (they had lying around)  was as £1800. The Pendle agents put the remap back on and  and all seems good. The auto specialists said they see a large number of these gearboxes coming through their garage, common fault

 


What figures did they remap it too?
 

Usually when the selector fails and misaligns it wrecks the gear position sensor and that knocks out reverse completley like yours, Did the specialist mention the modified selector fork available? This was brought out in light of many boxes having the same problem as yours albeit the casing needs modified too.

 

Its a piece of mind that you’ve had the clutch done however did they mention that it was needing replaced as part of the repair? All in all for the parts required your talking about £600 quid there and the rest labour.

 

Baring in mind if you knew it wa going to ge remapped after the clutch was done you could have asked them so set the tolerance lower on the clutch in mind of the remap as this will stop clutch slip.

Hope it’s all running well buddy.

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hi there did you sort it out i had the similar problem with mine just got to the bottom of it it was 2 faults i replaced the clutch myself and still had the problem it was the mechateonic unit would work for a week or so if i did quick gear changed went into limp mode or stuck in gear orders a new actuator housing as these are prone to cracking and on replacing the unit came across poss the part or all the problem the piston for 1 of the forks the plastic clip on the end that holds assembly in possition was cracked and pieces inside the chamber blovking the hydraulic hole car has been back together a few days and runs like a dream 

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22 minutes ago, Gazza72 said:

hi there did you sort it out i had the similar problem with mine just got to the bottom of it it was 2 faults i replaced the clutch myself and still had the problem it was the mechateonic unit would work for a week or so if i did quick gear changed went into limp mode or stuck in gear orders a new actuator housing as these are prone to cracking and on replacing the unit came across poss the part or all the problem the piston for 1 of the forks the plastic clip on the end that holds assembly in possition was cracked and pieces inside the chamber blovking the hydraulic hole car has been back together a few days and runs like a dream 


Excellent mate!


I’ll be doing mine myself If I can get a hold of the tools(To adjust the clutch tolerance), Are you a mechanic by trade? 
 

I’ve had many an argument on how easy it actually is to change a clutch pack when the box is out, A good Vag mechanic should change the clutch in less than 30-45 mins if they have experience. 

 

Again when I first joined here I seen people paying 3 grand upwards for mech units and clutches to be fitted, Just another reason for staying away from a dealership as the job can be done for well less than a grand these days when a clutch pack can be purchased or £370 and generally you can repair the mech unit for less than under £100.

 

Edited by Mickmartin
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hi mate i was but do it from home now can tackle most jobs this isnt for the faint hearted its a ball ached but worth it in the end if you clutch pack is slipping it could just be the mechatronic unit do that first unless you are doing both together my advise check everything i had rhe gearbox out 3 times tolerance on the clutch plates is less than 1mm on each i used a digital vernier with a metal bar across the gear box removed clutch pack with bearing puller and a piece of metal flat bar cross the gear to relocate you will need the tool for setting up the packs use 1 way for 2 and turn it over for the other check youtube loads on there what isnt clear bit will jelp if you take the mechatronic out make sure you ise the software or place the key in the car and put and leave in neutral the disconnect the battey drain oil out of gearbox and drain oil from mechatronic unit before you open it as its under pressure refill before reinstalling as the filler hole is your drain hole 1 liter special fluid not gearbox oil.you will need software i used odis another tip 2 pieces of screw thread about 5" long put them in you top screw holes to relocate mechatronic unit the take back out and make sure the forks are located properly with loads of grease on the pistons on the mechatronic unit if the grease has gone in the groves then you can reassemble if you get stuck message me check the piston on the mechatronic unit for broken clips i used the circlips found on turbo actuator as i had them already 

20200619_111757.jpg

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On 14/06/2020 at 20:04, Mickmartin said:


What figures did they remap it too?
 

Usually when the selector fails and misaligns it wrecks the gear position sensor and that knocks out reverse completley like yours, Did the specialist mention the modified selector fork available? This was brought out in light of many boxes having the same problem as yours albeit the casing needs modified too.

 

Its a piece of mind that you’ve had the clutch done however did they mention that it was needing replaced as part of the repair? All in all for the parts required your talking about £600 quid there and the rest labour.

 

Baring in mind if you knew it wa going to ge remapped after the clutch was done you could have asked them so set the tolerance lower on the clutch in mind of the remap as this will stop clutch slip.

Hope it’s all running well buddy.

@Mickmartin

 

Afternoon

I'm not automotive mechanically minded.

 

It was remapped to 193bhp and to 302torque. The original BHP on the roller was down to 164bhp, so down on new.

 

Unfortunately/fortunately I left the car to be dealt with with the guys who did the remap, as it needed transporting to the auto garage when they could fit it in. The receipt just had gear selector replaced and clutch replacement along with a speed sensor thrown in. The auto garage is well respected locally (dunning's Weymouth) so I was happy to do what they said.

 

I have been on call since getting the car back which means I haven't had a good run in it yet, as I have to be within 30 minutes of work, but have clocked 200miles so far and all seems good. So it appears the main problem was the plastic gear selectors.

 

@Gazza72 car seems as good as new. No way I could fault find these issues myself though. 

 

Cheers guys for the feed back make these threads very helpful even for a layman.

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1 hour ago, Gazza72 said:

hi mate i was but do it from home now can tackle most jobs this isnt for the faint hearted its a ball ached but worth it in the end if you clutch pack is slipping it could just be the mechatronic unit do that first unless you are doing both together my advise check everything i had rhe gearbox out 3 times tolerance on the clutch plates is less than 1mm on each i used a digital vernier with a metal bar across the gear box removed clutch pack with bearing puller and a piece of metal flat bar cross the gear to relocate you will need the tool for setting up the packs use 1 way for 2 and turn it over for the other check youtube loads on there what isnt clear bit will jelp if you take the mechatronic out make sure you ise the software or place the key in the car and put and leave in neutral the disconnect the battey drain oil out of gearbox and drain oil from mechatronic unit before you open it as its under pressure refill before reinstalling as the filler hole is your drain hole 1 liter special fluid not gearbox oil.you will need software i used odis another tip 2 pieces of screw thread about 5" long put them in you top screw holes to relocate mechatronic unit the take back out and make sure the forks are located properly with loads of grease on the pistons on the mechatronic unit if the grease has gone in the groves then you can reassemble if you get stuck message me check the piston on the mechatronic unit for broken clips i used the circlips found on turbo actuator as i had them already 

20200619_111757.jpg

 

Excellent mate, Thanks for that that's some good info.

 

I think I've watched every YouTube video  going on the DQ200 and mech unit going, I'm 100% tackling it myself. What did you end up setting the clutch tolerance at as I know there's a threshold that must be stuck too, Obviously the more power you run you set the tolerance lower to avoid clutch slip and did you install the modified selector fork available?

 

Thanks

Michael

 

 

 

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i got the clutch pack from gsf on offer £260 and the mechatronic repair kit was 110 of ebay delivered next day keep an eye on gsf for the offers also think you can join by email to gsf and you will get a discount code so irs cost 470 plus the special bits clutch lever tool and the 2 way alignment tool also i memtioned in last post about plastic clup on piston to fork ment piston to clutch release lever i call it the fork sorry but if you get stuck send me message 

 

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2 minutes ago, Gazza72 said:

i got the clutch pack from gsf on offer £260 and the mechatronic repair kit was 110 of ebay delivered next day keep an eye on gsf for the offers also think you can join by email to gsf and you will get a discount code so irs cost 470 plus the special bits clutch lever tool and the 2 way alignment tool also i memtioned in last post about plastic clup on piston to fork ment piston to clutch release lever i call it the fork sorry but if you get stuck send me message 

 

 

Might be giving you a message for a loan of the tools LOL!

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ira not worth spending daft money as your hopefully only going to do it once about £70 for all you need plust the clutch kit i daved loads on offer from gsf online should of been over 400 got it 260 keep a look out make sure you check everything before you start as theews no going back you will need the software no way round it you need vcds or odis i used odis got the software of ebay with adapter cant say on here how much or site buts there have a look and put it on a laptop if you was local would of helped you our easy when you work it out just takes a bit of scratching your head first lol

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Just now, Gazza72 said:

a digital vernier with a metal flat bar across the gearbox found it on youtube measueed at 3 points i ised a digital so i could get it accurate 

 

absolute legend! n terms of using Odis or VCDS.....Is it just to clear the fault codes or is there ay programming involved?

 

I priced up clutch packs at £380 before however will keep an eye out on GSF, To think in the 3 years I've owned mine I've seen people pay £3500 for a clutch and new mechatronic unit from the dealers or a bit less from an independent garage. To think you can do it yourself for under £600 is absurd, Id rather give it a go before paying someone else £3k.

 

Again many thanks, I watched & watched YouTube convincing myself I could drop the box out and give this a go, That's me made up my mind, first sign of clutch slip and I'm stripping that box out.

 

 

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the gearbox has to be reset 

as it learns to adapt the clutch basically you have yo tell it you have put a new clutch in and relearn if you cannot drive it check it goes in each 1 and reverse and go for a drive the car will learn as you drive if you are confident enough you will be able to do it 2 sets of hands is a big help doi going this good luck 

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13 minutes ago, Gazza72 said:

the gearbox has to be reset 

as it learns to adapt the clutch basically you have yo tell it you have put a new clutch in and relearn if you cannot drive it check it goes in each 1 and reverse and go for a drive the car will learn as you drive if you are confident enough you will be able to do it 2 sets of hands is a big help doi going this good luck 

 

Ahhh get you now!

 

 

Yeah mate I'm not scared to get my hands dirty if it comes to it.

 

.CF72CF3C-9F3B-4D78-A576-1B0EDA3751CD.thumb.jpeg.4005597d0aa57843da2be57252f01d33.jpeg

Edited by Mickmartin
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its a lot heavier than a normal gearbox watch for the drop think its about 100 kg im here if you get stuck allow a few days just incase you have problems and dont forget when you take the starter motor off there is a bolt behind in the hole make a not of where the small bolt goes back as 1 of the18mm bolts is shorter   it you tips.

put a rope round driver side drive shaft and lift it up out of the way makes your life a lot easier when putting the gearbox back in depending on what car you have you might be better off dropping the sub frame rest it on a jack and pull it back i held mine in place with a chain i had with the catches but a bolt through will do the same 3rd time i did it i had it out clutch out checked it put it back set it up and gearbox back in 2 hours 1 pair of hands 18mm 5/8or 16mm 10mm 13mm and if you drop the subframe you will need alignment pins ti put back properly of steering is **** and tracking will need doing 

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sent you a pic i just done to give an idea of setting the clutch up

i didnt use the level i used a piece of metal flat bar the same way and put it across the gearbox put the end of the vernier to the clutch plate and put to zero then it accurate if there is no play ie plates are tight redo it as its incorrect it has to have a small amount of movement of it will not work and cause damage 1 clutch i got to 0.2mm and the other was 0.7mm and works a treat 

20200619_172339.jpg

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Brilliant, Quite a few people will  be interested in your posts mate, The DSG has always been a horror for people whether it’s the Box, clutch or mech that goes. Then to be told the tools to remove the clutch cost nearly a grand, I even began to panic.

 

Have you worked on any DSG boxes before? You seem to be quite knowledgable or have you ended up on a YouTube/Google journey like I did and decide to have a go yourself.

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done loads of clutches but was horred at the thought of the dsg watch loads of videos on yourtube taken noted of them all like the vernier bearing puller first time i have done the dsg when i did it the 3rd time i realised just how easy it was when you know what your doing another bit of info for you if you take the mechatronic unit out of the gearbox it has to be in a certain position neutral on the gear lever or you cant move the levers in the gearbox the 4 of them have to be in the middle and its a must and the pistons on the mechatronic unit all have to be set to 25mm on each or your gears wont work im here if you need me 

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