Come to think of it my MFD was really out on this vehicle, over-reading by 13%, I corrected it via VCDS but maybe the engine will now be returning what the MFD used to say that it did.

 

I am going to ignore what it says for the time being, tank is half full not nearly full as I thought, will calculate the consumption on fill up (brimmed) and however much it has changed, +ve or -ve I would expect the next calculation after using a full tank to be twice the difference, at that time I will recalibrate the MFD if required, I dont do a lot of miles so this will take a long time but my journey profiles will be quite constant.

 

If omitting to do cam timing to zero torsion value results in a 13% drop in fuel economy or if a belt can stretch that much over time then thats a lot of wasted fuel. Of course I may find that Skoda just set the ECU calcs 13% optimistic.

9 hours ago, Taximan1978 said:

So just finished work and the conclusion is torsion set at 0.0 performance is amazing but MPG is not good at all the max a could manage is 37MPG around the doors so a don't no what to do now try adjusting it a little more or what any ideas please.

J.R.

Should a adjust it back to where it was at -3.9 better MPG and bad performance or what do u think cheers 

A never did the rev thing because a didn't no about it.

 

Above all I would do the revving up check, if you dont see a 0.5 -ve change you have certainly taken it outside of limits and you should return it to the previous setting (I hope you marked the pulley alignment before adjustments) and start again but with tiny barely perceptible movements checking them each time on VCDS, you can leave the intake pipe off while doing this.

 

In my case the difference between -3.9 and a true zero was about 0.75mm measured at the boss behind the centre retaining bolt, it really is a tiny amount because the figure is crankshaft degrees, movements of the cam pulley are doubled.

Some general questions.

 

Why is it called torsion value? Is it as a measurement of belt stretch?

 

Why does VCDS express the units as kw? Is it really crankshaft degrees?

 

Does a -ve value actually mean that the cam timing is advanced from what it should be as it appears conclusively to be to me? If so is there a rationale for this or is it just another case of the programmers getting something backwards? It would be really helpfull if the units and their +ve or -ve values actually meant something we could relate to.

 

What is the purpose of the cut out with the sawteeth? It looks like some sort of vernier reading but I cant see anything behind it, if it is that then how is it intended to be used?

 

How much would belt stretch over its service life be expected to change the torsion value?

 

My adjustment bolts are nearly at the end of their slots, more than one tooth out on the cambelt I reckon, when I come to change it if I use a proper timing tool locking pins set should I loosen the 3 bolts, fit and tension the belt to get the pulley clamp bolts centralised, is that the intended procedure?

14 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=336279

 

First post, just food for thought if your playing around with torsion values

Yes I had seen that, soon I will have 2 sets of verified fuel consumption figures relative to VCDS readings of - 3.9 and zero, based on them I will further adjustments to find the sweet spot if the difference is worth chasing.

Thanks very much for all advice and help on this situation.

 

A will do the rev and see what a get so just done some calculations and this is what a have come up with weather it's right or wrong lol.

 

A put £20 of fuel in am getting 150 miles so me mfd is reading 35 / 37 MPG but when a did the calculations am actually getting 44.3 MPG.

So whats right and whats wrong.

Don't no how to calibrate the MFD .

 

But if I am getting 44.3 around town well am leaving it alone am happy with that anymore advice J.R. 

 

A do appreciate all your advice cheers Graeme .

Putting £20 in is not going to give you any idea of fuel economy, you need to be calculating brim to brim over at least a few tanks or more

 

I'm willing to bet if the MFD is saying 35/37 you are doing that or less, they tend to be optimistic more often than not.

 

A did the rev test and it did jump to -0.5 for a split second so what does that mean any suggestions please.

 

Can someone enlighten me please a don't understand whats the difference between just under half a tank of fuel and a full tank of fuel how do you get a different MPG.

A no it sounds daft.

 

Thanks in advance.

1 hour ago, Taximan1978 said:

A did the rev test and it did jump to -0.5 for a split second so what does that mean any suggestions please.

 

Can someone enlighten me please a don't understand whats the difference between just under half a tank of fuel and a full tank of fuel how do you get a different MPG.

A no it sounds daft.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

You do it on a full tank so have have a known datum which is full. so when you fill it up to the top again you know that's how much fuel you have used since you last filled up.

 

If you put £20 into a tank at random how do you know when you have used up the £20 you put in so you can work out how many miles you have done?

2 hours ago, Taximan1978 said:

A did the rev test and it did jump to -0.5 for a split second so what does that mean any suggestions please.

 

I would say that you have it set spot on, well done!

 

Now you should do what I will be doing, compare the car to how it was before with the - 3.9 reading, does it drive better, is the fuel economy improved? - You have to do that on a brim to brim basis and I hope you have previous figures for that, otherwise it is down to how mant miles on the odometer for each fill up.

 

Iif its worse then you can start working back towards the previous figure, if its better you might want to try it with a little more + ve value.

 

I think i might have answered one of my previous questions, I have just ordered a timing locking tool set and one of them looks like it would fit inside those sawteeth that I spoke of, hard to know till I have them in my hand.

1 hour ago, SuperbTWM said:

If you put £20 into a tank at random how do you know when you have used up the £20 you put in so you can work out how many miles you have done?

 

If you think back to when you were young and impoverished and just put a fiver of fuel in at a time, drove till it was about to run out and did the same again.....................

 

Add inflation and you get to £20 of diesel.

 

Back then you knew exactly how many miles you had done on your fiver 😀

Thanks

a no it sounds foolish but a only put £20 in reset the trip meter on every fill a do and it's quite a lot over a week so a no on average how many miles am getting between each fill.

 

The performance is much better but fuel economy according to the MFD is still reading 35/37  maybe a need to try a recalibration of the MFD but don't no how to do it.

 

20 hours ago, J.R. said:

I think i might have answered one of my previous questions, I have just ordered a timing locking tool set and one of them looks like it would fit inside those sawteeth that I spoke of, hard to know till I have them in my hand.

 

You lock the crank pulley with the locking tool and pin the timing belt pulley but you loosen the three nuts for the camshaft while you change the belt. So technically you are only really timing the crank to the camshaft pulley, the camshaft itself is floating until you tighten the three bolts back up again.

 

I don't think there are any other tools for the camshaft pulley apart from the locking pin

Edited 12 August, 20196 yr by SuperbTWM

Thats what I thought, I think the kit contains all the tools for the various variants, this is it:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Diesel-Engine-Timing-Locking-Kit-1-2-1-4-1-9-2-0-Tool-Set-For-AUDI-TDi-PD/323737282360?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

I had surmised that the crank was locked at TDC, the camshaft (single in my case) would be locked in its correct position and the outer pulley free to move while the belt tensioner was tightened to take out any variations, tolerances, block height, head skim etc before the 3 bolts were tightened, you are saying the opposite but I have yet to read the manual!

 

If the sawtooth things in the kit are for locking the outer pulley then you must be right, I just cant at this time get my head around why it would be done in this way.

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Thats what I thought, I think the kit contains all the tools for the various variants, this is it:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Diesel-Engine-Timing-Locking-Kit-1-2-1-4-1-9-2-0-Tool-Set-For-AUDI-TDi-PD/323737282360?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

I had surmised that the crank was locked at TDC, the camshaft (single in my case) would be locked in its correct position and the outer pulley free to move while the belt tensioner was tightened to take out any variations, tolerances, block height, head skim etc before the 3 bolts were tightened, you are saying the opposite but I have yet to read the manual!

 

If the sawtooth things in the kit are for locking the outer pulley then you must be right, I just cant at this time get my head around why it would be done in this way.

 

You have me questioning myself now, I think I have got it backwards now as you pin the inner part of the pulley which locks the camshaft and leaves the toothed pulley free. Its been a while since I've done one and TBH I just followed the procedure without really thinking about it.

29 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

If the sawtooth things in the kit are for locking the outer pulley then you must be right, I just cant at this time get my head around why it would be done in this way.

 

Which sawtooth things are you referring too?

The 2 large things at either side of the photo and with the dimensions at the bottom, I have got it wrong though as the curvature goes the wrong way, they must be to engage on the pulley teeth.

 

Still none the wiser what the cut out on the cam pulley with the row of pointers (saw teeth) are for.

20 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The 2 large things at either side of the photo and with the dimensions at the bottom, I have got it wrong though as the curvature goes the wrong way, they must be to engage on the pulley teeth.

 

 

Sorry to be a pest but does anyone know how to calibrate the MFD please.

 

Also where did you get that locking tool from because the one that a have does not sit on the teeth as perfect as that one in the picture does cheers.

9 hours ago, Taximan1978 said:

Sorry to be a pest but does anyone know how to calibrate the MFD please.

 

It's an adaption channel you can change using VCDS or similar: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Instrument_Cluster#Channe_003:_Consumption_Correction

11 hours ago, J.R. said:

The 2 large things at either side of the photo and with the dimensions at the bottom, I have got it wrong though as the curvature goes the wrong way, they must be to engage on the pulley teeth.

 

Still none the wiser what the cut out on the cam pulley with the row of pointers (saw teeth) are for.

 

They are crank locking tools. 

Which adaption is it in thanks.

11 minutes ago, Taximan1978 said:

Which adaption is it in thanks.

 

The link tells you. 

Thanks TWM!

 

Would you by any chance have a photo of the cam locking tool in position?

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Thanks TWM!

 

Would you by any chance have a photo of the cam locking tool in position?

 

Thanks!

 

Lower green arrow is over black domed head camshaft alignment locking pin I assume.

 

Green arrow at left is direction of engine rotation, in my head I thought mine was the other way but it does make sense with the zero and minus markings in yellow and red.

 

So what is the purpose of the hole and the teeth at the top marked by the green arrow?

 

On my car you cant get your head low enough to see the hole without a camera.