I have a 2011 Octavia vRS Petrol.  2.0TSI (CCZ) and have had the P0441 Incorrect Flow (EVAP Emission Control Sys) issue.

So I ordered a new N80 purge valve.  I was expecting it to be just a replacement valve (a hose connection at each end, and a single electrical connection).  
I quoted the part number off the old item to the dealer 06H 906 517 H but they had trouble finding it.  They came back to me with a different part number 06J 133 781 CE which is the valve plus a number of hoses attached.  See image below.

Two of the hoses connect underneath the inlet manifold and what I thought was going to be a trivial job now looks much more involved.  
The second (middle) hose just looks wrong when I held it up against an old inlet manifold I had in the garage.

So I have a few questions:
1) Does this look like the right part?
2) If it is right, then is it just a case of removing the throttle body below the manifold to get access to the relevant hoses?
3) Do I need to do a VCDS alignment of the throttle body afterwards?

I’m hoping someone can advise me if I’m on the right tracks here.

Thanks
Stuart

 

Can you call another skoda dealer or tps centre and just quote your car details and ask for the evap purge and see if it is what you have been provided?  If the pipework does not fit / have the same connections it seems unlikely to be the correct part. Is there a part number stamped on just the purge vale?

 

If it is the correct valve, I suppose you could try to remove the hoses from the new valve and plumb into existing? 

 

PS Bosch:  0 280 142 446

Maybe an equivalanet it just lists 06H 906 517 no revision code.

 

 

Edited 24 August, 20196 yr by TheClient

OK. So checked mine. My car is same model and year. And Mine has also 06H 906 517 H fitted.  From what I can see on the first run of pipe of your replacement set seems to mirror what is in mine. I can't see the remaining hoses without some disassembly. 

 

The mk6 GTI shares the same engine.  This thread (from the US) confirms exactly what you have been told.  https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96166

 

Also confirms it can be done without removing the IM but it is fiddly.

 

How much difference there could be with this hose set and N80 versus the many individual N80 PV replacements and OEM parts I do not know.

 

Thanks for your reply @TheClient

I just happened to be passing a Skoda dealer when I was down in the New Forest this morning so I popped in and they confirmed that the part I have is the correct one.

The new valve itself has the same number with a different suffix - 06H 906 517 AA.  I bet you have to buy the whole hose assembly like I have.

 

Glad I have the right part but I feel slightly sickened having forked out £650 earlier this year the have the manifold replaced due to the flap position sensor issues.  This EVAP valve could have been replaced at that point at zero labour cost.  Oh well....

 

Thanks for your help.

I'm sure you know this, but the general rule with suffix codes is go for the same as fitted or later. AA is later than H. But there are exceptions where some revisions suit some manufacture periods and later revisions other periods and multiple suffix versions remain current. Some with access to part catalogues can drill into the detail. .

@g60stu did you manage to get this replaced? What was the outcome? Did you need to remove anything?

I have the part, but have not fitted it. I always bought it on the presumption it would be a quick “no brainer” job.

I now know it’ll be a pain to fit so I’ll probably wait until I really really need to do it.

I had no EML but I haven’t checked for codes with VCDS for a few months. And the car runs fine. 

 

Sorry, that’s not much help to you. 

Yes. If you do some googling. One option is to just replace the valve not the hose set with check valves. Obviously, if there was a problem with a check valve it wouldn't solve it but more likely to be the n80 itself.

 

I also saw a video with replacement of hose set by removing throttle body and cooling fans but it was a pain... 

I'll make sure the fuel cap is closed properly and start with a replacement fuel cap first.
Valve probably does need replacement as a touch over 118k miles at the moment.

 

Edit: I looked at the fuel cap, rubber is degraded and cracked so probably not forming a proper seal at the moment.

Edited 29 October, 20196 yr by bspman

8 hours ago, g60stu said:

I have the part, but have not fitted it. I always bought it on the presumption it would be a quick “no brainer” job.

I now know it’ll be a pain to fit so I’ll probably wait until I really really need to do it.

I had no EML but I haven’t checked for codes with VCDS for a few months. And the car runs fine. 

 

Sorry, that’s not much help to you. 

 

Still good to know as a follow up what has/hasn't happened. Thanks for getting back to us

Out of interest and completing thread info how much is the complete hose set. I’m guessing £70-80?

I paid about £61. That was with 5% discount I think. 

How easy is the N80 to replace? I’ve got the same P0441 code. Just ordered the valve and the seen this thread. Didn’t realise I needed the hoses as well. Would it be worth changing the charcoal canister first?

I did fuel cap and charcoal canister. The charcoal canister replacement hasn't helped in my case and I will be in need of a new n80.

 

Not got the money to spare at the moment so holding fire until the intake manifold needs replacement.

Ah right I see. Where did you get the canister from? I've got one from a brakers on ebay but the CEL light has gone out by itself but the code is still there. Hoping this means it's sorted. Fuel cap looks fine and tightens up right. 

 

Also do you know where to get an N80 valve? From what I can tell we need to get the one with the hoses attached for the intake manifold but I can not for the life of me find one.

10 hours ago, MetalMedic said:

Ah right I see. Where did you get the canister from? I've got one from a brakers on ebay but the CEL light has gone out by itself but the code is still there. Hoping this means it's sorted. Fuel cap looks fine and tightens up right. 

 

Also do you know where to get an N80 valve? From what I can tell we need to get the one with the hoses attached for the intake manifold but I can not for the life of me find one.

What year is your vRS? If it is a mk2FL vRS petrol the complete evap n80 and hose assembly part number is listed in the opening post.

 

You can also consider a ghetto repair by sourcing the n80 stand alone and joining the existing pipework with removing the inlet manifold and without replacing all the hoses and check valve.  You need to try to cross reference to the stand alone N80 part number and check visually to match.

Hi, mine is a FL petrol. Missed the part number above but now you mentioned it I've seen it. Thanks for that. Managed to find the N80 valve on its own from autodoc. Just seems like a bit of effort and I'm not very confident with mechanical maintenance haha. But for now the light has gone out, cleared the code so see how it goes. Canister is on its way. Hopfully that will be the end of it

On 18/04/2020 at 21:16, MetalMedic said:

Ah right I see. Where did you get the canister from? I've got one from a brakers on ebay but the CEL light has gone out by itself but the code is still there. Hoping this means it's sorted. Fuel cap looks fine and tightens up right. 

 

Also do you know where to get an N80 valve? From what I can tell we need to get the one with the hoses attached for the intake manifold but I can not for the life of me find one.

I got mine from TPS as it was on the way back from dropping daughter at school. 

 

You can order genuine parts from here and I generally do like 90% of the time. Local TPS just happened to have the canister in stock and it was a 5 min job to swap. 
 

 

I have no CEL on mine but do get a code.

 

23 hours ago, MetalMedic said:

Hi, mine is a FL petrol. Missed the part number above but now you mentioned it I've seen it. Thanks for that. Managed to find the N80 valve on its own from autodoc. Just seems like a bit of effort and I'm not very confident with mechanical maintenance haha. But for now the light has gone out, cleared the code so see how it goes. Canister is on its way. Hopfully that will be the end of it

 

A length of rubber hose (correct diameter), a knife, a small pipe cutter and some jubilee clips is all you're going to need if you want to replace in situ without doing the whole pipe assembly but hopefully that's all.

Thanks for the replies. Going to see how it goes. Hopfully it's sorted now but if not you guys have helped me out a lot. Cheers folks! 

Do keep us updated on how you get on.