Skip to content

Engine swap MK1 BMD - Mk2 CBZ

Featured Replies

2 minutes ago, mikey362 said:

Sounds pretty straight forwards certainly something to fall back on 👍

 

 

Dont think you will be able to, pretty sure the gearbox doesn’t have anywhere for the drive. 

  • Replies 97
  • Views 11.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most Popular Posts

  • Biggest stumbling block I can see is on the MK2 they did away with the bulkhead connection point. So the vehicle wiring harness is one piece from the front fog light all the way back to the rear clust

  • If you're buying a written off 1.2 TSI then all you need is the space and time to make the swap work, gut the mark 1 then start moving everything over from the mark 2 until it's all done. Think of it

  • I'd be tempted personally to transplant the entire MK2 harness into the MK1. Port across the ABS system, convenience, diagnostics etc.

Posted Images

  • Author

The plot thickens!

  • Author

I think I have a solution to the tach now.

 

been through some very long files of CAN bus messages from older and newer VW vehicles and they all seem to run the same code for the Tach courtesy of a friend who is doing a project with Arduino and has been playing with different manufacturers vehicle clusters.

 

my understanding on the CAN system is that if the message doesn’t apply the module then the message is ignored. so me taping into the CBZ CAN system for the drive pins on the MK1 cluster it should pick up the messages that are the same as the BMD ECU and give me a rpm reading. Hopefully lol

 

short of that I’ll have to wire in a discreet  aftermarket Tach.

 

Next thing is to actually get the rest of the car right (body work, brakes upgraded etc) and get the online manuals and a Mk2 wiring loom and start making alterations so it should be almost plug and play 

  • Author

Hi again guys, 

 

slightly different question this time. I’ve been looking at what you have to do with regards to declaring an engine swap. Which the DVLA side is fine. 

 

I was more wondering how you go about an mot before the log book has been changed. As I believe and if I’m wrong please correct me if I am wrong. a qualified mechanic needs to check the vehicle over for most insurance companies to insure the vehicle?

 

also who do you guys use for engine swaps, the last time I had a modified car I was with Adrian flux.

I had the vehicle inspected by a specialist and they verified the engine number and capacity. Sent a letter along with the V5 back to the DVLA with the new engine number and capacity on it, got my V5 back with the new details on it in about four weeks. 

 

You wont be able to MOT, tax or insure the car correctly before this is done. 

  • Author

Okay that makes. When you say a specialist what do you mean lol 

You could use a dealer, a registered garage, independent. 

  • Author

Ow right I thought you meant more specific than that haha 

6 minutes ago, mikey362 said:

Ow right I thought you meant more specific than that haha 

 

🤦🏻‍♂️

  • Author

Sooooo as I’ll be spending the winter (which seems to be fast approaching) figuring out the wiring and getting parts together. I’m looking at upgrading the front brakes to MK1 vrs brakes. Which if memory serves are 288mm which will be a dramatic difference and glad I went for bigger alloys during the summer.

 

Im hoping you guys can advise me on a few bits?

1. As my hub carriers are from the 1.2 they have the brake caliper carriers on them. I will need to swap these for carriers with no carriers on them 6q0407255s?

 

2. Will I encounter any issues with compatibility between the hubs and the drive shafts of the 1.2?

 

3. Stupid question but recommendations for a seal and piston kit to refurb them and decent discs and pads? 

 

Thanks again

1. 288 brakes go under 15" alloys just fine, you'll need the entire front hub assembly, not just the calipers and carriers.

 

2. Possibly.

 

3. Hardly relevant at this stage, you'll be better off just buying a pair of struts from the scrappy complete with brakes, then seeing if the driveshafts fit.

  • Author

Sorry that initial post may have been confusing re-reading it. I did mean the entire carrier which houses the hub as the 1.2 has caliper carriers attached lol. Think I’ve just got a set of callipers and carriers from a friend of a friend pretty cheap.

 

im upgrading the brakes regardless as if all goes to plan id like to be prepared. I was just hoping I wasn’t the first to have done this and was looking for any previous experience. All the hubs and bearings aftermarket wise are coming up as fitting every variant of MK1 which seems odd but as you can all tell I’m not that experienced with Skoda yet so wouldn’t know about any difference in the amount of splines on a vrs driveshaft and a 1.2 driveshaft.

 

I will take your advice and find a pair from a scrappies though probs the best way. Also means I can have spares in the future. My misses will love me 😆

  • Author

Hi guys, so I’ve been going over the wiring diagrams over the last couple of nights. I’m hoping someone might be able to help me with the one thing I’m stuck on.

 

On the Mk2 2010 onwards the fuel pump and gauge goes to a fuel pump control unit which for the life of me I can’t find in zap7 or anywhere else.

 

D8EB785F-651B-4D09-91FE-85E8E61DD713.thumb.png.f61a1208976c3dcbee9ae3893d2bfb09.png 

 

Can anyone tell me where it would be or point me to a part number? Or if I’m being dense explain it to me lol

  • Sponsor

Physically, located on top of tank. I quote:

1.21 Fuel pump control unit -J538-
1.21.1 Fitting location:
Under the right rear bench seat, on the fuel delivery unit

 

All the fitting locations are right at the end of the wiring pdfs.

 

In 7zap/ETKA, electrical section, searched the word fuel, got this:

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2011-697/9/919-919030/

  • Author

Well I just look thick as now especially since I looked at that several times last night haha 

  • Sponsor

Ctrl-F is your friend. 🙂

It’s just a fancy relay really, not that much to it. 

  • Author

I thought it was basically a relay I just couldn’t find it last night and was starting to think it was built into the pump. 😰lol

 

So with this I believe the only wiring I need to address is to add two additional wires to the pre cat lamber sensor but I’ll probably just replace the MK1 connector with a MK2 and run the additional wires round the loom to keep it looking as original as possible.

 

Then the fuel pump I need to get the feed from the gauge before it goes to the fuel pressure control unit for the MK1 gauge cluster so the gauge still works, the existing wire will be okay for that. I’ll then need to run the wire to connect the pressure control unit to the ECU and the earth cable as well.

 

other than that I think I just need to check the fuse connections and earths and I don’t think there is actually going to be much more wiring to plan other than what wire goes to what pin on the ECU.

  • Author

Hi guys hoping you can lend me your expanse of knowledge again and confirm a couple of things for me.

 

At this point I have checked and triple checked the connections to the CBZ ECU from the MK1 interior loom and everything should work just fine. There are a few connections the ECU wants like air conditioning but the MK1 doesn’t run it through the ECU so that’s fine or CSS which the MK1 doesn’t have fitted anyway.

 

The T14a connector on both the BMD loom and CBZ has connections going to the interior fuse box. Some of the BMD connections like the injectors aren’t in the CBZ connections so if I change the fuse in the box to the right amp I should be able to use that connection for one of the CBZ connections that goes straight to the fuse box right?

 

Also the unassigned fuses in the fuse box I should be able to run any additional connections to these fuse them and they should be fine right? I mean they will already have power to them won’t they? 

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi guys, first I wanted to say thank you to everyone that has given me advice on this but I won’t doing for the simple reason that apparently no one can disable the immobiliser on the ECU for the CBZ engines.

 

I am hoping with all you knowledge that someone might be able to tell me how difficult it is to drop a bjx or agu in instead? @Tech1e I’ve seen your thread and you didn’t have to mess with the interior loom why was that? 

 

Thanks again everyone, I do want to get an engine swap done as I think this car just deserves more. 

I didn’t mess with interior loom as I wanted to keep the internals as it. I just added the bits I needed to and repinned a few differences between the two looms 

  • Author

So is it as simple as getting a 1.8t + gearbox make sure I’ve got the right mounts, engine wiring add the wiring needed and ECU then just swap? 

 

So did your interior loom plug straight into the ECU without messing with the wiring? 

No it’s not that simple, I had a lot of wiring to go through. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.